Pinnacles 5/3/98  with Andy Gardner

We had planned on a Valley trip, but the weather was bad, so
we settled on a day of crack climbing in the Pinnacles.

1. Plague 5.10a  (C led)
   Crack crux, with some jamming and a bulge close to the ground.
   Pretty nice rock.  We made an anchor where it meets Trauma and
   rapped off.  This route is rarely done; I guess because the face
   looks runout (but it's pretty easy).
2. Trauma 5.9  (C led)
   Fun stemming and spent a lot of time trying to put in the best pro
   possible.  Cleaned our Plague anchor and topped out.
3. Ordeal 5.8  (Andy led)
   OK, this one is almost entirely a face climb.
4. The Slot 5.9  (C led)
   Fun overhanging hand crack.  A few exiting moments, when my feet
   wouldn't stay on the rock, and the crack was at times not the right
   size for hand jams.  It started raining at one point, but the
   climb was so steep it didn't bother us.
5. The Roof 5.10c  (C led)
   Like many routes, this one started as an attempt to snag a booty
   biner!  I tried soloing to it, but the last few moves looked too
   tricky.  So we roped up and I led the route.  Some crack climbing
   to reach the roof, and then traversing on gear that got worse
   and worse.  I spent a lot of time trying to get decent pro for the
   last few moves, which looked hard.  Eventually I got a heel hook
   and clipped a biner into the belay slings, but my heel got shakey
   so I ended up grabbing the slings to clip in.
6. Lost Horizons 5.8  (Andy led)
   A fairly fun route, but the crack part is rather easy.
7. Lithium 5.11b  (C toproped)
   I just gave this a brief toprope, since we rapped down it
   to avoid people toproping Stupendous Man.  The upper crux seemed
   quite desperate, as the remaining bits of knobs are much smaller
   than when Dennis and I did the FA.
8. Jorgie's Crack 5.9+  (C led)
   I was getting fairly tired by this point, and this route seemed
   fairly tough.  A bit of climbing up to place gear, back down to
   rest, etc.