BRAVE NEW WORLD
(originally appeared in Mountain #31, 1973)
Climbers in Yosemite Valley, until recently engrossed in the complexities of aid-climbing on the big walls, are now concentrating on short free climbs, and working hard to limit the use of pitons. Here Jim Bridwell, a leading figure in this free-climbing renaissance, reports on the new mood that grips the valley.
The general concept of climbing in Yosemite is centred on the mystique
of Big Walls. However, the glorious sweeping plains of sunlit granite
that capture the imagination of the primary climbing urge have lost
their lustrous aura. Advancements in equipment and, more precisely,
in knowledge have stripped the mystery shrouding the 'Big Walls',
laying bare the boring and laborious logistics and the stifling
repetition and tedium of placing one gadget after another into begruding
cracks. In more recent years an ever-growing vanguard of imaginative
and progressive young climbers has been fostering a fast-moving
renaissance of Yosemite free-climbing. Refined techniques, strength
training, equipment improvements and purification of ethics have led
to amazing new routes. Yesterday's aid climb is today's standard free
climb. The pressure of the ever-evolving spirit within has started to
be felt and is now expressing itself in the idealism of imaginative
new routes, in the beauty of control of mind, and the precision of
movement which is required for the execution of these route.
Originally, free-climbing in Yosemite was not as important as
aid-climbing technology, for the major walls were unclimbed. The
evolution of climbing marched onward to the first prize and, once the
walls were mastered, the goal moved on toward refinement.
Free-climbing was primarily a display of virtuousity. A master of
free-climbing was not held captive by the ball and chain of mechanical
reliance. The urge was to excel and consequently free-climbing began
to evolve.
What could be more exhilarating than climbing steep rock uninhibited
by aid gadgetry? Bouldering developed as a separate pastime with its
own unique challenges. Some climbers stopped climbing and took up
bouldering exclusively, while others used it to develop techniques for
harder free-climbing. Short, hard free climbs began to be made and
names such as Chuck Pratt, Frank Sacherer, Mark Powell, Bob Kamps,
Dave Rearick, and Royal Robbins soon moved into the limelight. Climbs
like Crack of Doom and Split Pinnacle Lieback had as much
prestige as The Nose or Half Dome ... interest started to grow.
Another, not so distinct, generation began to appear. 1964 started a
new era, with Frank Sacherer and Chuck Pratt leading the way. Routes
previously done with aid went free. One route after another fell to
the bold imagination of Sacherer and Pratt. Ethics started to change,
ideas and attitudes underwent reconsideration. More and more
possibilities were opened. After the ascent of Dihardral, with
its uncanny reaches round blind corners and its fingertip liebacks,
the word 'impossible' was used cautiously. A bold style evolved,
where aid slings and an extra rope were left in the camp. This
involved an attitude of commitment which increased the determination
of the attempt. A few younger climbers began to emerge after serving
an apprenticeship with the masters of the art. Their energy was added
and the brew thickened. Tom Higgins and Chris Fredricks were among
the young energy. They brought a few touches of their own to the
free-climbing boom. Higgins, a protege' of Bob Kamps, quickly became
a genius with tiny holds. Along with Kamps, he put up several tense
climbs on Glacier Point Apron, as well as eliminating the aid on the
Powell/Reed route on Middle Cathedral Rock.
At about this time physical training poked its magical head into the
Yosemite Scene. Frank Sacherer and Eric Beck started it by circuit
training in Berkeley and climbing at weekends. With this system they
turned out two masterpieces: the West Face of Sentinel (in one
day, and without Jumars), and the Direct North Buttress of
Middle Cathedral Rock - all free. On the latter they knocked out
eighty aid pins by intricate route-finding and masterful climbing.
This demonstrated the usefulness of strength training and opened doors
into the future. At this point Sacherer left the climbing scene and
bequeathed the raising of the standard to the younger breed of fast
developing disciples. This achievement, along with Chuck Pratt's,
marked the era between 1963 and 1965. Chuck's poise, natural ability
and control, along with Frank's brilliance, daring and vision,
earmarked climbing styles for those who followed.
Big walls were still foremost on the agenda for the majority of
climbers; such routes as the Sacherer Cracker, Left Side of the
Slack, Bridalveil East, Right Side of the Hourglass and the
strenuous, poorly protected Twilight Zone were left neglected
while the young gained confidence.
From 1966 to 1968 the free-climbing symphony had a few movements added
to it. Chris Fredrick's fierce route English Breakfast Crack,
repelled several attempts, while Lloyd Price added the
Vendetta, with its bold, unprotected off-width problem on the
second pitch. Pat Ament, a sensitive young climber from Boulder, made
an appearance and started some waves in the free-climbing sea. His
contributions included the Left Side of the Remnant and the
Centre of the Slack - all free - as well as the freeing of
Limbo Ledge. These were certainly demonstrations of expertise.
In 1968 Frank Sacherer's premonition that the Stove Legs on the
Nose of El Capitan would go free was realized by Jim Bridwell and Jim
Stanton. The Legs section is now done as a climb in itself. This bit
of the Nose is today one of the most sustained free climbs in the
country. The vertical lines of the cracks make it a most exhilarating
route to look at, as well as to climb. Every sort of problem is
encountered, from finger cracks to off-widths, with lie backs and
chimneys and a pendulum now and then for spice. The Legs are a true
challenge, even for the best free climbers.
1969 saw few new hard free routes, but many of the existing hard
problems were repeated. Beginning in 1970 the big boom of volcanic
free-climbing erupted in the Valley. Several young stars started to
shine: Mark Klemens, Barry Bates, Peter Haan, Jim Bridwell and Mead
Hargis were among those shining most brightly. Mark Klemens returned
to the Valley after a two year lay-off and like a lightning bolt
became the main motivating force of the year. The fact that he began
completely out of shape didn't seem to affect his smooth, controlled
style. As an opener, he pioneered Absolutely Free, a
respectable route with 5.10 fist and off-width jamming. New routes
were his 'bag', and he sacked New Dimensions as his next
prize. The climb is very sustained and consistently thin, a real test
of finger strength and technique. In the same season, Klemens mounted
two more virgin crack systems on Absolutely Free, plus routes
such as Gripper, Independence Pinnacle, and Henley Quits.
All of these were aesthetic as well as difficult. Barry Bates was
also developing quickly in 1970. After three years, his route on the
Centre of Independence will still send a thrill even through
those experienced at thin hand cracks.
At this stage the hydra of ethics and style began to show its many
heads. Fine points normally overlooked assumed importance. The
scruples of a first ascent have always been met either with criticism
or praise, and unwritten laws have gradually been formulated over the
years. But suddenly everything shifted into high gear. The resulting
pressure has been increasingly felt. Good new routes were, and are,
coveted and consequently kept secret from the waiting ambitions of
eager climbers.
From 1971 to 1972 some appalling new routes were conceived. These
initiated a new precedence in attitudes, techniques and equipment.
The eye saw lines that were only possible after certain specialised
strengths had been developed. A programme of progressively more
difficult and specialised climbs was devised to prepare for a specific
route. Esoteric exercises as well as unique boulder-ballet problems
now elaborated the training tables of the climbing athlete. Using
this system, many fine routes were composed on sight. Some of the
great problems of the past two years epitomize the best in Yosemite
climbing.
New Dimensions, originally done free by Barry Bates and Steve
Wunsch, was the first of these routes. Persistently difficult and
strenuous climbing leads to the final 5.11 finger-tip crack up a
leaning corner.
The Left Side of the Hourglass, a work of genius by Peter Haan,
remains one of the most respected leads of the day. One thinks of the
potential fifty-foot fall while leading the overhanging, 5.10
off-width crack after the undercling. This single lead, with its 5.10
hand crack to 5.10 undercling to a 5.10 off-width, all without resting
spots, makes the overall rating 5.11, and earmarks the accelerative
pitch - in imagination.
Cream is a fine demonstration of off-width art. The route was
improvised on sight, at the first attempt, by Mark Klemens. Mark is
known for his masterful control in off-width cracks. The climb is
strenuous and hard to protect. The feeling of security fleets from
reach on this lead, and you know why when the rope hangs out eight
feet at the bottom!
Several of the leads on Basket Case would constitute a crux on
most routes. At present the route stands as the most difficult
off-width problem in the country. Twenty-foot runouts on four-inch
5.11 cracks, and a 5.10, one-and-a-quarter-inch crack on the lower
pitch accent the variety of this climb. The first free ascent was
done by Mark Klemens and Jim Bridwell.
The 1973 season is continuing the acceleration of the standards. At
present styles and ethics have become homogenized into spartan
austerities. The new ideals have left certain free-climbing ethics
passe'. All-nut ascents, and 'flashing' a route (climbing on
first try) are more desirable than using pitons and sieging a pitch
yo-yo style. Today, few climbs (big walls excepted) are done
initially as aid climbs. New ethics now regard top-roping, or placing
protection on rappels, as highly undesirable. Unfortunately these
styles and ethics form the basis of insidious competition which can
prove quite abrasive to the psyche of the climbing community. Is it
art or insanity? Will the Law of Diminishing Returns bring a halt to
the present progress? How much working-out and how many
self-inflicted morals is a section of stone worth? Or does the
answer lie deeper, within the very soul of a man? Will the new
disciples tend to purify the lust for perfection of the whole being?
Maybe the competitive ego will be replaced with an open-minded
appreciation of form; ethics may fuse with aesthetics, making practice
rather than personality paramount.
The form is defined, the refinements infinite. The seeds are already
sprouting in many devoted practitioners of the art. When art becomes
a way of life, with religious significance to the individual, that art
gains a useful position in the cosmic scene. Aleister Crowley, with
his bold spiritualism, may have been a mutant prototype of a coming
generation of climbers. Speculations are many and varied, but the
future definitely holds exciting possibilities. The unusual situation
presented by Yosemite has developed a unique life. The concentrated,
difficult climbing and the easy-living environment are conducive to
long periods of stay in the Valley. All this has given rise to an
attitude of mind that believes nothing is impossible, and has made
Yosemite a climber's Utopia: the Mecca of rock-climbing in America
and maybe the world.
The Future
Yosemite is the home of most equipment advances in America and, for
that matter, the world. Throughout the valley's history there has
been a steady and rapid development of climbing regalia, from
Salathe's hard steel piton to the present polycentric nut and the even
more subtle nuances of chalk and tincture of benzoin. The farsighted
and creative activists in Yosemite have constantly been seeking the
paraphernalia manifesto. Ethics and aesthetics are an important
feature of this development, and vice versa. As new vistas are
opened, changes will inevitably occur. Moral decisions will have to
be made about certain technological innovations, such as chalk and
resin. I am not arguing either course, but if some development makes
one route easier to climb, it will make another route possible, and
for that route use of the innovation may be obligatory. That in turn
may make a two-sided coin: a nuisance to climbers and a boon for
manufacturers. As far as the consumption of products is concerned,
decreation will be the responsibility of the whole climbing community.
Ethics are also due for alterations. Top-roping will probably be used
not only for physical conditioning and confidence building, where
bouldering will not suffice, but also as a prerequisite in the case of
dangerous unprotected leads by the climbing avant-garde. We may
frown at these ideas, but they are likely to become selectively
assimilated as part of the future norm.
Difficult face-climbing routes are now being done with the aid of a
cliff-hanger in a shallow 'quick' bolt holde, which facilitates
placement of a regulation anchor. Eventually, aluminium allow dowels
may be used as protection, which would preclude the need for
cliff-hanger and protection procedures. Siege tactics are being used
and will continue to be used on new free routes. As ever more
improbable rock is attempted, these practices may become more
prevalent.
The decisions to be made in this respect will be the responsibility of
the new generation. These decisions will direct the future of the art
and determine whether or not it is to remain an art.
1973 Postscript
Activity reached a crescendo last spring, with feverish interest being
shown in the obvious but still neglected plum routes. The new routes
varied from all free grade 5's to 40-50ft. severe problems. A
generous list of relatively new names was associated with these first
ascents. Stoner's Highway, an all-free grade 5 on Middle
Cathedral Rock, climbed late this spring by Ed Barry, Peter
Barton, Kevin Norall [sic] and John Long, may well qualify as the most
sustained free climb in Yosemite and possibly the whole country. Six
of the eight pitches are 5.10, which puts the climb high on any
zealot's list.
Nearly half-a-dozen high quality grade 4's were added to the ever
growing list of new climbs. These included Wild Thing (5.10,
A1, two pendulums) by Ian Wade and Ray Jardine, Hot Line (5.10,
A1) by Mark Chapman and Jim Bridwell, Central Pillar of Frenzy
(5.9 or 5.10) by Roger Breedlove, Dale Bard, Ed Barry and Jim
Bridwell, Straight Error by Jim Bridwell and Mark Chapman, and
Mental Block (5.10) by Dale Bard and Jim Bridwell. The
controversial 5.11 rating acquired substantial additions from several
well-established names, and two of the most formidable leads in
American climbing met their match this year: Butterballs, a
3/4"-1" crack in a vertical wall, was finally mastered by Henry
Barber; and the Owl Roof, a 13ft. hand-and-fist crack in a
horizontal ceiling, was soloed, with jumars for belay, by Tom Higgins.
This last achievement stands as a monument to the enlarging spectrum
of free-climbing possibilities.
The season's contributions were blighted by the absence of Rik Reider,
one of the most talented climbers to come along in many years. Rik
proved to have amazing confidence and calm on the long run-outs in
1972. Routes like Chain Reaction and A Mother's Lament
stand in mute testimony to his ability. It's to be hoped that the
backbone of Yosemite's climbers will be of this sort of metal.
SUMMARY
Yosemite Valley: California. A briefing on the recent
popularity of extreme free-climbing in the Valley.
[middle photos - Arch Rock and Elephant Rock]
Above: Arch Rock, a small cliff at the entrance of the
valley, boasting six fierce climbs.
Arch Rock. Routes: 1. Entrance Exam,; 2. The English
Breakfast Crack; 3. Midterm; 4. Leaning Meanie; 5. The Gripper; 6. New
Dimensions.
Right: One of the most impressive initial valley cliffs is
the 900ft. Elephant Rock buttressed in front by a pillar called The
Worst Error. Two recent routes show up clearly on this pillar: Hot
Line follows the central crack system and Straight Error takes the
distinctive vertical crack on the right. Elephant Rock is also noted
for its stupendous off-width crack climbs - Cracks of Doom and
Despair. Photos: Ken Wilson
[final photos - 3 part sequence on Outer Limits]
Above and cover: Outer Limits is another of the Cookie
Area's fine routes. The left photo shows Chris Vandiver starting the
route, and the others depict Australian climber Rick White climbing up
to, and traversing, the final difficulties. Photos: Jim Stuart and
Henry Barber.
| Face Climbs | Chimneys | Liebacks | Thin Cracks | Hand and Fist | Off-Width Cracks | |
| 5.10A |
Fallen Arches Maxines Wall Angels Approach North Buttress, Middle Cath. Lichen Nightmare Pulpit Rock (from notch) East Buttress, Lower Cath. Rixon's West Face (2) |
Hot Line (5) |
Twilight Zone (3) La Escuela (3) Rixon's East (1) |
Stone Groove Swan Slab (2) New Dimensions (2 and 3) Vendetta Sacherer Cracker Siberian S.S. East Corner of Higher Spire Ramp of Deception Central Pillar Direct, Middle Cath. (2,6) |
Henley Quits Midterm Ahab Hump Absolutely Free, right side. Secret Storm |
Penny Nickle Arete Reed Pinnacle, left side Girl Next Door Crack of Despair Crack of Doom The Cookie, left side Peter Pan, right side (1) Chingando |
| 5.10B |
Pulpit, Orey/Jones route Perhaps Limbo Ledge (1) Punch Bowl East Buttress, Middle Cath. Henley Quits (2) Peanut Central Pillar Direct, Middle Cath. (8) |
Lost Arrow Chimney |
Wheat Thin Basket Case (4) Koko Ledge |
Outer Limits (1) Gripper Anathema Easy Streaks Rixon's West (1 variation) Bare Necessities New Dimensions (1) |
Peter Pan, right side (2) Book of Job Ind. Pinnacle, Independent Route (2) Quickie Quizzes Rixon's West Face (5) This and That (2) |
Henley Quits, left side Vendetta (2) Leverage Hourglass, right side Edge of Night Slack, left side Pulpit Pooper Narrow Escape Tower of Geek Kat Pinnacle Ind. Pin., Ind. Route (3) |
| 5.10C |
A Mother's Lament Slab Happy Dihardral Chain Reaction Paradise Lost, Middle Cath. Cheek D.N.B., Middle Cath. Elusion |
Waverley Wafer Powell/Reed, Middle Cath. |
Outer Limits (2) Lunatic Fringe Hardly Pinnacle High Quality Slack Center English Breakfast Crack Sacherer/Fredericks, Middle Cath. Limbo Ledge (2) Hot Line (1 and 2) Mental Block |
Meat Grinder Bridalveil East, Midget Chimney Straight Error (2) |
This and That (1) Forbidden Pinnacle Hourglass, left side Chopper Flake Jam Session |
|
| 5.10D |
Swan Slab (1) Hot Line (6) |
Split Pinnacle High Pressure |
Catchy Vanishing Point Serenity Crack Olga's Trick Five and Dime Ind. Pinnacle, Center route (3) Leaning Meanie |
1096 Final Exam |
Mental Block (2 and 3) Twilight Zone Steppin' Out Fall Out |
|
| 5.11 |
Calf Void |
La Escuela (1 and 2) Hour Glass, Left Side (undercling) |
New Directions [sic] Butterfingers Abstract Corner Butterballs |
Short Cake Gold Rush Owl Roof |
Cream Basket Case |
Notes
The above table of 5.10A, B, C, and D ratings was the first attempt to subdivide the wide range of 5.10 routes. Most of these routes have retained their original letter grades in 1999. Others have moved around, and some route names do not appear in the current guidebook.
I attempted to reproduce the original article verbatim, including some minor errors. I left out the photos, because my copy was poor. No permission was granted to reproduce this article. It should be reprinted someday, and is available here for historical reference in the meantime. Here is a link to one of the original sources: