Yosemite: Critical Path, Bucket Brigade, Pink Panther 6/8-9/91 On Saturday, Anne Smith and I completed the first ascent of Critical Path 5.11a, just right of the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. The first pitch is a rising traverse with 5 bolts that starts 30' down the gully right of the East Buttress (belay to the left of a bushy ledge). The face climbing crux is at the 5th bolt, with sharp orange footholds but only microedges for the tips. It's 5.10+/5.11-; we're not used to rating such a no-hands move. The bolt is placed so that the second can reach back and unclip it after making the move. Just after this, a TCU protects a small 5.10b lunge to the main crack system. The crack crux (at least 5.10d) follows, a short but severely right-leaning thin lieback flake with sloping face holds, and a 2-bolt belay stance is reached. Anne flashed this lead, while I took a fall at the face traverse. I led the next pitch, a 90' right facing corner (5.10c), which features 2 20' sections of fingerlocks and some easier liebacking. Those looking for a 5.11 pump can avoid the 2 rest ledges on the right; the left wall overhangs most of the way and protects the belay stance from possible afternoon rockfall (the route lies below the upper part of the East Buttress). I must forfeit my title as a supposed wall expert, since I forgot the haul line as I rushed into the lead; Anne followed with the sack and trailing the haul line, gaining significant pump points. After a belay on a sloping ledge, the obvious continuation up the corner should be avoided, as it involves 5.8 scary flakes and awkward moves. Instead, drop down 8' on the left (5.7) and make an easy traverse left to a fine 5.6 hand crack which intersects the East Buttress at its classic 5.7 lieback corner pitch. After bagging this pitch, 2 2-rope raps return you to the ground (our first rap hung up on a small flake 20' up and left of the second anchor, but I've made these raps three times before without incident). The main corner is an obvious feature from El Cap Meadow; the main question was how to reach it, and we solved that. We spent 14 hours a week ago cleaning the route and placing the bolts (on rappel, 5/16", sealed against weathering; could have been placed on lead if we wanted to spend an extra day on the route). A large fraction of time was spent trundling blocks from the upper corner, which may save the lives of people who miss the traverse but contributed to a marathon windblown dirt storm that left us too blinded to free the route that day. Jim and Dave kindly waited for us to hike down that night and helped on the marathon drive back. Check out the route; it's got high-quality moves and a great line. We had enough time left on Saturday to try Separate Reality (a 18' 5.11d roof crack). I pumped out at my same high point (where it thins down from solid hands), but at least this time I was on lead placing my own gear. Anne found the crack was too wide for her to get solid jams, so she got some aid practice. Not enough time to check out Tales of Power (too bad, it's probably a perfect hand size for Anne). Hung out in the campground with Alan, Bonnie, Greg, Paul, and Annie before being booted for "off-road driving in a National Park" (i.e. parking out of the designated slot). Greg provided valuable beta on Beggar's Buttress (2 5", 1 6" Friend needed, demanding pitches), as well as tales of crux hiking to/from the West Face of El Cap and Nutcracker that day. Mosquitoes hounded us as the base of El Cap as we watched Don and Chandlee's headlamps high above (they were topping out on Nose-in-a-day). On Sunday we avoided Beggar's Buttress and headed for the Killer Pillar (on Elephant Rock). It was fairly easy to find, a 10-15 minute mostly level trail from the road. We TRed the right side -- Bucket Brigade 5.11c overhanging face/arete. The jugs are great; the angle and exposure are wild. Anne had 2 falls (1 where there are misleading chalk marks up the arete and it's best to traverse left early). I used this instant beta, but nearly melted off the steep upper crux. Highly recommended, and I hope to return someday to do the even wilder left arete (Kauk photo/ad does not do it justice). Still seeking shade, mosquito repellent was purchased and we visited the upper left Chapel Wall. We sieged Pink Panther 5.11a/c arete/face, where Anne clipped the crux bolt that had eluded all other parties that day. I led the other parts with a hang at the crux bolt for a useful shoelace tightening. This enabled us to set a TR on 96 Degrees in the Shade 5.12a/b. We avoided the contrived early moves, and I had a dog-a-thon at the midway crux (my ribs are still feeling it), plus tension to reach the final arete. Anne cruised through the midway crux with inspiring style, then carefully worked out the moves to set up for the arete. Her hand slipped here, ending the flash just inches short of the arete. The efforts had nicely taken our remaining strength and we headed for home. Clint P.S. Due to Nancy's upcoming baby, I won't be climbing on weekends for several months, so you are all granted a rest from my weekly ravings. I'll still go to Handley (but maybe not until dark), but this doesn't qualify for email, except possibly the new line I "freed" last week: High Pockets 5.11d -- 3 new pockets and an enhanced edge between the overhang and the Green Strip (blame the continued carving on Bill??).