Over Thanksgiving weekend '93, Dennis Erik Strom and I finished our new route
on the upper west Balconies (Pinnacles West Side).  It's 5.11a (on sight
rating; more like 5.10c if you know what's coming) and has 16 bolts
(2 #4 Friends and a #1 Camalot were also used on the lead).
This was a multi-year project which is only climbable in the fall
due to the usual bird closures from January-June.  The route
is named "If We Bolt It, They Will Come".  Lin Murphy and Andy Gioumousis
also helped work on this route a year or so ago, although they didn't
drill any bolts.
    The route is approached by taking the Balconies Trail uphill,
and then take the "Flumes Formation" branch to the left (newly
improved/reinforced).  Before reaching the backside of the Flumes Formation,
cut straight up the hill (or zigzag on game trails) to the ridge which
overlooks Flumes and Balconies.  A game trail goes north along the crest
of this ridge, to the base of the route (or further to the Crowley Towers).

We also toproped the parallel water streak to the right, which had a
badly crumbling start that neither of us freed.  More holds may break off
and make it impossible, so I'm not too keen on bolting it currently.
However, it could be started by going up the left streak, and then crossing
over to the right at a big bathtub solution pocket.  The upper part of the
streak is great.  Perhaps this fall, we'll work on it if we don't get
distracted by some other project.

Clint