Pinnacles:  started If We Bolt It, They Will Come   11/3/90
Subject:      Ideal partner for Pinnacles?

Worked on a new route solo in Pinnacles on Saturday.  Due to late notice it was
near impossible to find a partner, which provided a convenient excuse for going
solo.  I belayed myself using the old Barnett System (Advanced Rockcraft).
Have used this before, mostly for aid climbs, and aid is a fairly accurate
description of what I was doing.  I'd make a few free moves until the last
bolt was just below my feet, then hang a thin sling over a knob and drill
another.  Lessons were relearned:  I tire quickly while drilling, and my legs
tend to go to sleep from harness pressure.  At least there was no suffering
belayer getting sunburned and dodging the rain of rocks.  The route now has
5 bolts and will probably need another 10-15; proposed name is Nancy's Knobs.
The rock was fairly solid except the initial moves and a knob that I hung from
to place the 4th bolt -- it blew when I was using it for a foothold, but I was
holding a major jug at the time so I didn't fall.  One item of interest is that
there was already a bolt at the base of this route (placed by standing on the
ground), and another bolt in the streak just to the right.  Technically I may
have been "claim jumping" on somebody's project, but I saw these bolts as only
a token claim, since no real leading had taken place.  Also, I'm of the opinion
that only one project can be "reserved" per person; otherwise there is too much
incentive to start routes and not enough incentive to finish them (there are
approximately 6 and 9 projects by two activists that I know of).