Mickey's Beach 2/4/90 A good rainstorm on Saturday night after Pinnacles. On Sunday I went to Mickey's Beach with Robert Hollywood, and we ran into Bill Wagner there. We tried 4 routes on the main face. The two right hand ones were bolted but there are 3 routes described in that area (all as tr), so I'm not sure which they were. Bill and Mike made it to under the roof on Flounder 5.13b. I made it highest on Scorpio 5.12b -- cranked from the lip of the roof over left to a semi-jug, but had to dog out the sequence above. Even dogging I couldn't get more than 2 more moves (didn't get into the stem). Bill made it to the lip jam once; most of the time people got stopped on the 5.11 move below the roof where you have to reach up and pinch a flake, and then turn it into a lieback. On the right side, left route (5.12c), I made it to the second roof on my second try but ran out of gas. A third attempt, now dogging, got the lunge from the undercling to the high pinch, then working the left hand up dynamically on sideclings for opposition. More hangs got to better holds higher and I even got my foot on, but I was completely pumped and couldn't hang on. Bill cruised solidly to just below the second roof, but couldn't manage the hideous 5.11 pinch and pocket sidepull move to reach the roof, which he has done before. On the right bolted route (5.12c or 5.11d). There is a nice jugged 5.10c 30' start which then gets real hard at the bulge. I got about 3 hard moves in the bulge, but I had to grab a wet sidecling which then defeated my fingerlock above with the wet hand. I didn't see any holds to go for above anyway. Maybe next time when it's dry. The beach crack looks incredibly good, and of course I want to try it next time when it's warmer. The rock was great, and an added feature was most of the chalk was washed off, so often many holds had to be quickly felt before choosing a decent one. It was real hard, though, reinforcing my feeling that several of the Pinnacles' harder routes are overrated by 2-3 letter grades.