The list below is just a simple attempt to get a feeling for where some of the main routes are. Routes are (intended to be) listed from left to right.
overview photo by Matt Perkins. Illusion Wall is in the center, casting the shadow. The South Face is to the left, and Dinkin' Around Slabs and Zippy's Wall are to the right.
1. Primal Scream 5.9 ***, 25+ pitches, mostly 5.7.
A nice ridge climb on the central rib of the south face.
Near the top, make a "death traverse" right to reach the summit
area, or the top of Dick Ridge (for descent) (?).
The first ascent was done in 5 hours, car to top (3900').
They speculated it could be done in 3 hours.
Best in late summer/early fall; snow on top would cause problems.
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, 11/1/1996 (free solo)
2. Chicken Shit Gully 5.__? .
An open slab gully on the right side of the south face.
Ends at Dick Ridge.
FA: "Engineers", 1986?
3. Dick Ridge 5.__? . A low angle ridge, which connects from the top of Chicken Shit Gully (or the top of Illusion Wall, Eagle's Nest) to the summit.
The other climbs are on walls which face east.
4. bolted route 5.10a, 6 pitches.
On the far left side of the wall, third rib from right.
Approach via "black gully of death" and "traverse of death" from the right.
p1: 5.9 broken ground to a few bolted 5.9 moves,
p2: 5.10a *** bolted headwall,
p3: 5.9/5.10a crack to face, about 50'.
p4-p7/p9: 5.2 - 5.8 slab pitches lead to the top of
Illusion Wall. The route can be rappelled with 2 ropes.
FA: "Engineers", or Greg Wolfkill?
trip report "Marginal Mystery Tour"
by Micah Laurer, of the approach and climb in 10/00 with Matt Perkins.
5. 6 Lost Pitons 5._?. Not sure of exact location. The rappel route?
6. Looks Like a Bad Sign 5.__? ***.
On the far right side of the wall.
Approach via Zephyr Ledge, "black gully of death" to "butt rest".
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, Ken Strong(?), 1996
7. E/M = C2 5.9, 20 full pitches.
Not sure of location relative to other routes.
Given its length, it must go to the top, left of Zippy's Wall.
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, Ken Strong(?), 1995
8. Steel Chicken Heads 5.10b or 5.10+, 15+ pitches.
Up center of wall. 6 pitches to Upper Ledge.
The first 2 pitches end at Bathtub Ledge, 250' up. The 3rd pitch has
a 5.10b move 40' up.
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, Ken Strong(?), 19__
9. Every 4 at 40 5.7-5.9.
Right of center. The first 3 pitches originally had 2 bolts
per pitch. In 1995, they had 25+ bolts.
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, __________(?), 1986?
10. Not Fred Beckey's 5.10b/c or 5.10+, 9 pitches, the "trade route",
including underclings and offwidth.
In 1987, when pitch 2 was finished, the route had 8 bolts to
that point. Pitch 6 originally had 4 bolts, in 1999 it had 15 bolts.
Almost all the bolts are 1/4" or 3/16", without hangers.
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, __________(?), 1989
11. Use Your Nuts "5.12+/5.13+", a short section
of aid to reach outrageous climbing on the shield.
Just to the right of Not Fred Beckey's.
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, Ken Strong(?), 1990
12. Steel Chickenheads (upper) 5.10+?, the 9+ pitches
above Upper Ledge.
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, Ken Strong(?), 19__
13. Dinkin' Around 5.__?
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, Ken Strong(?), 19__
14. Gear Up 5.__?, middle crack system. See center of
montage photo above.
No bolts. Does use knifeblade pitons.
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, __________(?), 19__
15. The Butrest 5.__?
Exposed and clean.
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, Ken Strong(?), 19__
16. Free Moonlight 5.__?
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, Ken Strong(?), 19__
17. C Squared 5.__?
Same as E/M = C2 above?
FA: Chris Christensen, Dave Johnson, Ken Strong(?), 19__
