On 5/1-2, Phyllis Ponte and climbed in the Valley (where else -- it's 
May, after all!).  Enjoying perfect weather, we cranked up several familiar 
cracks to get into shape for the upcoming season.

Saturday:
[Reed's Pinnacle Area]
1. Lunatic Fringe 5.10c (Clint led).  A little shaky on the first crux; glad 
there are so many rests.
2. Stone Groove 5.10b (P).  The only route of the weekend that I hadn't done 
before.
[The Cookie]
3. Hardd 5.11a (C attempted).  Ran out of gas 15' from the top (at the last 
hand jam), so I aided up and toproped the finish later.  Phyllis had trouble 
in the wide section down low (not having my long arms), but had arm-barred 
most of it before falling when grabbing a loose flake.  This flamed her out 
a bit (not to mention the shoulder abrasions due in part to the tank top), 
so 2 more hangs were employed on the way up.
4. Crack-a-go-go 5.11c (toprope).  Phyllis was way solid, but slipped on 
easy ground near the top.  We even started from the ground instead of using 
the tree.  As a toprope, it only seems about 5.10d; on lead the 5.11c rating 
would be earned by the enormous pump factor for placing the weird gear.

Sunday:  [back to The Cookie, determined to get pumped again]
5. Outer Limits 5.10b.  Phyllis tried to lead this, but had to hang before 
even reaching the long hands section.  She got just a few moves up the hands 
part before hanging and lowering off.  This was reminiscent of the very 
first time I tried to lead it, too -- it's intimidating.  So I led it, and 
it felt less pumper than in the past (perhaps due to the toprope on the 
first section).  Phyllis fell following, while laybacking part of the hands 
section.  At this point, Dennis Strom showed up (partnerless), and we rested 
while another person led it and Dennis eventually got a turn and toproped it 
with great ease.
6. Waverley Wafer 5.10c (C).  It seemed a lot easier than in the past (I had 
only led it free once); probably due to Stealth rubber and just using my 
feet better, plus the accumulated beta.  Phyllis hung trying to clean some 
gear, and Dennis cruised.
7. Catchy 5.10d (D).  He cruised, and we had fun following.  On the way 
down, I spent 30 minutes trying to score a booty #2 Friend, but had no luck.  
Phyllis and I hiked out as Dennis was attempting to get it.

My endurance is not at the 5.11 level, but it's better than I had planned on 
(Waverley was an unexpected bonus).  Phyllis and I have a way to go before 
we can really call ourselves "team A-man", but there is no big rush.

Clint