Mt. Whitney East Face, Oz, Fairest of All   9/6-10/90

Took a 5 day weekend to bag various classics with John Imbrie (flown out on
Dennis' frequent flyer ticket).
Thurs: drove to Whitney Portal w/ Nancy, met her dad Jack who had gotten the
permits at 7:30am by leaving Pasadena at 2am (helpful Boston jetlag).  Avoided
most of the bushes and camped at 11K.  John+Dennis hit the trail at dusk, but
managed to camp at about 10.3K (Lower Boy Scout Lake), and met up with us in
the morning.
Fri: did the East Face (Fresh Air Traverse), although Jack was feeling weak so
he went up the Mountaineers Route instead.  Back down to camp at LBS Lake
instead of going to car, as we were bushed.  Strange booty: chalkbag+watch.
Sat: hiked out, drove to Mammoth Ranger Station and negotiated for permits near
Minaret Lake (full).  Eventually, Nancy and I backed out, leaving John+Dennis
to hike in partway to Minaret Lake after 5:30pm.  Not before we all had some
fun toproping on tuff at Deadman's Summit, though.
Sun: Nancy and I did Oz.  Nancy had a little trouble, taking a fall on both
cruxes, so we didn't do the Gram (maybe someday).  Bolts on the second pitch
have been replaced (the 2 unnecessary ones were just pulled).  Roland's belay
just below the corner is gone (but I never used it).  The hexes are gone from
the final corner pitch, and there is still only one bolt atop that pitch.
Also led the 5.10c route right of Oz while we were waiting for the people ahead
of us to get up a ways on Oz -- not very continuous and some loose flakes +
lichen.  John+Dennis had a real long day doing Clyde "the Glide" Minaret SE
face.  5 other parties on the route, route finding trouble at start, started
rap down E face and had to reverse (rap S face), long hike out in the dark;
met us near Tioga at 12:40pm (Dennis didn't drive all night to make it to
work on Monday morn, but probably got there around noon).
Mon:  John+I did Fairest of All, 9 pitches + scrambling in 6 hours.  A bolt has
been added to the first pitch (unnecessary because you can place pro in the
crack).  John cruised the arch pitch (6), while I had fun on the traverse pitch
(it was Joel's lead back in '85 or so).  John even slipped following the crux,
so at least we know we weren't doing something way too easy.  Amazing that he
wasn't very tired from Clyde.  Dropped him off at SFO with 2.5 hours to spare.