3/16-17 Valley with Paul Friberg. I know Paul from the internet; he came out last spring. This time I was determined to be in better shape so I could lead a few things! Sat: - Knob Job 5.10b CC led - Lunatic Fringe 5.10c CC led. I was laughingly weak below the second crux -- placed gear but couldn't hang on to clip into it, so I had to climb down to the rest, then go up again to clip... Paul did a nice job following free, without having much crack experience. - Reed's Direct 5.9+ p1: PF led, p2: CC led I wanted to top out, so I led the 5.8 squeeze chimney traverse (p3), and also a 5.9 corner (p4). During this pitch we saw our only clouds of the trip. Paul initially tried to lead the squeeze traverse but didn't find a path he could fit through. It must have been tight in there, because somehow his belay device came loose and disappeared into the depths of the chimney. Sun: (Pat + Jack Pinnacle area) - Skinheads 5.10d we both attempted to lead this, but couldn't get to the 3rd bolt. - Knuckleheads/Trough of Justice 5.10c PF led. He went straight/right above the last bolt, instead of going left to the arete; only feasible for tall folks like us! - Sherrie's Crack 5.10d PF attempted to lead. With the sun roasting the route, pro and crack getting in the way of your feet, etc., I didn't want to try it. - new route left of Sherrie's p1: 5.8 knobs, joins Sherrie's, p2: 5.8, joins p2 of Knob Job just below mantle FA by CC and PF, no bolts. Possible name: "Emergency Crack Avoidance Procedures". (Our hands were sore from all the jamming on Saturday). - Sherries' Crack 5.10d we both TRed the finger crack, now that it was shaded - Mr. Natural 5.10c CC led, PF took a brief fall/hang in the crux area (it was getting quite dark, and he couldn't see some of the footholds)