Pinnacles:  Bear Gulch  1/16/99  with Dennis

Dennis was back from a climbing trip to Red Rocks, Zion, etc.
In shape, and ready to start bagging some routes for his
goal of redpointing all the 5.11s in Bear Gulch.
I knew I'd have trouble keeping up, after many months mostly
on the couch, recovering from some shoulder tendonitis last
August.

1. Wild Berry Crack "5.10a"
Neither of us had done this route before.  Dennis located it by
leaving the trail at the Tourist Trap approach and walking
up along the streambed.  Partway along, there is an old well and
covered reservoir for the old drinking water system.  It can
be approached more directly when the streambed is dry by leaving
from the end of the first switchback after Chunky Monkey and going
slightly up, then down.  It had been raining the previous night,
and the moss and crack were a bit damp.  It has an overhanging
start, and when it turns vertical, the crack is a seam and there
are no big knobs.  Dennis led it solidly.  I had to take several
tries to get the start, once falling and plunging into a wet tree.
I got established by the fixed pin, but had to grab and hang on
the pro to keep from falling off again.  Guess I'll have to come
back sometime when it's bone dry to see if I can do better.

2. Bat Cave "5.11a" (attempt)
Since it was nearby, we checked it out.  Dennis led up to
the crux, where he clipped the 3 fixed pins in a row, and tried
to work out the moves.  It was steep, smooth, and he couldn't
figure it out.  I passed.  We'll be back.

3. The Verdict (original start) 5.11b
Dennis led via the original traverse start and had no problems,
looking in fine shape.  I couldn't seem to make the "iron cross"
reach at the start, so I used the direct start.  I had to
traverse right below the crux to depump.  Then I barely made it,
using several dynos to make up for lack of forearm endurance.

4. Here Comes the Judge 5.11a
Dennis solidly led this vendetta.  We are not sure if it should
stay completely separate from Broken Arrow, but I think they join
for a few moves, including the rest on Broken Arrow.  Even that
way it was over my head.  I cranked the move across the headwall,
onto the slanting jugs, but I couldn't make the final crank
through to get established, so I had to hang.

5. Lithium 5.11b
Another solid lead for Dennis.  I was able to dyno through the
initial 5.11 bulge, but couldn't hang onto the pebbles on the
upper crux bulge.

6. Pistol Whipped 5.10d
Dennis wasn't sure if he had redpointed this before, so he
ticked it (solidly).  As usual, I was unable to make the crux
moves, which may require standing on small holds with your
left foot?

7. Gladiator 5.11b
Not quite a redpoint for Dennis on this one, as he lowered off
once.  But still a free lead.  I cleaned the gear from the
initial crux bulge, but didn't think I could hold onto the handhold
I was able to reach.  So I snuck around via the Dead Bird Crack start.
The main Dead Bird Crack crux was still fun and challenging, as was
the upper Gladiator corner.

We noted that the usual bird closures (Yaks, Balconies, High Peaks)
are now in effect.