rev. 6/18/09
Woodfords Canyon rock climbing

This compiliation attempts to put
the routes in a continuous order - a clockwise loop
around the river valley, like the Yosemite guidebook.
The loop starts in the SE with Storm Trooper Buttress,
continues left-to-right along the south side of the river,
then covers the north side of the river, left-to-right.
Sources:
"Climbers Guide to Alternative Cragging - East Tahoe Region",
by Ron Anderson.  PDF scanned version downloaded from supertopo.com 4/08.
Stars converted from 5 star to 3 star by subtracting 2 stars from all routes.
rockclimbing.com - describes 2 routes left of One of These Days (RC)
mountainproject.com - several newer routes (MP)



South Side

Storm Trooper Buttress (park near W intersection of 88 and Crystal Springs)

1. Leper Face 5.10a *, knobby face, N face, tie off knobs, 45'
2. Sergeant D 5.9+ *, RFC, W face, pro to 3"
3. Storm Troopers of Death 5.12b ***, right diagonal crack, 5 fps, pro to 2.5"
4. Speak English 5.10a/b TR, RFC to 2x anchor
5. Or Die 5.10a TR, knobby face to same anchor

Strangler Cliffs

6. Nevada/Utah Border 5.9/5.10 **, hands/fingers, W face
7. Strangle Hold 5.12a ***, thin RFC, NW face, pro to 1.5", 80'
8. Hill Side Strangler 5.11b **, thin, NW face, pro to 1.", 80'

Woodcutters Wall (50-60', 450' R of Strangler Cliff, NW face)

9. Left Branch 5.10a **, on L end, pro to 2.75"
10. Right Branch 5.8 *, pro to 2.75"

One of These Days Wall (aka King Diamond, Cloudburst Canyon)

11. un OTD arete 5.12?, __x, 40' L of un OTD face, RC
12. un OTD face 5.11 *, __x, sustained, 20' L of One of These Days, RC
13. One of These Days 5.10c ***, fingers to hand, pro to 3", 164'
14. Glory Hog 5.12a ***, 1x, traverse right under roof, partway up One of These Days, 1x
15. un OTD arete pr., L side of King Diamond p2 corner
16. King Diamond 5.11b **, 2p, 1: thin, 2: huge corner to roof, over R side, pro to 2.5"
17. Pictures of Me 5.10c **, pro to 2"
18. Bush League 5.10a *, pro to 2"
19. Little Miss Manners 5.11d **, thin

High Energy Wall

20. un HE a pr., RF arch, 1x
21. Duracell 5.11b *, 2p, chimney to thin crack, pro to 3", 160'
22. Lightning Dream 5.12d ***, 9x, arete, 85'
23. un HE b pr., 5.13a
24. Power Surge 5.11c/d, 2p, 45 degree roof crack, watch rope drag
25. Amped 5.12b **, overhanging finger crack, direct start to Proton
26. Proton 5.11b **, 2p, RFC, p2 80' to fp anchors
27. Neutron 5.10a ***, 2p, RFC, p2 80' to shared fp anchors
28. un HE c 5.9/5.10 *, 2p, 1: thin crack/flake, 2: double cracks


North Side

Henry's Unit Boulder (20' high, 100' W of Apron, about 12 problems)

The Apron - West Face

29. Apron WF left 5.8, dirty slot
30. Apron WF flared crack a 5.9+
31. Apron WF flared crack b 5.9+
32. Apron West Wall Route 5.11b *, 3x, 2 #2 TCUs, tieoff sling, to tree, 75'

The Apron - South Face

33. Jammin Me 5.11c/d *, striking crack, pro to 2"
34. old aid pr., 4x
35. Don't Let Me Down 5.7 A3, LFC, may have gone free
36. Apron SF corner 5.7, RFC
37. Freezer Box 5.9, chimney
38. Apron SF flake 5.10b/c *, thin flake, 65'

Cracker Cliff (600' L of Apron)

39. CC a pr.
40. CC b pr.
41. CJ-Eight 5.8 *, flake, pro to 2"
42. Watti-Yatti 5.10b **, 7x
43. Five Reliable Sisters 5.10a/b *
44. Piss Fir Willies 5.7 A2, pro to 1"

Orange Wall (above Apron and Cracker Cliff)

45. un Orange 5.11+, 2p, through obvious roof in center of face

White's Wall (40 min. approach)

46. Chuck's Chimney 5.9 R, 2p, LFC, flared slot/ow, pro to 4"
47. Children of the Sun 5.10b X, 2p, 1: runout 5.10+ slab, 2: RFC ow slot, pro to 4"

In the 70s

48. In the 70s 5.8/5.9, 50' fist crack, pro to 3.5"

The Fortress (30+ minute approach)

Fortress - Books (E face)

49. Fortress hand crack 5.8 **, pro to 3"
50. Fortress book 5.7 *, pro to 3"
51. Cat Scratch Fever 5.10a **, pro to 3"

52. Pillar Roof 5.11+, 2p

Donnie G (first formation reached on standard approach, 30-45 minutes, 90' below Second Alcove)

53. Arrowhead 5.11a, granite "stalactite" hanging 25' off the ground, MP
54. Whisker Biscuit 5.9 *, 15' R of Arrowhead, pillar, roof crack, upper crack, 80', MP

Fortress - Second Alcove (W face)

55. Walking Jack 5.10c *, 40' R of Whisker Biscuit, faces E, wide fist crux, pro to 3.5", 80', MP
56. I Be Jammin 5.10a **, right side, left diagonal crack to LFC, pro to 3"

Fortress - First Alcove (E face)

57. First Alcove - No Name 5.10b/c, obvious 30' LFC, R of black streak, pro to 3"

High Caliber Corridor (R from Whisker Biscuit, above 40' pine tree)

58. Un-Named 5.11a, corner crack, MP
59. Mr. Personality 5.12a *, _x arete, just R of Un-Named, optional 2" cam at start, MP

Fortress - Liebacks (S face)

60. Carabiner Crack 5.10b/c ***, left leaning crack to RFC, pro to 2.5", 3 fps
61. Sole Burner 5.10a **, 2p, 2: faces E
62. The Other Lieback 5.9 R, LFC, pro to 2.5", 75' R of Sole Burner
63. The Perfect Lieback 5.8 ***, LFC, pro to 2.5"

Fortress - Winter Prime (E face)

64. Winter Prime 5.11+ TR **, LFC, partly S facing?
65. Boulder than you Think 5.9+ *, pro to 2"
66. Pillar Face 5.10a TR, 80'
67. T-Crack 5.9 *, 2p, 1x, pro to 1"

Fortress - Sun Wall (S face, 100' R of Winter Prime area)

68. Sun Wall Left 5.10c **
69. Sun Wall Middle 5.10b *
70. Sun Wall Right 5.9+ *, LFC

71. First Crux 5.9+ *, RFC to LFC, E face, pro to 2.5"

Fortress - Red Pillar (E face, up and R of Liebacks, Sun Wall)

72. RP Chimney 5.6
73. un RP a 5.10c *, thin LFC, approach via ledges
74. un RP b 5.10c *, pro to 2.5"
75. The Red Pillar 5.9 **, LF arch to LFC, pro to 3", 100'

Fortress - Main Alcove (E face, above Sun Wall, Red Pillar)

76. Dano Bolt 5.11a **, on inside wall, fingers to fist, lightning bolt, 100'
77. Penial Pillar 5.10a *, on pillar, pro to 2.5"
78. Way the Hell up There 5.11c **, on pillar, pr to 4", starts on overhanging flake
79. Fortress MA un 5.10a *, 2p, starts just R of pillar
80. Up to Nuthin' 5.9, 3p, 1: 5.7 corner, 2: 5.9 flared crack, 3: 5.8 ow, 2 fps
81. Toprope Wall a 5.9 TR, short grey wall, 60-70'
82. Toprope Wall b 5.10d TR
83. Toprope Wall c 5.11+ TR, curving chimney and crack, has small dead tree

Far East (traverse E/R from base of Donnie G to gully)

84. Pump Factory 5.11b **, fingers to fist, on 40' boulder, uphill/E/R of TR wall, on L side of gully, MP
85. Carhartt Crack 5.9 R *, chimney w/ cracks, rap in to Work Wall from R side of gully, MP

Bertha's Boulder (40-45', roadside)

86. Bertha's ow 5.10c *, on W face, pro to 5"
87. Bertha's jam 5.8 *, jam crack above fence, pro to 3"
88. Bertha's face 5.12+ *, 1x, E face
89. Bertha's back side 5.6

Epoxy Wall (above Bertha's Boulder, old fixed ladder approach, glued on holds)

90. Epoxy L side 5.9+, LFC, can use to set up topropes
91. Epoxy a 5.11a/b *, 4x
92. Epoxy b 5.11c/d *, 4x
93. Epoxy c 5.11d/5.12a *, 5x
94. Epoxy d 5.12a/b *, 5x

Overbooked

95. Over Booked 5.9 *, obvious roof with corners above Mama Cat, 1x, pro to 2.5", 100'

Mama Cat Boulder (15' boulder, 150' from 88, park at green gate)

96. MC WF a B1, boulder problem
97. MC WF b B1, boulder problem
98. MC SF a 5.12, face
99. MC SF b 5.11c, L side of arete, 1x on top
100. MC EF a 5.10d, mantle midway
101. MC EF b 5.11b, 1x on top
102. MC EF c 5.10b, to same 1x
103. MC EF d 5.10
104. MC back side 5.6

Suicide Falls

105. Suicide Falls Left 5.9, 4p, 1: broken 100', 2: 5.8 R face, 3: corner to chim., 4: 5.9 ow, 350'
106. The Flying Block 5.10 R, 4p, 100' R of waterfall, 1: broken 5.5 120', 2: 5.10 R face, 3: R then back L, 4: 5.7 jam to bulge, 450'
107. Beulah the Pumper 5.7 R, 4p, 300' R of waterfall, 375'