Desolation Wilderness Fishing Update 1 (1995)
Well, a number of things have happened since the Desolation Wilderness Fishing Guide was published. First, The US Forest Service and the California Department of Fish and Game are cooperating on the management of fishing -- including the study of Yellow-Legged Mountain Frogs. A side-effect of the frog studies has been accumulation of a lot of information about the status of fish in the Desolation. In the future certain areas of the Desolation will be set aside for the study of frogs and a number of areas will be maintained as they have in the past as planted and wild trout fisheries. Second, I have decided to let loose a few pieces of information not in the original guide.
One lake I kept off the map is probably safe to publicize -- Lake No. 3. It turns out that the State Trout (the Golden) can reproduce in the smallest of inlet or outlet streams. Before I published the guide I visited this lake during the drought years in early spring when rainbows and goldens spawn. Well, there were a number of spawners in the outlet as well as in little snowmelt streams. If you go downstream from the lake there are a lot of small fish. This stream goes for miles through desolate country and probably has fish in pools. Now, one other thing that is interesting about this lake is that according to Wood (p. 148) there is a cross-country route across the saddle between Red and Silver Peaks that links Lake No. 3 with the Leland Lakes (more goldens). Oh, and one thing I almost forgot was the DFG found some 2 lb. brookies in Lake No. 5. I haven't gotten one yet. And also, there is a lake that had some "Inadvertent" DFG plants 1.5 miles due west of Onion Flat (Rubicon Reservoir) and almost 2.0 miles NNE of Highland Lake. This lake will not be planted again, but I my last journey up there I heard reports of some 16 year old anglers that they caught "lots of 15" rainbows" there........
Last fall I took a long one-day hike up to Triangle Lake from Lily Lake -- and continued on with help from Wood's guide cross-country to Heather Lake. Triangle has lots of very pretty Eagle Lake put and grow rainbows. It gets busy there at times and people should know how to get to Lost Lake (you need a map-- a well-named lake). The best way is described in Wood's old guide: just when the trail to triangle makes its final descent to the lake, do not descend but follow the granite over to your left. Taking the "Sierra Sidewalk" gets you there easily with a map as long as you pretty much do not change altitude. Going down to Triangle and up the outlet of Lost Lake is much harder. In any case, Lost has many brookies that need culling so that we get some up to size. It has also gotten golden plants but I have never seen one there.
At Heather I confirmed a few things: Heather is well-known for large browns. Problem is finding them. Thing is that every afternoon there is a good wind from the northwest across the lake. This brings in a lot of insects and terrestrials. The best place to find these insects is on the southeast shore (where they are blown by the wind across the lake). On this particular lake you actually sit at a high point on the southeast shore and watch for fish. Also you can use streamers for the large brookies that are also found in this area. One last thing is that there is a channel right at the outlet with another observation point on the opposite side from the trail (as well as from the trail). Large fish move up and down this channel looking for the red-side minnows on which they feed. I have yet to fully explore the inlet area of the water that comes in from Jack's Peak -- rather swampy but landed a nice fish from the boulder field on the other side of the swamp from the trail. See map:

One more lake that I put on the map in some more detail is Top Lake. This lake has some very large brookies. It also received golden plants and according to recent a DFG survey they survive. I have been pretty skeptical of this in the past -- but I guess they have found them alive there. In my recollection of the lake there is a granite shoulder that provides casting access to its lower portion where the large brookies are. On calm days in early and late season the will be seen leisurely taking midges.
A negative side of publicizing good spots is that they can suffer. At my last trip to Susie Lake I got skunked at my sure-shot entrance spring noted in the guide. There should have been fish there. Hope all the big ones have not been cleaned out -- I doubt it.
Desolation Wilderness Fishing Update 2 (1996)
The information is in from the latest DFG/USFS trip into the desolation. Thanks to book purchases we were able to fund the packers to the tune of $450 to help bring the crew in. Well, what kind of information did they come up with this year?
They camped at Susie Lake to examine a region on the eastern side of the Wilderness for the first time. As I had the feeling from my trip to the area last year, Susie Lake has had its brookie population stunted. They found no fish over 12". This is down substantially from past findings of fish above 16". Stafford Lehr DFG biologist recommends fishing Susie heavily. "... the more fish taken the better especially those in the range from 8 to 10 inches. We have found that by cropping the population of medium sized fish the larger ones will do better on the numerous forage fish (Lahontan redsides)."
The good news is that Heather is still packed with large fish up to 3 lbs. These fish are tougher to get as I have said in the past, but there are large brookies and browns to be had. One of the biggest problems for flyfishers remains the difficulty of access with a float tube so I think these fish will probably be safe. They also looked into LeConte, the lake above the inlet to Heather, and found medium sized brookies and rainbows. Jabu, despite my lack of success there in the past still has medium sized goldens.
Another piece of good news is that Half Moon Lake has a population of large brookies. The difficulty with this lake is that it has large shallow edges with a deeper center. The fish are not at the edges but along the drop offs into the deeper water- usually some 100' offshore as I recall. This is only going to be accessible by float tube- but I would suspect that these fish would be rather naive. Given the difficulty of reaching them, this resource should be safe.
Another lake surveyed was Gilmore. According to the reports they found a lot of rather stunted (eel-like) 18" lake trout. There were few of other species. Others have reported large fish out of this lake in the past but the survey could not verify any bigger ones. Reports from anyone who fishes the lake would be appreciated. I would remind readers of the direct approach to this lake mentioned in my book and in detail in Wood's Guide. Stafford still believes there are large fish here best caught with sink-tip lines and minnow immitations off float tubes.
On my own trips, we went up to Floating Island Lake and Cathedral and did very well in October. The goldens in Cathedral were taking terrestrials on the surface and scuds on a sink-tip. Fish were up to 10". These fish are very hard to catch except in the fall. It seems they become easier to catch just as the lakes start to ice-up and this of course is right when we get our first snow and the trails become impassable. There were also a lot of stunted brookies in Floating Island Lake. This was not a good year for the fish with a short growing season due to the harsh winter last year. This is a lake to hit and reduce the population of smaller fish. Many fish are found near the inlet area- largest was 13". The fish also cruise the shore across from where the trail comes next to the lake. There were a ton of small fish in the center of the lake. This lake is only awkwardly fishable with a flyrod without a tube. Since many fish are near the edge it's better to be in the middle and cast towards the edge. Nonetheless, you can do well roll-casting off the shore. If you do not take a tube, watch-out for the marshy edges near the inlet as you'll get your feet wet.

Finally, I did my own scouting about in the Rubicon River area above the Reservoir in September. Flows were down to a trickle in the stream but it was still quite pretty especially when it comes over granite slabs in many places. Caught a number of rainbow-golden hybrids up to 12" in the river's pools. The goldens drop down from Clyde Lake and the rainbows move up from the reservoir. I also fished the Reservoir but did not do well. This place is probably better suited for spin equipment. I saw just one large fish in the inlet area- there may be more when flows are higher- a friend went in the following week and the fish was still there and he landed it. Next time I'm going to bring a small inflatable boat that I got at a sale from Orvis. Weighs less that a tube with all its requirements, e.g. fins waders etc. Tune in next year.
Desolation Wilderness Fishing Update 3 (1997)
The information is in from the latest DFG/USFS trip into the desolation: "We (Stafford Lehr et al.) surveyed lakes in the Meeks Drainage: Lake Genevieve, Crag Lake, Hidden Lake, Shadow, Stony Ridge, and Rubicon Lake. Genevieve, and Crag had good sized (some in the 14 to 15 inch range) RT's, BN's, and BK's and believe it or not Lahontan Cutthroats (don't know how they got there). Forage is primarily redsides, tui chubs and speckled dace along with the assortment of small caddis and midges. The BN's and RT's are self sustaining. Hidden had good sized RT's and CT's. Shadow had BK's but not much size. Stony Ridge had good sized LT and RT's (one RT exceeded 3lbs). Forage for the larger fish are the numerous non-game fish mentioned above. Rubicon Lake had the typical assortment of BK's. I recommend for all of the lakes with larger fish that a minnow pattern, sinking line stripped slowly along."
Also have two reliable reports that Lower Phipp's Lake is fishless. Too shallow. Two parties have suffered the bushwack in there and cannot confirm earlier stories of lunker brookies- maybe winter kill got them as the lake is very shallow.
Finally, in mid-September took an overnight to the Velmas. I tested the theory of Heather Lake out, i.e. that the wind blows the terrestrials over to the downwind side of the lake. To make a long story short, there are a number of outcroppings of large rocks on the northeast side Middle Velma. There were several rainbows crusing and I landed some 14"-16" on hoppers. I'll not be too specific on the spot, but theory is more important than location -- remember the wind can shift.
Desolation Wilderness Fishing Update 4 (1998)
Well, given the snow cover last season, I only manager one trip to the backcountry and no new ground covered. However, John and Judy Wakabayshi made it back to Gilmore Lake. As you can see from the photo below, the Lake Trout are alive and well. This looks like a good place to go for dinner- according to DFG, there are lots of these fish in the lake and some are getting stunted, hence does not hurt to take a few out. This one, though looks anything but stunted. John has now set up a web site with more info.

Hopefully, next year I'll get up to Gilmore to check these fish out, but I have been spending a lot of time on the Emigrant Wilderness issues. Check out that site to find out more: Emigrant Wilderness
Desolation Wilderness Fishing Update 5 (1999)
Seems like I just do not get back into the backcountry as much as I used to and have been relying on reports via e-mail for updates. Bottom line is that there is a lot of good fishing going on. Some of the lakes that have appeared outstanding recently are Heather and Gilmore for larger fish. Several reports of large browns being taken from Heather including a near miss on a 24" specimen. Lyons Creek on the west side seems to be repopulating after losses during the drought years. I have taken a number of nice brookies out of Floating Island but Catherdral has seemed fishless for a couple years. I have heard negative reports about Susie Lake that I had so highly recommended in the book. Had a nice report about fishing down the Rubicon from Clyde Lake as unchanged to better conditions than I have seen in the past.
Desolation Wilderness Fishing Update 6 (2000)
Well, the Wakabayshis have done it again. Clearly this is the largest fish I have heard in recent history coming out of the Desolation. Measured at 32" with 18" girth my formula comes out with a 12-13 pound fish. So, Gilmore Lake strikes again. The fish may be as much as 20 years old. Also important news from John is that the shortcut in Wood's guide seems to be operational and with good ducking of the trail after you get to the rim. I went up there with a fish finder and discovered that the lake is at least 195' deep, but did not have John's success. I think that I need to bring my shooting heads up there now. BTW, a DFG gillnetting party some years ago found a 10 pound Brown in the Lake also. John still has a web site with more info.

Desolation Wilderness Fishing Update 7 (2001)
Another positive report on Gilmore Lake. I'm going back this year for revenge:
I just returned from Gilmore lake yesterday after spending two nights up there. The first day we got rain and hail which was kind of unusual. We had the whole lake to ourselves except for a few day hikers. That day I fished the north side of the lake using a Z-ray and got a few strikes from rainbows but did not hook anything. After losing my only two Z-rays and a Little Cleo spoon, I tried a Kastmaster. On about the third cast I caught a 14 inch Lake Trout. On the next cast I got another bite from a larger fish in the 20 inch range. The water was as smooth as glass so I could see all the strikes. Then the cast after this I lost the lure. The next day I tried the same spot but was forced to use a larger ½ ounce Pixie spoon. No Lake Trout were interested, but I did manage to hook a 12 inch rainbow. The water was again very calm and trout were rising to an insect hatch in very shallow water. I decided to head back to the west shore and try for the rising rainbows. Some of the fish were literally right against the shore in only inches of water. I caught one rainbow that was about 12-14 inches and hooked and lost other rainbows and brook trout. I was using an 1/8 ounce Panther Martin. I was getting tons of follows but the fish were a little hesitant to strike. I wish I had brought my fly rod. I feel I probably could have hooked a higher percentage of the fish. The fish continued feeding until about noon. The last day we were there it was sunny and breezy. No trout were rising and again I had no luck with my larger Pixie Spoons. It was a fun trip and I learned a little more about fishing the lake. Next time I?ll be sure to bring my fly rod and more silver ¼ ounce Kastmasters. I appreciate all the help and advice you?ve given. I had a great time and I look forward to going back.
Thanks,
Adam
Desolation Wilderness Fishing Update 8 (2002)
From John Wakabayashi:
I just thought I'd pass along a summary of some of the reports I've heard from Desolation this year to date. As relayed in an earlier email, I had a good trip catching mackinaw (14 to 17-1/2 inches) out of Gilmore and my buddies caught two rainbows (one a 15-incher) and a brookie between them. I subsequently had other reports from Gilmore including one from one of my hiking buddies, Cliff Riebe (who caught a rainbow and brookie on the first trip) who returned to Gilmore on a dayhike (early August) and was shut out, but lost a 2 foot or better fish while trying to land it. Earlier, in June, Blake Merwin reported catching a fat 16 inch brookie out of Floating Island Lake. He said he saw only a few big fish cruising in the lake. I would guess this may be partly the result of the air dropping moratorium, since Floating Island was regularly dropped with brookies in the past. (Am Checking on this JY- caught some nice fish myself there- was OK but slightly slower than usual Oct 2003)
I also had a report of huge success earlier in the year from Jeff Fisher for rainbows and brookies from Lower Velma that reached 16 inches. This was one of the most spectacular reports I've ever heard. Jeff caught more in one afternoon than Judy and I caught collectively in three days of fishing, spanning a backpacking trip and a dayhike in 1994 and 2001, respectively. He also did this on a day when he had earlier hiked to Dicks and Fontanilis (small brookies in the former, nothing going on in the latter). Jeff also caught a big rainbow (15") and a nice mack (18-19") out of Gilmore. He found "a few small brookies" in Half Moon, and surprisingly found Alta Morris "loaded" with "feisty" brookies that ran to 13 inches. How quickly things can change up there. Another guy visited Grass and Susie and reported catching brookies running 8 to 12 inches, with the larger ones coming from Grass.
I just received a report from my friend Cliff who a few days ago (in early September) fished Susie, Heather, Aloha and Lake of the Woods. They struck out at the latter two. Cliff's friend caught a 10 inch brookie out of Susie and he caught a 12-inch and a 14-inch brookie out of Heather. A bit later Cliff dayhiked to Eagle Lake and caught two nice browns, 12 and 13 inches, respectively. I've never fished Eagle very seriously (not seriously enough to catch anything), but I remember seeing brown fry in the stream above the lake when doing an ill advised bushwhack with Judy down from Lower Velma (never again). In any case it is interesting to hear of browns in this otherwise rainbow fishery.
Desolation Wilderness Fishing Update 9 (2003)
Well, from the lack of updates here I guess you can see I am not getting in a lot of fishing. Fact is, I have been fishing a lot elsewhere anddoing a lot of Conservation work for CalTrout. I have not gotten a lot of useful reports either. However, John Wakabashi has gotten reports and he says it is Ok to list them here:
Lyons Lake nice brookies to 14".
Three different Gilmore accounts all of which report good fishing for Macks, most of which are in the 12-16" range. This is promising because the mackinaw fishing seems to be pretty consistent in quantity and size even though they haven't been air dropped for several years.
A glowing report from Lower Velma (rainbows 14-15", brookies 10-14" and a >18" brown) from 4th of July weekend,
A report of a 20.5" brown from Heather along with two 12" brookies.
This is the information I have from DFG on planting prospects:
We are going to be putting some back on this next year. They will most likely be in the Meeks Creek and Glen Alpine Cr. drainages. Most if not all in the Rubicon and Pyramid Creek drainages will not be planted due to frogs. Some over in the Silver Creek and SF Rubicon drainages may resume. We have to put togather basin management strategies that will lay out the groundwork and data.
Desolation Wilderness Fishing Update 10 (2004)
Finally have a bit of news to report of the situation with the frogs and fish up in the Desolation. The good news is there are good populations of frogs up there. The bad news is that you cannot plant fish nowadays anywhere near the frogs. The hints above now look like the following: First of all, there has been no planting since 2000. Second, looks like next year (2005) 6-12 lakes on the East Side of the Desolation, i.e. Meeks Creek, Eagle Creek and Glen Alpine drainages may get stocked. Since we have lost a number of Golden Trout Lakes, such as Leland Lakes and Clyde, priority will go to stocking goldens. The two that are on top of the list are Cathedral and Kalmia. Despite all this, my understanding is that Tamarack has continued to be stocked, but that may be the only one. I hope that Middle Velma will be on the list. I suspect that there are still fish in there that are now 4 years old and probably rather large. The other Velma's are fully self-sustaining.
It turns out that even the rainbows may be able to do some small scale spawning in many of the lakes so it is not clear how badly the populations have been affected by this lack of plants. It would be nice to see some reports of what people are finding up there and I will post it here.
Desolation Wilderness Fishing Update 11 (2005)
Well, as of yet I have no news on the return on any plants to the Desolation, however, I do have another excellent report from John Wakabayshi:
Here's some observations from my July 8-11 largely off trail NW Desolation backpack. There may be some points of concern (about fish populations), as you will see from this account.
This was a loop trip out of Van Vleck. The first lake we visited (Friday July 8), Shadow showed no sign of life except for a single rise. I had no success on about 10 casts. I then moved to Huth Lake and quickly caught 4 brookies running 8-9" even though the lake appeared at first glance to be lifeless (no rises or fish seen in outlet). I saw some that may have reached 11", and had one of these larger ones on. Based on the level of activity (strikes on about every other cast), I'd say there are quite a few brookies here. We then climbed over the N. shoulder of Tells Peak to Highland Lake.
The cross country route over the north shoulder of Tells Peak was surprisingly easy because we didn't encounter any brush (that I had anticipated) and it really was not all that steep. The decent to Highland was nearly 100% snow and easy. Highland was still 10-20% frozen (inlet end) and we didn't see any sign of life that evening, nor did my retrieves result in either trailer or strike. The next morning (Saturday, July 9) I fished the lake again and still didn't see a fish or a rise until a cast into a cove resulted in a strong 15" rainbow. I also had three or four possible fish on (deep retrieves and gradual takes, so this is iffy), and one strike so violent it knocked the pole from my hand. I saw a group of six rainbows swim by, all of which ranged between about 13 and 16". I also saw a 10" rainbow sunning itself in a cove. Otherwise the fish of Highland didn't seem to be very active; we didn't see a single rise that morning.
We left Highland at noon and hiked to Zitella. The "Highland trail" shown on the map has long ceased to exist, although in these conditions, with the large amount of snow, whether or not a trail existed was a moot point (JY's note: There is an old sign there). I didn't fish Zitella, but did fish Horseshoe, which showed no sign of life and nothing hit in about 15 casts. We then hiked to McConnell, and I didn't see any fish in the shallows or the channels nor did I get any response to several casts. We then headed past the 4Q Lakes, avoiding them because the place looked like a mosquito hell and because it was fairly late.
On Sunday (July 10) we ascended from our camp to cross another spur then contoured around the base of a ridge to Lake Schmidell. This deep lake, like the others we had visited thus far, showed no outward signs of life:
no rises, no fish seen swimming around, and no fish in the outlet stream. In contrast to the lifeless appearance of the lake, bottom-hugging retrieves in deep water (plenty of abrupt dropoffs here) resulted in a strike or fish on nearly every cast. The 17 brookies I caught ran 8-11" with most being about 9".
We left Schmidell at about noon and hiked on nearly continuous snow to a pass that leads to Top Lake (this follows the route of the Red Peak stock trail at this point totally buried under snow). A steep descent over snow, slabs, and grass brought us to Top Lake, which also showed no outward signs of life. A closer inspection revealed a few small fish in the terraced set of ponds above the lake as well as a few fish in the surprisingly deep (looked 4' deep or more) undercut inlet stream. It took many casts to produce results but eventually I landed a 15-1/2 and 15" brookie and lost another of the same size. I also saw another pair of fish in the same size range.
On Monday (July 11) we descended to Lawrence Lake. We saw some fish in the outlet, but observed no rises or cruising fish in the still lake. I had a pair of monster brookie trailers (3lbs +) on one cast, but otherwise the only other fish I spotted was a huge fish that displaced a large amount of water on the only rise seen in 2 hours at the lake.
We then hiked to nearby Lost Lake, where Judy and I had enjoyed a fine day of big brookie fishing for plump 14-15 inchers in October 1998. I saw no sign of life and struck out in 15 casts. We hiked by No.5 and I had already decided not to invest any effort unless I saw a fish or rise. I saw neither, but took two token (unsucessful) casts anyway. We then tromped through snow and dropped the packs to dayhike up to No.3. My first cast resulted in a 10" trailer and my third resulted in a 10" golden that I lost as I hoisted it up onto a snowbank. This woodland lake was largely rimmed with snowbanks and hadn't been thawed for long. The initial success suggested that this might be the one lake other than Schmidell where the residents had actually awakened from their winter mode. Apparently not. I didn't get another strike or trailer. I saw lots of fish near the inlet where some formed a feeding line but weren't exhibiting spawning behavior. At the outlet I saw a number of goldens up to about 14" engaged in courtship. Although it didn't give up any fish to me, this lake looks in good shape.
We then hiked back to Van Vleck on the Red Peak trail.
These observations bring up a concern. Brookies are so notorious for overpopulating some waters with natural reproduction, but their spawning capability seems limited, at best, in shallow, muddy-loggy bottomed lakes. Lakes of this type that received regular fingerling allotments in the past seemed to have comparatively low density populations with large fish (indicating a lack of additional fish from natural reproduction). There are quite a few premium big brookie lakes in and around Desolation. I hope we won't lose most of them if they are not air dropped again.
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