Pinnacles:  Crackaphobia finished, Mission Impossible  4/7/91

I met Jon McConachie at 6am PDT in San Jose for a trip to Pinnacles West Side.
We completed our new route, Crackaphobia 5.10c, which is 90' high on Machete
Ridge, left of Son of Dawn Wall and joins the old Pigeon Crack aid route.
I led, placing a third bolt and a fair amount of natural gear -- the crack/seam
opens occasionally, forming big pockets and solid buckets.  It starts with
crux reaches on hand jams (tape useful!) to pass the initial bulge, then some
fingerlocks to face climbing.  It may be difficult for short people to make the
moves reaching the first bolt.  A full set of TCUs and Friends is useful, also
useful are a small stopper (#3? -- smaller than #1 Rock) and a #4 Rock.  Above
the third bolt, the #4 Friend placement may now be to shallow, so a new bolt
may be required.  Due to the natural gear required, we're not predicting that
this will be a popular route!
    After placing the belay bolts, removing loose rock + scrubbing on rap, we
then hiked up to the Citadel and did Mission Impossible 5.10c ***.  The steep
rock, incut holds, and length make it a real classic, in spite of some strange
bolt placements, some possibly enhanced holds, and it's rap-placed history.
Since it's in the shade, it can also be done even in the summer.  It has 13
bolts (some well spaced -- I was not used to that after all this sportclipping)
and it's 150'.  My topo only showed 8 bolts, and I nearly ran out of gear, but
I guess that's justice (beware, the topo in the new guide is probably identical
).