March 10-11th 2007 - Valley
Strikingly beautiful weekend in the Valley. Rolled up with Wyatt, Polly, Abeles, and Colin. Colin's first bigboy weekend in the Valley!
Saturday: Wyatt took Polly and I on a tour of the Finger Lickin' crag, squirreled away somewhere between Arch Rock and the Cookie. I was allowed the sharp end on Jaw Bone, Snatch Power, and Petty Larceny to get things started, all of which went well. We then wandered up to the namesake pitch Finger Lickin', a striking hands to fingers splitter that Wyatt and I both led. Reid missed a star on that one. Then we did Pinky Paralysis, with Wyatt taking the burly first pitch, and both he and I having a go at the business 2nd pitch, which I was happy to get on the first go.
Wyatt on Finger Lickin:
Ran into Ron and Judd in el cap meadow that evening. Retired to the gravel pit.
Sunday: Cookie cliff. Polly started us off with an almost clean lead of Catchy, which she will definitely get next time. Then the plan was to explore some of the many-starred obscurities on the upper right side of the Cookie (Shortcake, Ramp of Deception), but the upper pitches of the Enigma were pretty soggy, so Wyatt had a go at the Enema, which he made look extremely casual on lead. The same could not be said of either me or Polly on follow.
We then headed over to the left side of the Cookie, where Polly styled Outer Limits on lead, and we watched Rob Miller mosey up Cookie Monster. Then I had a go at Red Zinger, and took two falls past the thin crux. That thing is really really good. Polly and Wyatt lapped it, then we headed out to meet Adam and Colin, who had mini-epiced from lack of proper gear on The Surprise. Nice dinner at Ramon's Taco Truck in Planada.
Polly on Outer Limits:
