Gunks     5/1-3/92

Dan Nguyen and I had a good 3-day trip to the Gunks.  We were a little
rusty at first placing gear (Dan hadn't placed gear for a year, although
he had recently been redpointing 7b at Buoux).  The weather was friendly,
raining at night, and the black flies bothered a little.  I hadn't been
there for 8-15 years, but I remembered where all the climbs were.  We
never had to wait in line on the routes we chose (most of the crowds are
on the easier routes), and it was fun to finally "break the 5.11 barrier"
there.  Didn't get to Skytop, Lost City, or to any old "vendettas" but
had many classic cranks.  All routes were ** or ***.  Thanks to Bob,
Wayne, Joel, and John for the beta!

Friday:
Nosedive 5.10b (Clint led) slow, as I remembered how to place gear in
 the non-uniform cracks there.
No Solution 5.11+ tr -- I stopped before getting established above the
 first roof.  Dan made that move after some tries, but had to batman
 higher.
Erect Direction 5.10c (D).  Hard committing to the layback on the first
 roof.  The double rope technique was somehow botched, so we belayed
 under the second roof, but this affords a spectacular view of the
 leader heel-hooking at the lip!  Not to mention wildly asking if he
 had a #3 Friend!  Plus I got to calculate how directly I'd be hit if
 he blew from there.  Higher the double rope technique proved useful,
 as one of the ropes jammed in a small flake and he had to untie from
 it.  Wild route, and fun to have a minor epic.
Directississima 5.10d (tr).  Looked challenging to lead with the
 initial pins gone.  Just as good as when I did it many years ago --
 incredible incuts and position.
Ridiculissima 5.10d (tr - would be 5.11 to lead).  Another good one
 that I've always wanted to try.  Radical angle and some less obvious
 moves.

Saturday:
Yellow Wall 5.10c (D/C).  I led pitch 1 a bit long to a single
 (new/replaced) bolt (w/ TCU backup).  Dan traversed to the apparent
 crux roof and clipped + placed gear, grabbed the holds several times,
 but couldn't commit to the move.  So I did it.  It's an easy reach
 for me, but might be 5.11 for shorter folks.  I backed off of pitch
 3, not wanting to leave the "loose flake" to commit to the PG stem.
Ukranian Wedding and Feast VI ***.  Featured a wild drive (7 miles from
 Gunks, we arrived 10 minutes late but didn't miss anything), all services
 in Ukranian, and a nearly all-night feast that broke our sport-climbing
 diets.  Two pumpkins in the tent at midnight with thunder + lightning.

Sunday:
Simple Suff 5.10a (C).  Interesting stemming and angle!
Kligfield Follies 5.11+ tr.  Surprised myself being able to free this.
 Dan passed due to the initial reach moves and lack of sleep.
Frustration Syndrome 5.10c (C).  3 booty wires and 2 biners beckoned, and
 it was a good climb, too.  I had to hang at the last move when I ran out
 of strength placing gear above my waist.  We both tr-ed a more direct
 5.11 start featuring a long lunge at the end.