Donner Summit and Sugarbun 7/28-29/98  with Joel Ager

Originally, Nancy had planned to climb in Washington state with
her dad on this weekend, but she had rotten luck when her flight
was cancelled after a 4.5 hour wait at the airport.  In the meantime
Joel had called to find a partner after Gavin had cancelled on him.
Nancy passed on the chance for a rock climbing weekend, so Joel
and I reunited our "dream team" partnership of many years.

Saturday
We got a leisurely start at noon from Berkeley.
Joel led almost everything on this trip, since he hasn't been out much,
and that was his choice.

- Black Wall  (nicely in the shade when we arrived)
1. Firecracker 5.10b, fun crack through a roof.  But first Joel
had to survive the 4" wide crack, where it's a bit runout without
special gear, and the preferred method is to lieback the sharp
right side of the crack.  Above the roof, the crack was quite smelly
from its occupation by many squeeking bats.
2. ramp pitch 5.9.  Entertaining thin crack and then a ramp that
narrows for some semi-blind jams and thoughtful footwork.
3. easy corner 5.6, Clint led.  We walked off.
4. Primer boulder 5.9+, Joel led.  Nice handjams.  I used my left
kneepad to good advantage on the blank left wall.  Joel remarked that
it is sort of a mini version of the last pitch of New Dimensions.

Sunday

- Snowshed Wall
1. Jam Session 5.10b, Joel led with some hangs.  Disorienting steep
start with wide crack and stemming to holds.  Overhanging crux
corner at top.  Having done this route before, I faced right at the
top, which made the crack seem more overhanging, but gave easier
access to the good handjams.  Booty:  I liberated a slingless #6 hex
from an easy section.
2. Palsy 5.9  Joel originally led half of the direct start, but
it was tough and the protection was iffy.  The regular start was
an interesting pull onto an arete and slab.  Then up a thin crack in
a corner, plus holds on the arete.  I was able to toprope the direct
start; it would have been a risky lead.
3. Farewell to Arms 5.10b, Joel led with some hangs.  I recalled how
I had hung the first time I tried to led it, too; it's quite a tough
size to jam.  Since then I know exactly how to use my right foot to
extend between the better jams.
4. Little Feat 5.11a, Clint toproped this.  Quite a sustained route;
I was pleased to make it.  It started raining as Joel started it,
so he only got one try (just touching the first jug on the main arete).  
Rain turned to hail, and we crouched for awhile under the arete, until
it eased off to rain and we returned to the car.  Joel mentioned his
poor luck with weather this year; it has rained on all his climbing
trips.

- Sugarbun
Joel figured (correctly) that this nice rock would be dry, so we
drove along Lake Tahoe and out route 50 to reach it.
1. Fingerlock 5.10b, Joel led this nice finger crack.  One crux
was making the transition from climbing the tree to reaching the
crack.  Several hard sections, with a climactic slanting finish.
The only downside was dancing around to avoid the mosquitoes at
the base.