Last week, Lin Murphy and I went to Smith Rock, somewhat on the spur of the
moment due to a good weather forecast.  The 8.5 hour drive went fairly
easily with the usual stop to camp on the N side of Shasta.
Lin's goal was to try some 12s, while I was ready for anything on TR, along
with the usual vendettas left over from previous trips.  Lin had a copy of
the new guide (by Alan Watts) which is excellent (except possibly for its
listing of routes from right to left -- the usual approach direction, and
inherited from Oregon Rock).  We were outside the day use fee season
(March-September), and the nice campground with showers costs $2 per person
plus $5 per vehicle per night.  Since I didn't make use of the shower,
perhaps I'll investigate camping on USFS land next time....  It was not
crowded like my previous trips; very few fixed draws, and only one
superstar -- we saw Hidetaka Suzuki effortlessly cruise Kings of Rap 5.12d.

Tues (starting at 1pm):
1. Chicken McNuggets 5.10b, L:L, C:TR (Lin led, I toproped).  Fun knobs.
2. Vomit Launch 5.11b, L:TR1h, C:TR (Lin toproped w/ 1 hang, I TRed also).
Mostly huge holds but pumper near the end (obviously less so on TR).
Tricky to set up the TR -- involved placing TCUs in
dicey dirty pockets to protect downclimbing to the chains.
3. Overboard (short) 5.11a/b, C:L1h, L:F1h.  A vendetta that I didn't bag,
although I got close (had clipped the last bolt and was moving past it when
my foot blew, but I was very pumped and worried about the runout above, so
perhaps it was for the best...).
4. Zebra Direct 5.11a, L:L1j, C:F1h.  Lin fell/jumped before the first bolt,
then styled the technical crux.  I fell before following an easier way.
We ran into Pete Carrick (old Stanford bouldering buddy) here.

Wed:
1. Trivial Pursuit 5.10d, C:L, L:F.  An old vendetta; I had TRed when with
Nancy, but couldn't crank it on lead with Joel because of a tendon injury.
2. Karot Tots 5.11b, C:TR.  Not too hard; probably should have led it....
3. Watts Tots 5.12b, L:TRattempt.  Had trouble with the first reachy move.
4. Latest Rage 5.12b, L:TRattempts.  A bit higher, but saving herself for:
5. Latin Lover 5.12a, L:Lmh, C:TRmh.  (mh = many hangs).  Many thin technical
moves.
6. The Clam 5.10a A0 (5.11b).  I led, but aided at the crux move to get
to the long upper section.  This was after my fingers skated off slick slopers.

Thurs:  It sprinkled briefly in the morning.
1. Monkey Space p1 5.11a, L:L1h, C:F.  Wildly exposed and hard to read the
crux on sight, plus Lin's hands were cold.
2. Monkey Space p2 5.11b, C:L, L:F1h.  Straightforward pullups and lockoffs
on jugs on a short steep wall.  Not possible to aid it because half the bolts
on the old aid ladder are broken off.  I climbed up and down 3 times before
getting both bolts clipped and then once more up to bag it.  Easy for my
body type.  Lin had to let go from the final pocket due to tips pain.
3. Moons of Pluto 5.10d, L:L, C:F.  Lin hiked this classic arete.  It now has
a direct finish which we did (when I did it with Joel, we exited right below
the final arete moves, plus I had to hang that time...).

Fri.
1. Dreamin' 5.12a, L:Lattempt1h, C:TRattempt1h.  Stick clipped the first 2
bolts.  Lin was bewildered at the roof.  I found it relatively easy there,
by underclinging a pocket and reaching high, but of course I was too chicken
to lead it.
2. Overnight Sensation 5.11a, L:L1h, C:F.  A very long reach at the last move.
3. Wartley's Revenge p1 5.11b, C:L, L:F1h.  Wild overhanging crack route, with
the big rack (but not big enough; I wanted a #3.5 Friend near the top).  Nearly
all jugs, and interesting to find the rests/hidden holds.  Lin fell on the last
move when she missed a hidden hold.  I had wanted to do this for some time, and
was pleased with the flash, which was right at my limit and in doubt the whole
way.
4. Wartley's Revenge p2 5.10a, L:L, C:F.  Pretty nice untrodden crack; I would
have been scared on the lead due to few jugs.
5. Moondance p1 5.11b, L:L.  Stick clipped first bolt.  Nice job stemming the
upper dihedral in spite of noisy crowd below.  No chance for me to follow due
to darkness.

Sat.
1. Nightingales on Vacation 5.10b, L:L, C:F.  New bolted arete on left margin
of BBQ the Pope buttress.
2. Power Dive 5.12a/b, C:TR1f1h, L:TRaid3h, C:TR1faid1h.  This is the slightly
overhung face above Karate Crack; I scrambled up a gully to set the TR.  After
a fall at the thin, reachy crux, I lowered back to the start and nearly got
it -- I melted from jugs 2 moves from the top.  Lin had to yard at the reachy
crux and rested on bolts.  I took another lap, yarding when unable to crank
the crux, and had to hang again not so near the top.  I'd been wanting to
try this for some time and it was great!  Mostly jugs, and the closest I
came to bagging a "12", although the TR rating is probably < 5.12 due to
reduced pump factor.  We approached up Cinnamon Slab and then stepping left
to the Karate Crack belay, to avoid having to jam Karate Crack.
3. Powder in the Nose 5.10d, L:L, C:F.  Another vendetta for me (had to hang
when following Joel last time).
4. Freebase 5.12a, L:TRmh.  Lin thought this was beautiful and the most
feasible of the 12s she tried.  Just unable to crank through due to tiredness,
etc.  I skipped it due to the late hour, lack of tips, elbows at risk, etc.
(I arrived back in Palo Alto at 3am).

Clint