Pinnacles:  Jorgie's Direct, Son of Dawn Wall  2/9-10/91

On Saturday we climbed at Discovery Wall with John Novat, Andy, and Alice.
We also had good views of Anne and Jim cranking the rads on the Monolith
(Cataract Corner, Future Shock, ...).  We warmed up on the Wet Kiss 5.9, which
has a new bolt near the top (placed by one of the FA party) to provide a
separate finish from the Big Pucker.  Then I spent 3 hours doing a free finish
(5.10b) to Jorgie's Crack, placing 2 bolts.  There was an old fixed pin down
low on it, but I'm not sure if it was the old Rohrer aid finish because I
didn't see the 2 bolts mentioned in the Chuck Richards guide.  The finish takes
an airy ramp out left from the usual bolt belay and requires a #0 Metolius TCU.
Nancy followed; John had problems on the first pitch like last time.  John,
Nancy, and Andy finished up by toproping Ordeal.  Alice led Swallow Crack and
Portent, and followed Andy on Dead Bird Crack and The Big Pucker (having some
trouble with the roof, but cranking the upper section).
We also ran into Jon McConachie and
Kelly Wells, who had done the second ascent of Jon's new route Voyeur 5.8+,
which is left of Scorpion and has 3 bolts and a fixed pin.

On Sunday I climbed on the West Side with Jon McConachie, where we spent a lot
of time checking out new route possibilities on the Toogs formation, but not
finding them quite worth it.  We played "rock police" briefly by telling a
party on Lava Falls that it was closed due to the birds, but we let them get
away with climbing on Smiling Simian.  I declined to lead Toogs Trailside,
which Jon informed me was really 5.10b and dangerous at the start.  I also
declined on Escape From Soledad 5.9, which Jon led with a hang after getting
off route.  Loose flakes on this one, not recommended.  I led the first pitch
of Son of Dawn Wall 5.11b with 2 hangs.  The crux was one of those faces where
you can't see the next holds but you have to bring your feet high (and get
pumped), hoping the holds are there.  I had also hoped the big boulder would
be a good lunge target (I was wrong) and didn't see the good finger pocket
next to it until I was en (2nd) hang.  Jon got pumped and grabbed a couple
of draws at the crux, also getting a good workout on the upper part.  We had
hoped to do the next 2 pitches, but the sun was setting so we bailed.

I heard from Ranger Tim that Chockstone did the layout for the guide and David
Rubine made final corrections to it, so it really seems likely now that it will
be out this spring.  Tim said it is "big", which is not surprising given that
the text of the route description was 100 pages, and the topos, maps, photos,
and intro material will add many more pages too that.  Fortunately I think I'm
going to get a free copy....