Trip reports, chronological order

P: Frog - FA of Volcanic Panic 1/00 Dennis
P: Reservoir - FA of Jingus (aid route) 2/00 Dennis
P: Sisters 3/00 Renata, Lance
Death Valley + Bishop 3/00 family
P: Cone, Monument 3/00 Skyler, Lance
Y: Rostrum (lower half) 4/00 Joel
Joel's version
P: Sisters 3/00 solo
P: Citadel/Power Tools, Son of Dawn Wall 4/00 Dennis
Y: FA of Sight Reader, Steal This Book 5/00 Joel
Joel's version
Y: Kat Walk, Turret Rappel Route 5/00 solo
Y: Perfect Vision arete, Killer Pillar 6/00 Joel
Y: Ho Chi Minh Trail 7/4/00 Dennis
Calaveras Dome: 9/00 Lin Murphy
We did most of Time Traveller, and rapped down Silk Road. Lin led the crux "gastoning" pitch - it was too much for me to try it "off the couch". On Sunday, we did the first 4 pitches of Wall of the Worlds. When I led the 5.10c traverse/undercling pitch, I ran out of gas, and rested clandestinely by hooking the lead rope over a small flake!
P: Son of Dawn Wall 10/00 solo
My partner for the weekend had to bail out on short notice, so it was a perfect opportunity to do some bolt replacement that I had been planning to do for a long time. I replaced 7 of the 1/4" bolts on the first pitch with 3/8" x 3". More work remains to be done. Fortunately, Dennis lent me his GriGri, so it was quite easy to belay myself on the solo aid lead. It was also great for rappelling and stopping on rappel. I had some other "pro" tools along, too: torque wrench, big crowbar (unfortunately it was not useful), safety glasses and earplugs.
P: Son of Dawn Wall 11/5/00 solo
P: Pipeloads to Pluto, Robots of Dawn, Son of Dawn Wall 12/2/00 Dennis
P: Resurrection Wall 12/3/00 Dennis

2001

P: Son of Dawn Wall rebolting 3/17/01 solo
Approaching from above, I soloed down the exit rib/chimney to the chockstone belay, reading the register on the way down. I refurbished belays at tops of pitches 5, 4, and 3, and replaced a few lead bolts. Humor was provided by hikers stomping on the bridge below, matching the rhythm of my day-long pounding on the drill!
P: Elephant Rock, Machete Ridge, Spike's Peak 3/24-25/01 Lance
Zion National Park 4/10-15/01 family
P: Fingers, Sponge, Burgundy Dome 5/19/01 Lance
Coloma, Lava Beds N.Mon. 5/26-28/01 family
Donner Summit - Snowshed 6/8-9/01 Lin Murphy
Sonora Pass Highway - Bear's Lair 6/16/01 Joel
Tuolumne Meadows 6/23-24/01 Matthew Seligman
Olympic Mountains - Mt. Elinor 7/3/01 family
Sonora Pass Highway - Midguard Wall 7/21-22/01 Dennis
Bay Area - Lower Guadeloupe Rock 7/28/01 Skyler and Lance
We spent several hours at this rock with its fun incuts. Actually the boys were more excited about catching polywogs/frogs in the creek. But we toproped routes on the main face from 5.2 to the 5.9 lieback crack. Skyler was able to do all the moves on the 5.9, but did not link them free yet.
Sonora Pass Highway - Midguard Wall 8/4-5/01 Dennis, Andrew Betts
Cape Cod 8/18/01
During our family vacation, we did a day sail south from Woods Hole to Tarpaulin Cove. I climbed a 20' boulder on the north end of the cove. The route had stopped me the previous year, and I thought I might need to use gear. I did need to bypass the overhanging start by leaning a 2 x 4 against the rock. Then a few finger crack moves reached easier slab moves to the top, where I left a small cairn.
Tuolumne Meadows 9/1-3/01 Hal Tompkins, Alice Fischer-Colbrie, Sean Brennan
Fiddler on the Roof (Fairview Dome), Crescent Arch (Daff Dome), Southeast Buttress (Cathedral Peak).
Tuolumne Meadows 9/22-23/01 Hal
Plastic Exploding Inevitable, Third Pillar
Sonora: Itchy, Y: Finger Lickin' 11/1-2/01 Joel
Y: Sons of Yesterday, Outer Limits, Reed's Direct 11/17-18/01 Pete Winterbottom
Y: Arch Rock, Jailhouse 12/7-9/01 Paul Friberg
Mission Cliffs (gym) 12/12/01 Paul, Vera, Ned
I actually climbed in a gym for about the 3rd time in my life. It was fairly fun, although my arms were still sore from the weekend, and I failed to top out on several 5.10s. Gavin Grover recognized me and got my $20 refunded in favor of his monthly guest pass!
Table Mountain: Funny Man 12/15/01 Joel
We warmed up by hiking over to the sunny Far Side and doing a route on the far left side (Man with One Rad Shoe). Joel hauled our packs up, so we wouldn't have to reverse the approach or risk getting the rope into the poison oak at the base. We then hiked over to Funny Man (5.12a, 9x). It gets virtually no sun in December, so it was cold like last Friday with Paul. Joel led bolt-to-bolt and I toproped the same, working out the moves a bit better than the first time. Joel took another lap on toprope as well.

2002

P: Torso 1/20/02 Brad Young
P: Easy Classics 2/9-10/02 Lance
P: Desperado Chute-Out rebolting 2/9-10/02 Chris Sheldon
Y: Arch Rock, Five and Dime, Tips 2/23-24/02 Joel
P: Son of Dawn Wall rebolting completed 3/9/02 solo
P: Serpiente de Cascabel, Denny-Colliver 3/16/02 Dennis
Jailhouse: 3/23-24/02 Dan Nguyen
Y: Cookie, Free Blast 3/30-21/02 Lin Murphy
Lake Powell 4/12-20/02 family
JH: 4/25/02 Chris Bellizzi
Skyline / Indian Rock: 5/2/02 Chris
Y: Lower Cathedral Spire - South by Southwest 5/4/02 Joel
JH: 5/7/02 Chris
Y: The Rostrum 5/4/02 [Dennis] Erik
JH: 5/14/02 Chris, Tom Addison
Y: The Cookie 5/19/02 Erik
JH: 5/21/02 Chris, Tom
Y: Beggar's Buttress, Apron, East Buttress of Middle (rockfall descent) 5/25-27/02 Erik, Lance
Y: Middle Cathedral - Penny Pinnacle rappel route 6/1/02 solo
See more details at: Yosemite Approaches and Descents.
SF Bay Area: Mickey's Beach 6/6/02 Chris
Y: Book of Job 6/16/02 Joel
Lover's Leap: East Wall, Haystack/Pop Bottle 7/14/02 Lance
Castle Rock: Castle Rock Ridge 7/19/02 Matt Laue
"California 5.11a" I led this after several hangs. It has an interesting pinch/undercling move to move left at the lip.
Matt led the 5.10, 3 routes to the right of C5.
We figured out how to toprope the "5.11d" 2 routes to the right of C5. With our long reaches, I thought it was more like 5.10d, once you know the moves.
We attempted to toprope the roof/crack/groove just right of C5. No luck. Maybe if I had a kneepad.
Tuolumne Meadows: Lucky Streaks, Oz 7/27-28/02 Matt Laue
Saturday: we did Lucky Streaks 5.10b without any major incidents. Got some booty wired stoppers from the crux pitch and the belay at its end. Matt hadn't done much multipitch before, so this was a nice one. Matt led half of pitch 2, and pitch 4.
Sunday: we did Oz 5.10d. Actually we skipped the 5.10a traverse pitch at the end, and just rapped down with our 2 ropes. I led all 4 pitches. I felt pretty solid on it.
Sonora Pass Highway: Lost World Gorge 8/3/02 Joel, Brad Young
Skyline / Indian Rock 8/9/02 Erik Neumann
Sonora: Columns of the Giants 8/29/02 Chris
Donner Summit 8/31-9/1/02 Matt
Sonora: Lost World 9/20/02 Tom Addison
Table Mtn: The Fissures 10/1/02 Chris
Y: East Buttress of El Cap 10/5/02 Matt
P: 40 Days of Rain / Ranger Bolts 10/11/02 Chris
Sonora: Frankensteins - Perfectly Frank 10/12/02 Joel
Cal Domes: Hidden Wall - Ginsu 10/24/02 Chris
JH: 10/31/02 Chris, John Mallory, Eliza
JH: 11/07/02 Chris
P: Ranger Bolts (worked) 11/14/02 Chris
Y: Ten Years After, Catchy Corner 11/16/02 Joel
P: Plague, Power Point, Foreplay 11/17/02 Stanford Alpine Club
JH: Whipping Boy 11/21/02 Chris
Y: Beyond the Fringe, Cookie 11/23/02 Joel
P: Balconies 11/25/02 Brad
Skyline/Goat Rock 12/01/02 Skyler, Lance
JH, Y: Serenity/Sons 12/4-5/02 Paul Friberg

2003

P: The Gag, Exiles, Heat Seeking, Relayer 2/2/03 Jim McConachie
Table Mountain: Gold Wall 2/7/03 Chris Bellizzi
P: Broken Arrow, Dead Bird Crack, Between a Rock... 3/2/03 Lin Murphy
Table Mountain: Gold Wall 3/6/03 Chris Bellizzi
P: Hummingbird rebolting 3/9/03 Robert Behrens, Jeff Lane, Mike
P: Machete Direct rebolting 4/5/03 Bruce Hildenbrand, Henri Hein
P: Axe Pinnacle rebolting, new route 4/7/03 Bruce
P: The Wedge, Ball Pinnacle rebolting 4/15/03 Bruce
P: Machete Direct rebolting 4/19/03 Bruce, Henri
P: High Peaks new routes 4/26/03 Bruce, Henri
JH: rebolting 5/2/03 Chris
P: training 5/8/03 Chris
JH: training 5/9/03 Chris
P: training 5/11/03 Chris, Dennis Erik
Y: Braille Book 5/18/03 Jeff Lane
S: Grotto 5/22/03 Chris
Y: Cookie, Sacherer-Fredericks attempt 5/25-26/03 Erik
P: The Penguin Handshake 5/31/03 Jim McConachie
Y: Sacherer-Fredericks 6/8/03 Erik
S: Columns of the Giants 6/18/03 Chris
Washington state: Liberty Crack, Leavenworth 7/6-11/03 Brad Young
B: Mickey's Beach 7/24/03 Chris
S: Columns of the Giants 7/28/03 Chris
S: Columns of the Giants 8/31/03 Chris
Tuolumne + Yosemite: Fairview, Phobos, Central Pillar of Frenzy 9/12-14/03 Chris Gurr
Tuolumne: West Country, Crescent Arch, Hoodwink, Aqua Knobby 9/27-28/03 Jeff Lane
Y: Astroman (jumars), Reed's Direct, Lunatic Fringe 10/4-5/03 Steve Curtis
P: Disco, Mono, Upper Crust 10/12/03 Chris Bellizzi, Robert Behrens
Y: DNB (first 5 pitches) 10/26/03 Chris Harvey
JH: training 10/31/03 Chris Bellizzi
P: Discovery Wall 11/2/03 Chris Harvey, SAC
P: Balconies Regular Route rebolting 11/22/03 solo
P: Monolith 11/23/03 SAC
P: Peregrine climb, rebolting 11/25/03 Brad Young
Jailhouse: 2+ days 12/4-7/03 Paul Friberg
P: Balconies 12/13/03 Erik
P: Smokestack rebolting 12/15/03 Bruce Hildenbrand
P: FA of Abnur Bear is Everywhere 12/22/03 Bruce

2004

P: Disco, Mono 3/17/04 Lin Murphy
Y: Sons of Yesterday, Parkline Slab 3/20-21/04 Lin
Y: Parkline Slab, Slab Happy Pinnacle 3/27-28/04 Lin
Death Valley: Telescope Peak 11,049' 4/5/04 Renata, Skyler, Lance and Jack Kerrebrock
P: FA of Condor 70 4/28/04 Bruce
Lover's Leap: Leading class 5/1-2/04 photos SAC
Y: Royal Arches, Crest Jewel, Grack Marginal 5/22-23/04 Chris Harvey, SAC
Y: East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, South Crack, Low Profile Dome 5/29-30/04 Tim Tuomey, Jared Brown, Jesse Hanson
Y: Coyote Rocks, Dixie Peach, Sweet Nothings, On the Lamb 6/5-6/04 Tim
Y: Quiet Desperation, Table of Contents, Galactic Hitchhiker (to Oasis), The Cobra, Dixie Peach, Footnote, Cryin' Time Again, Lunatic Fringe, Nutcracker 6/15-20/04 Lin, Carissa Aoki Cobra photos
Y: Moratorium, New Scavenger, Lembert 6/26-28/04 Lin
Y: White Flake, Eunuch, Slabstick, Great White Book, El Condor 7/17-18/04 photo Lance
Y: Inverted Staircase, Lucky Streaks, Darth Vader's Revenge 8/21-22/04 Jason Liebgott
Y: SAC Anchors II class 10/22-23/04 photos SAC
Goat Rock: SAC Intro class 10/30/04 photos SAC
P: West Side rebolting 11/17/04 Bruce
We completed the rebolting of Machete Direct by sprucing up its first pitch and belay anchor. Then we did a little work on Lava Falls, replacing bolt hangers at the anchors, and Bruce replaced the last lead bolt on the second pitch.
P: West Side rebolting 12/2/04 Bruce
We rebolted the second pitch of the Balconies Regular Route. Bruce replaced 7 bolts, and I replaced 4 and added a second bolt at the anchor. A rather horrifying pitch, with the rusty 1/4" bolts and their tiny homemade aluminum hangers, that I was not sure I even wanted to grab for aid. But I was so pumped from trying to follow pitch one free that I had to grab a lot of them anyway....
Y: Cookie, Five and Dime 12/10-12/04 Paul Friberg

2005

Y: Reed's, Cookie, Pat and Jack 3/5-6/05 Johan Hvenmark Lunatic Fringe - Johan
Y: Cookie, Serenity/Sons 3/11-12/05 Jared Brown Wheat Thin - Jared
Indian Creek 3/18-28/05 Jared, Johan (outline with day 1 filled in; more hopefully later, before I forget what happened...)
Mantle Illness - Polly Scarface - Marshall, Jared
Carson Pass - SAC Mountaineering Workshop 4/9-10/05 self arrest, deadman anchor testing, boot-axe belay, crevasse rescue
P: Sinbad 4/13/05 Brad
Y: Knob Hill, Church Bowl 4/16/05 SAC folks photos
Castle/Goat Rock 4/17/05 SAC intro trip photos
Stanford climbing wall - prusiking practice 4/18,20/05
Shasta - SAC Mountaineering Workshop 4/22-23/05
Handley Rock - SAC crevasse rescue training 4/24/05
Tollhouse Rock - SAC Lead Climbing Workshop 5/7-8/05 photos
P: Long's Folly, Condor Crags 5/14/05 Lance Condor Crags - Lance
Lover's Leap - SAC Lead Climbing Workshop 5/21-22/05 photos
Lassen Peak - Summit + Snowboard 5/29/05 Skyler, John + Will Hicks photos
Y: Nose 6/2-6/05 Johan pitch above King Swing - Johan
Handley Rock 6/11/05 Karen, Paula, Aura
some fun toproping on a nice day Handley - Karen
Y: hiking 6/12/05 solo
One thing I checked out was the left side of Little Wing. I found the climbs, but they have too many detached/loose blocks, so it's not a good place for beginners.
Needles 6/19-21/05 Erika Monahan, Alexander Cooper
6/19: Spooky p1, Stars and Stripes Forever, Pinhead (toprope - Alex), The Raven (toprope; Clint didn't quite get it free)
6/20: Fancy Free, Igor Unchained Fancy Free - Erika
6/21: Innersanctum
more details later
Olympic Mountains: Mt. Washington 7/7/05 Nancy, Renata, Skyler
This was a fun climb - a little more interesting than hiking, but not too scary, so we didn't have to uncoil the tiny rope I brought.
3rd class near summit - Renata descent
Needles 7/23-24/05 Jared, Alexander
7/23: combo linkup: Innersanctum/Brute Force/Wicked - Jared Brute Force - Jared
Thin Ice - Jared
7/24: Airy Interlude - Jared
new 5.9 route left of North Chimney - Alexander, Jared
more details later
Tuolumne Meadows 8/6-7/05 - Claire Tomkins
8/6: Crescent Arch; had to retreat in rain after first pitch
Nutcracker - started at 6:30pm, getting dark on the mantle!
8/7: West Crack - swapped leads West Crack p2 - Clint (photo by Dan Urban) West Crack p2 knob arete - Claire West Crack p3 - Claire Blown Away - Dan Urban
South Crack - swapped leads, a bit of sleet/rain made the runouts interesting South Crack p1 - Claire ASCA rebolting - Greg Barnes
White Mountains (New Hampshire): Mt. Washington 8/17/05 family
Needles 8/27-28/05 Alexander
8/27: Witch Doctor, Love Potion #9 (to top) Love Potion #9 p2 - Alexander
8/28: Broomsticks, Gobsmacked p2 (tr), Gemstone (tr)
Tuolumne 9/10-11/05 Wayne Burleson
9/10: Hermaphrodite Flake L side + Eunuch, a quick run up Stately Pleasure Dome before dark
9/11: Third Pillar, an enjoyable race against the shade, up this classic. Third Pillar - first pitch - Wayne
Needles 9/17-20/05 SAC
9/17: Magician/Strange Brew - Clint/Andrea, Chris/Etienne Strange Brew start - Andrea Strange Brew p6 - Andrea Strange Brew p11 - Andrea alpenglow on the Wizard
first aid/rescue of injured leader on Igor Unchained - Alexander/Steph/Marshall/Polly
Innersanctum - Alexander/Steph
9/18: Thin Ice - Marshall/Polly
The Howling - Clint/Andrea, Chris/Etienne
5.9 flake route on NE side of Witch - Alexander/Steph
Gorilla Warfare - Alexander/Polly/Marshall/Steph
Witch North Ridge - Clint/Andrea, Chris/Etienne
9/19: White Punks on Dope - Clint/Etienne, Chris/Steph
9/20: rain :-(
Y: Positively 4th Street, Church Bowl 10/1-2/05 SAC
15 people participated: Clint, Andrea, Charles-Henri, Bj�rn, Darko, Sam, Etienne, Steph Abegg, Justin, Lindsay, Barbara, Natalie, Jennifer, Doug, and Alyssa.
Saturday: we did some crack climbing training on Positively 4th Street and Nutty Buddy, as well as toproping attempts on Absolutely Sweet Marie, and half a pitch of My Left Foot. Darko and Etienne climbed 1-2 pitches above Positively 4th Street, but this is not recommended for the future as there are a lot of loose rocks up there and some were knocked down by mistake (fortunately to the side of us, but still scary).
Sunday: we climbed at the Church Bowl, with topropes on Black is Brown, Uncle Fanny, Church Bowl Lieback, Pole Position, and Revival. Sam and Justin led Bishop's Terrace, and Darko led Pole Position and Tammy Fae.
photos
Y: Middle Cathedral - East Buttress 10/9/05 SAC
finishing p2 - Anne top of p5 - Christopher finishing p7 - Anne
Y: Central Pillar of Frenzy, El Capitan - East Buttress 10/15-16/05 Chris Chan photos
Y: Braille Book, Harry Daley, Chouinard Crack 10/22-23/05 SAC photos
Y: Bishop's Terrace, Central Pillar of Frenzy, Absolutely Free Center 10/29-30/05 Claire photos
Y: Serenity Crack / Ahwahnee Buttress / Sons of Yesterday , El Capitan - East Buttress 11/5-6/05 Anne photos
Y: Swan Slab, Harry Daley, Bishop's Terrace 11/12-13/05 SAC photos
P: Proclamation Pinnacle, Citadel Stream Boulders 11/17-18/05 Brad
P: Rock Around the Clock - day 1 12/7/05 Bruce
Y: Serenity Crack / Ahwahnee Buttress / Sons of Yesterday , Little John Right 12/10-11/05 Claire photos
P: Rock Around the Clock - day 2 12/14/05 Bruce
Y: Serenity Crack / Ahwahnee Buttress / Sons of Yesterday 12/17/05 Erika photos

For trips since this time, see Current trip reports.