Yosemite:  Butterballs   9/7/91

I met Marc Sheppard in the Valley on Friday/Saturday.  We had some big
plans, but the weather featured thunderstorms.  On the day I drove up,
Marc and John Frank got rained on at pitch 14 of the West Face of El Cap.
They managed to sit out the worst of it and aid their way up the last 5
pitches; then an all-night series of bivvies and hikes eventually brought
them down the Falls trail and back to El Cap Meadow at about 10am.  We all
took a rest day, as clouds threatened and eventually cut loose.  Saw Greg
and Alan topping out on the Pacific Ocean Wall (and talked to them once
they hiked down).  They had an interesting storm experience, too (Alan
belaying in a river as Greg finished a hard pitch).  Alan blew another of
my "A5" homemade rivet hangers (I thought he knew better than to use them!)

On Saturday, it turned sunny, so I led Bev's Tower after a short attempt
at starting Aftershock.  Marc decided to go for Butterballs, although we
had only brought a rack for Wheat Thin (i.e. only one #1 Friend instead of
the recommended 5)!  He nearly made it anyway, looking solid to the crux,
in spice of back cleaning, and then taking a few hangs.  I had fun on TR,
feeling solid except for the short crux wider section.  I had been avoiding
this route for years, but now I'll be back!