rev. 5/3/05
Tollhouse Rock guide

Notation:
  x   = bolt  (3x = 3 bolts on pitch, not counting belay bolts)
  p2  = pitch 2 (p1 = pitch 1, etc.)
  2p  = 2 pitches
Protection ratings (apply to crux of route, not to easy sections):
  (from Jim Erikson's "Boulder Climbs" 1980)
  R   = runout, 20' fall onto good pro, shorter fall with gear pulling,
        fair chance of being hurt.
  X   = no protection
---------------------------


Left of Tollhouse Traverse

1. unnamed 5.7 tr
2. Left Lane 5.7 *, pro to 2.5"
3. Hershy S. 5.6, 3x
4. Fartin' and Belchin' 5.9 R, 5p, pro to 1.5", thin to LFC, left to arch
5. Home Boys 5.8, 5x, 2p
6. Knocking on Heaven's Door 5.8, 6x, pro to 1"
7. Ruffles 5.9, 2x, pro?, slab to LFC, right
8. Nuts and Bolts 5.7 *, 5p, pro to 3", deep chimney to start
9. Easy Street 5.7 A1, 2p, traverse right along dike 2 pitches off the ground
10. Old Fart's Edge 5.6, 3x
11. Falling Star 5.8, 4p, pro to 1.5"
12. Wandering Taoist 5.9 *, 6x, 2p
13. Silly Wizard 5.8, 2x, pro to .5"
14. Elephant Walk 5.7 *, 6p, pro to 2"
15. Beginner's Delight 5.8 *, pro to .5"
16. Beginner's Right 5.7, pro to 3", RFC
17. Stone Shaman 5.10c, 4x
18. True Grip 5.10a R, 2p
19. Tollhouse Traverse 5.5 *, 4p, pro to 3"

Right of Tollhouse Traverse

20. Marvin's Mantle 5.9, 4p, pro to .5", committing
21. Hang 'em High 5.8 R, 3p
22. Parental Guidance 5.10a *, pro to 2"
23. The Direct 5.10a, 3p, 3rd pitch seasonally wet
24. Diana's Delight 5.9, 4x
25. Balls 5.9 *, 4p, 20' to first bolt
26. Brains 5.9, 4x, alt. to p2 of Balls
27. Swallow 5.9 R, alt. to p2 of Balls
28. The Headwall 5.9 *, 4p, pro. to 2", first bolt 6' L of open book
29. Heartbreaker 5.9, pro. to 2", up book, joins Headwall at bolt
30. Thirty Eighth Parallel 5.9 R, pro. to 2"
31. Think Nothing of It 5.10b R, 3p, direct start to 38th Parallel
32. Free and Easy 5.7 *, 3p, pro. to 1.5"
33. Archaeology 5.6, pro to 2", traverses left under arch, joins Balls
34. Upper Traverse 5.6, 3p, pro to 3", loose/rotten rock on p2

Right of Upper Traverse

35. Short Cut 5.8, 1x
36. At Your Leisure 5.10b, 3x
37. Munge Master 5.9, 3x
38. E route 5.7, 2x
39. Don't Laugh 5.9 *, 2p, 5x, 2x
40. New Breed 5.9 *, 2p, 5x, 4x
41. Mi Vida Loca 5.10b *, 7x
42. K.L.A.M. 5.9+ *, 7x
43. Rabbit 5.8, pro to 1", crux move over roof
44. White Hawk 5.11c, 9x
45. Maybe's Baby 5.11a *, pro to .5"
46. Arete Already 5.10c *, 8x
47. Desperado 5.9, pro to 1"
48. Samurai Crack 5.10a, pro to 2"
49. United Express 5.10b *, 8x, pro 2" to 3"
50. Desaparecido 5.9, pro to .5"
51. O.R.A.U. 5.10b, pro to 1.5"
52. Gibbon 5.9 R, 3p, pro to 2"
53. Attitudes of the People 5.11b *, 11x, pro to .5"
54. Fat Andy 5.11a *, 7x, pro?
55. Bloody Knuckles Direct 5.10a X, pro to 1"
56. Bloody Knuckles 5.9 *, pro to 1.5"

Right of Bloody Knuckles

57. Art Baker Memorial 5.9 *, pro .5" to 2.5"
58. Leapin' Lichen 5.9 R, 2x
59. James Watt Memorial 5.10a R, pro 1.5" (#2 Friend)
60. Friday the 13th 5.7 *, pro to 1.5"
61. Club Clovis 5.10b, 2p, 6x, 1x
62. Power Play 5.11a, 5x
63. Amphitheatre Traverse 5.7
64. Amphitheatre Layback 5.6 *, pro to 1.5"
65. Shakey Legs 5.10c *, 6x
66. unknown, 3x
67. Spliff 5.11a tr *
68. Cool Runnings 5.10b R *, 2p, 3x, 3x, pro?, 5.10c starting thin crack
69. Trench Town Rock 5.9 X, 2x
70. Cool's Traverse 5.8, pro to 2"
71. Fart 5.6, pro 1" to 4", LFC on L side of Turret
72. Snake 5.6 *, pro to 3", curving crack from top of Turret
73. Turret 5.7, pro to 2", brushy
74. Turret Right 5.5, pro
75. Scary Ball 5.9, 4x, pro to 3"

access from ramp on upper right

76. Mineral Magic 5.8+ *, 6x
77. Free James Brown 5.10a *, 6x, joins Frantic Manic at last bolt
78. Frantic Manic 5.10a *, 5x
79. Anasazi 5.10d, 4x, shares 2x with Frantic Manic
80. Behavior Modification 5.10a X, just above descent gully

below access ramp (left of descent gully)

81. Shattered Dreams 5.7 *, 5x
82. Hippo in a Bathtub 5.7, 5x
83. unknown, 1x, probably more bolted routes here

Harris Terrace (above descent trail)

84. All it Takes is All You Got 5.11b X *
85. Turbo Boost 5.10b A0, 2x, poor pro in flared crack
86. Methane Boost 5.10c A0, 1x
87. Knob Hardley 5.10b tr

Beginner's Area (right of descent gully)

88. Rec 80 5.8, pro to 4"
89. Sevy 5.7, 4x, pro?, slab to RFC
90. Directissima 5.7, 2p, 3x, 2x, pro?
91. Center Crack 5.6, 2p, pro?, straight in crack
92. Staircase 5.6, 1x, pro?
93. Book 5.6, pro to 1.5", LFC/flake

Sunday/Spencer's Slab

94. Taking a Bath with Strangers 5.8+, 9x, next to edge of RFC
95. Heat Stroke 5.8, 2p, 3x, 4x
96. Heavenly Breezes 5.8, 1x, pro to 2", alt. p2 left of Heat Stroke
97. Morning Edition 5.9, 4x
98. Fresno Flats 5.10a, 2p, 3x, 1x, pro to .5"
99. All Things Considered 5.9, 4x

Cap Rock (average 25')

100. Pop Quiz 5.9, hand
101. Worm Squirm 5.7, squeeze
102. Hangout 5.9, hand to ow
103. Sin Eater Left 5.10c *, hand
104. Sin Eater Right 5.10d *, hand
105. Confession 5.10b
106. Limbo 5.11b, thin, overhang
107. Right of Limbo 5.8, hand, roof traverse
108. Captain Beefheart 5.8, hand
109. Palmist 5.12d tr *, corner
110. Spiderman 5.10d *, thin corner
111. Strawberry Jam 5.10a *, hand, face
112. Platinum Plus 5.8 *, thin to hand, face
113. Sudden Impact 5.12a *, 3x, face, stemming
114. Step Left 5.5, lower left leaning crack
115. Hang Left 5.6, upper left leaning crack
116. Car Key Corner 5.10a *, corner crack
117. Digital Face 5.11a tr *, mantle, face
118. Cuticle Corner 5.7 *, thin
119. Uncorner 5.10b tr *, face
120. Stairway to Heaven 5.10? tr, face
121. Paul's Route 5.10? tr, face between black and white rock
122. Dream Analysis 5.9 *, 3" corner