Yosemite:  Knobby Wall   3/10/90
Subject:      weekend washout

Joe Shiefman and I headed for the Valley after the fine weather on Thursday
and Friday, but it was cold and it started raining before noon.  We then
went to the 120-degree Knobby Wall (near the Cookie), so we could at least get
a good pump, even if we couldn't do any crack climbing.  First we did the one
on the far right (5.11c w/o obscene name).  I had dogged it before with Joel
so I did it twice without falls.  Joe had trouble with the first move (as
Joel also had), but the route is bolted now so he could get past it and dog
his way to the top.  Then we moved the tr over to Meltdown 5.12+.  The nice
Metolius ring bolts it had have been chopped, and a couple of Metolius hangers
have been hacksawed on it -- apparently the old battle between rap bolters
and on-lead bolters.  It does have sufficient bolts for leading if you use
crack pro in the lower flake.  I made it to the top of the flake (after blowing
the initial lung once), but it was wet there and I slimed off after 2 more
moves (not near the crux area).  Joe didn't get the long sideways lunge for
the flake.  Fortunately we also belayed here with a second rope to prevent
nasty swings backwards into the boulders.  Drove home through rain and snow;
this weather can't last.