Pinnacles:  Bear Gulch  2/13/99  with Dennis

Back in action, with Dennis redpointing more 5.11s that he
hadn't done before, and me just trying as hard as I can to
follow!

1. new route/Tourist Trap 5.8
We checked out this new 3 bolt route between Angstroms Away and
Rat Race.  The rock is good, but the route is rather contrived,
with easier cracks on each side of it.  Dennis led it with decent
protection in the cracks, without clipping any of the bolts.
So the bolts are unnecessary.  On the other hand, there are other
moderate bolted routes in this area, and 4 people were enjoying
it when we returned to its base.
   From the top of the route, we noticed 3 moderately old bolts
on a block behind it.  Dennis led past these; getting past a
rotten flake.

2. Bat Cave 5.11a
Dennis had led this last weekend, but had hung to clip the third
fixed pin and place backup gear.  This time he redpointed it.
The route is stiff for the grade, with a long reach/lunge to
a bucket, then more moves to get established with your feet
in the bucket.  When following, I grabbed a sling so I could
easily clean the third pin and get a more direct toprope for
the crux moves.  The bolt in the crux area needs to be replaced.
I tried to toprope the direct finish, and got my face over the
lip, but couldn't get established there (perhaps I need to use
a heel hook).  The regular finish (5.10), which traverses around
an overhanging corner, is quite wild and unique!

3. Anchor Scream 5.11a
Dennis had led this before; it was fun to do it again.

4. This Bolt's for You 5.11d
We skipped the initial boulder problem by climbing further right
of the bolts (me even further than Dennis).  Dennis took 2 falls
on the lip bolt of the main roof; since the clip there is fairly
easy, I thought he might as well count it as a free lead; same
effort as a redpoint.  Even though Dennis' chalk on the holds
made it easier for me to follow, I had 2 hangs at the lip before
using my feet correctly.

5. Time Stands Still 5.11b **
Dennis flashed this nice arete on the Guardian.  It has a sustained
section with rather small knobs.  The runout is on easier ground
near the top.  I made it a little ways up the small knobs, then
took several hangs, as I didn't have the finger strength/foot
technique to climb it free.  It deserves two stars.

6. Daddy Long Legs 5.11d (attempt)
Dennis worked this bolt to bolt.  It's very sustained, mostly on
rather small edges.  I didn't even attempt it, as I wasn't sure
I could even get high enough to get a workout on it!

7. Sport Climbers' Terror 5.10b
Dennis flashed this easily, not even bothering to put in the high
TCU I used on the first ascent.  I followed in the fading light.
Perhaps it's time to downrate it to 5.10a....