Pinnacles:  Flies on a Pile, Mammary Pump, Cosmos  2/24-25/90
Subject:      Drilling Fields

Saturday:  West Pinnacles with Hubert Shen.  Our goal was to scout out a
proposed new route on the arete on the left side of Machete Ridge.
Started from below Chockstone Dome on the Denny/Colliver start to Tiburcio's
Ambush (1 bolt, TCUs, 5.7 to Friend belay).  Following was more hazardous,
as the rope cut through dirt and rocks on the slab, showering the trail with
pebbles (fortunately, Hubert was wearing his helmet).  The next pitch was
new, starting with a loose corner, then reaching left to a large incut knob
(5.9 crux), which I slung to place the first bolt.  Easy diagonal left to
the second bolt, then I went further left and up good uncuts on a blunt
arete (needs a third bolt).  Hubert followed straight up from the 2nd bolt.
The belay was from 2 old bolts on an old incomplete aid route.  I tried to
go left across a ledge on a steep wall above, but it was hideously loose.
Then I tried lower, where the old aid route came up a major ramp.  There it
is possible to step onto the left side of the arete, which is good rock (dark
brown, with many large knobs).  It was too late for more drilling, though, so
we rapped back down the new pitch and traversed right to rap down Machete
Direct.  I also checked out a new JR project (2 colored bolt hangers of 6 bolts
) on the other arete left of ours.  Our arete is very long, and will take a lot
of drilling (too bad they don't allow use of the Bosch).

Sunday:  East Pinnacles with Joe Shiefman, Nancy, and Renata.  Tried to lead
Mammary Pump (rated 5.11c, we think 5.11a/b).  Got confused by the apparent
second bolt, which is actually a new variation in progress.  Got on route,
cranked the jugs, clipped a couple of bolts, and hung.  The third bolt is
hard to clip, being a ways right of the actual moves (placed on aid from
previous bolt).  I was pumped and didn't realize it was only 2 more moves to
easy ground (but appeared runout to next bolt).  Finished after the hang,
then Joe and Nancy tried it, each also taking a hang.  Clint and Nancy got
it free on TR on second tries, but Joe didn't make it.  Met Dave Rubine,
Chris Bellizzi, Marc Jensen + new kid.  Discussed guide, ratings, my bolt on
Verdict, etc.  Dave had just taken a fall when a hook blew and his drill
broke off in the hole; hurt his shoulder a bit.  He's real nice; Bellizzi
is slightly loud but good humored (and likes to drop the names of routes he's
done).  Bellizzi led Forty Days of Rain 5.12b with a hang, although he almost
got it first try but a hold broke and he didn't have the strength left to pull
off the harder move (great falling announcement -- "I'm melting! ... Incoming!"
).  A very strong lad!

Then I led Cosmos 5.11a/b to round out the day.  As usual, it seemed a bit
harder the second time, and I had to reverse the initial traverse setup moves
a few times.  I was a bit nervous on the remaining clips, but I made it.
Then I set to work on installing a belay chain at a good stance just before
the wall kicks back.  The first bolt was way epic (40 minutes?) because my
drill was dull from Saturday and the tip broke off deep in the hole.  I changed
to a new drill for the second hole.  Joe made the initial setup but didn't
try the short lunge to the bucket.  Nancy lunged to the bucket, but her feet
were out of position so she blew.  By this time it was getting rather dark
so they didn't get more tries.