from supertopo.com

Re: Bolts on El cap  Sep 12, 2006, 10:30pm PST  
Author:
The Warbler  (Kevin Worrall)

Regarding Free Blast- at the belay after a spontaneous FFA of the first pitch
of the nose with Largo (?) I noticed the possibility of a slab traverse left
joining the Salathe just above the roof. I was psyched because at the time the
roof was an intimidating prospect to free, and this looked like a way to reach
Mammoth w/o aid.

I returned with Mike Graham, and a bolt kit. Mike led the traverse in the style
of the day, with minimal holes (2, I think) and slab moves that explored the
outer limits of our EBs. I remember it being some of the thinnest slab climbing
I had ever barely done and it was the hardest climbing we encountered that day.

After joining "the greatest rock climb in the world" (RR) the climbing went
easily free until the Robbins bolt ladder, virtually the only bolts on his
proud line. Remember- this was not long after Royal declared Harding's Wall of
the Early Morning Light to have unnecessary bolts and chopped half his route.
I took the lead, passed 2 or 3 bolts on the diagonal ladder and when the holds
thinned I chose an obvious weakness leading right to a mantle. After the mantle
I placed one bolt to protect 5.10 moves up to the last bolts of RR's aid
ladder. Our variation probably omitted all but 3 original bolts.

As I waited under the Half Dollar for Mike to follow the pitch I began to
wonder why a slab climbing ace like him was taking so long on the easy ground.
The reason was clear when a grinning Mike appeared swinging a sling full of
hangers and bolts. Every bolt we didn't need for our free climb. 

We didn't discuss doing it, on the spur of the moment Mike decided he wanted to
make a statement. Same reason anyone chops. My concern was that the parties to
come in Robbins boots, w/o chalk, would do whatever they could to pass the
section and the rock would suffer. I have never been back to see what happened. 

Hey Werner- read my lips (damn it was good to see you) you posted a while ago
that the Free Blast was doctored. ?! Are you talking Dr. Graham?, 'cause his
hammerwork on the bolt ladder was the only medicine dispensed on our ascent.