Snake update 7/94

    Last weekend, Dennis Strom and I came pretty close the the FFA.
We approached from above (by reversing the East Ledges 5.8, like I did with
Bruce a year ago).  Then we rapped down with fixed 9mm ropes,
and cleaned out the remaining dirt/vegetation from the crux and
the ramp below (my special cleaning tool using a hacksaw blade
worked quite well).  We placed 5 3/8" belay bolts (3 anchors) by
hand (starting only after I declared the crux would go free!).  On Saturday
night we did an impromptu bivouac on top, using Dennis' space blanket.
By Sunday noon, we had finished with the cleaning and bolting, so we
put on our free climbing shoes and started toproping.  The ramp went at
5.10d/5.11a, with an ultra-thin tips crux.  The 30' crux pitch loomed above.
It has some good lieback edges, some barely adequate, and some very small.
Dennis stemmed it out and nearly flashed -- one hang.  I took about 5 hangs
when liebacking it.  Dennis returned and TRed it free -- 5.11+.  When we
return, we'll place a bolt at the crux.  Dennis also toproped the long
corner pitch above at 5.11 (#1-2 size Friend crack -- lieback -- similar
to the Good Book but steeper.  The top pitch went at 5.9.

Clint