Pinnacles 4/18/97   with Dennis Strom
After being kept inside by El Nino all winter, the boys were
in pitiful shape and eager to make up for lost time.  Clint actually
drove for the first time in ages, due to his new rights on the station
wagon!  Found the Cienega Road detour with help from a map, and were
pleased that the rangers were not following their "no cars" plan,
and let us park in the upper lot as usual.  If you want all the
beta on the flood damage/reopening, check out my Pinnacles web page:
  http://www-leland.stanford.edu/~clint/pin/
- Wet Kiss 5.9 (D led)
- The Big Pucker 5.10d tr   (our usual warmups)
- Foreplay 5.11b  Dennis wanted to redpoint this one, as part of his
  '98 goal to redpoint all the 5.11s in Bear Gulch.  The first attempt
  ended at around the second bolt, as he was too far right.  After
  pulling the rope, he made it to the rest at the "pod", but after
  many attempts, couldn't find the sequence to leave the pod.
  He lowered off, and I tied in, using a toprope to his high point.
  I still seem to have this route quite wired, so I mananged to (just
  barely) lead through.  I did have to downclimb the crux once, because
  I blew the footwork there as I invariably do.  I was gripping the rock
  way too hard, so I nearly pumped out, but I was glad to make it.
  Dennis followed, with one fall at the crux.
- Richnak's Revenge 5.11a  Dennis led with one hang, when he blew his
  sequence.  I followed with one fall (blinded by the sun, I tried
  using the holds I could see; no dice).  
- Foreplay 5.11b  Dennis led with a hang at the crux and one at the
  last bolt.  I followed.
The lads were getting pumped, and switched into toprope mode
very early in the day!
- P.O.D. (direct) 5.11a tr  Dennis barely made it, with continual moaning,
  huffing and puffing.  I tried to be as entertaining, but I plunged
  silently when I couldn't hang onto the jug just past the crux.
  Got back on and dynoed through.
- P.O.D. Eliminate Right 5.10d tr  Dennis got it with more huffing; I had
  a hang down fairly low, and was in "wrist wrap" mode on the knobs
  from then on.
- Hawaiian Noises 5.10d tr  We both had a hang.  Yes, this is the route
  I once insisted was 5.10b for tall people, and have had a hard time
  with ever since.
- P.O.D. (indirect) 5.10d tr  Dennis made it.  I tried to start (twice)
  on the left variation, but couldn't hang onto the moderate sized knobs,
  much less release a hand to move upwards.  Also plunged on the right
  variation, then swung over to finish on P.O.D.
At this point, we were unable to hang onto much, and Dennis' knee was
hurting from all the right-leg presses out of the pod on Foreplay.
It was only 5pm, but we just bailed for the car.  It all felt very
strange, not hiking out with headlamps, and driving back in daylight!
But that's the price of essentially 4 months on the couch.  We got
a big pump that we badly needed.

Clint