On June 4-5, I climbed at Donner Summit with Randy Hodge, Dennis Erik 
Strom, and Bruce Fortnam.  We got a late start on Friday night, due to 
last minute logistics, but 3 of us plus Randy's dog Mick piled into 
Dennis' van.  We arrived at about 1am after forgetting that the road was 
closed at Donner Pass and driving around and up from below to Camp 
Hairpin.  On Saturday, Bruce arrived before we got out of camp, and we 
headed for the Black Wall.  Randy and I climbed New Fascination 
(5.10d/5.9/5.10c), while Dennis and Bruce did Empty Overgo 
(5.9+/5.10a/5.10a).  On p1 (New Moon), I did the crux and got under the 
Firecracker roof, when I suddenly had to lower to pay a visit to the 
bushes.  Back up and through the roof.  Randy fell 2x on the 5.10d thin 
to hand section, and then had trouble at the roof with a stuck Friend 
and his untaped hands.  He led the wild p2 5.9, and I led p3 slowly, 
placing much gear, as the wild picked up and he started to get cold in 
his T-shirt.  We met the others on top and combined our ropes for a rap, 
while Randy walked down in his sneakers.  We all donned more clothes, 
and Randy led Pinball Junkie, a 5.10d slanting thin crack to a blank 
move over to the next crack (1 hang).  Then he led a new unnamed crumbly 
5.10+ arete above.  At the same time, Dennis and Bruce did Firecracker 
5.10b and the 5.9 pitch above it.
  On Sunday, we climbed on the East Face of Snowshed.  The road is 
closed just above the parking area.  We started out by me holding a 
clinic in how to tape hands (Andy Embick's way).  Dennis and I climbed 
together.  Dennis led Nova Express 5.9+ hand, and I led Sanitation Crack 
5.10b/c hand.  By this time, Randy and Bruce had ascended Farewell to 
Arms 5.10b, with Randy taking an extra lap to balance all the hangs on 
lead (it's fairly intimidating if you are not in good practice on 
placing gear).  Next Randy worked on leading Little Feat 5.10d arete, 
which has recently been retrobolted, so that it's now longer runout.  He 
got over halfway, but flamed out.  By this time, the wind was getting 
stronger, making the balancey mantle quite wild!  Bruce took over and 
managed to summit, although he was not confident at first.  At the same 
time, Dennis led Drop Out 5.10d, with some hangs, as gear got in the way 
and the upper crack was slightly dirty/sandy in places.  The start 
involves quite an interesting improvisational move past a blank section 
in the crack, and the upper part is quite sustained (Bruce had one hang 
toproping, and Randy bailed due to missing tape).  I TRed Little Feat, 
and Dennis made it about 2/3 up, after finding a way around the roof 
start.  We were pretty blasted by the incessant wind, but on the way 
back to the car, I just had to go for Karl's Gym 5.10d.  I bagged the 
tricky/reachy lower part, and reversed the upper part many times as I 
inched protection up higher and higher.  Finally I went for it, but 
committed to the wrong jug and had to jump off (then I aided to the 
top).  Dennis and Bruce also blew off on the upper crux, but Randy 
managed to save the honor of the team by getting it free.