Smith Rock:   3/16-18/91
Subject:      2.5 day weekend at Smith Rock

I picked up Wayne at the San Jose airport at 11:30pm Friday night, and we
drove directly to Smith Rock (8.5 hours, with 3 hours of sleep at Shasta).
It was clear and sunny when we arrived at 11am, so we bolted for the crags,
finding them actually slightly too hot.  Wayne led Wedding Day 5.10b, Skeleton
Surfers 5.11b, and Overboard 5.11a, and I followed woozily.  Wayne had a little
trouble due to daze from driving and the long winter layoff.  Sunday was nice,
too, and I led Headless Horseman 5.10d, Wayne led Magic Light 5.11a, we both
led Toxic 5.11b (I fell when I missed the lunge the first time, oh well,
Scott Franklin didn't flash it either...), Wayne led Ring of Fire 5.11d (we
both hung at the short crux section).  I led Tator Tots 5.10b to set a toprope
on Latest Rage 5.12b, but I screwed it up, so Wayne led it bolt to bolt (to
the last bolt, crux above).  My tr attempt featured several hangs between the
sustained hard moves -- an impressive route.  Wayne got up on the crux a few
times, and eventually practiced falling there (he hadn't led anything during
the long Amherst winter, but had been climbing indoors).  His shoes were also
not edging well, so he got some new pink Boreal ones on Monday.  It snowed
on Monday morning, and stayed cloudy, so we hiked to the basalt gorge.
The sun cleared briefly, and Wayne led Colorsplash 5.10c/d, a hand to finger
crack with a sandbag rating of 5.10b.  It was sustained and he ran out of TCUs
where they would have been useful to protect upper lieback moves (hangs were
used to get wires in).  We then toproped a 5.11c face/stem to its left, as rain
tried to fall again.  There are many interesting bolted 5.11 and 5.12 stem and
arete problems nearby.  Tuesday it was cloudy again, so we drove back, enjoying
interesting scenery with mixed clouds, rain, snow, and sun.