Pinnacles:  Chunky Monkey started    6/29/91

I thought I was on vacation from climbing, but Chris Bellizzi called up late
on Friday, desperate for a partner, and convinced Nancy to let me join him for
Saturday.  The weather was actually nice and cool, and we started a new route
right of Steve's Folly after convincing ourselves that it wasn't directly above
the trail (rocks that come off land on a slope instead of directly on the trail
).  We got 4 bolts in, and there's possibly one more to go for the final bulge
(I did the moves but was not bold enough to hang from a sling on a sloping knob
to drill the bolt, but am ready for next time).  The start is steep with a 5.11
move and the final bulge is also interesting.  Then we proceeded on the
standard pump circuit -- Chris led Verdict, Between a Rock and a Hard Place,
Future Shock, Piton Traverse Direct, and Ape Index.  My finger got sore again
from thrashing/lunging on Future Shock, and it caused hangs on Piton Traverse,
so I passed on Ape Index.  Ran into the locals -- Rubine, Davis, Rich.  They
put up 2 new 5.11a routes left of Between a Rock and a Hard Place -- Racing
Stripe is a bolted black groove, and Melvin is 4 bolts on overhanging knobs,
both leading to a cold shuts anchor 70' up.  Melvin looks good after the
initial bad rock.  These boys also have 5 pitches completed on Golden Years
(5.12), right of Slab Happy Pinnacle (Yosemite); they say only 5.10 slabs bar
the way to the top.  Also access to the Back Door (aka Sunwheel Wall, Pinnacles
) is open again, but I believe to toproping only.  There is some confused
memo about leading but not clipping the first bolt.  A retaining wall was built
to keep rocks from falling down to the Caves trail below, but I believe they
want to eliminate foot travel at the base of the wall.  Bird closures are not
lifted yet, but should be soon for those eager to experience 100-degree heat!