Astroman, first 4 pitches of Nose free   9/30-10/1/89

Did Astroman on Sunday with Marc Sheppard, but we didn't free the whole thing
and also had to pull a "shiver-bivver" on top.  On Saturday morning the weather
was still cloudy and the rock was soggy, but the sun came out and we did the
first 4 on the Nose as a warm-up.  I led pitches 1 (left crack; well protected)
and 3, while Marc led the harder ones (2: gear is in the jams, 4: he only had
to aid one move in blank corner).  Since it was dry, not too taxing, and I got
it with no falls, we were psyched and slept near the base of Astroman that
night, where we ran into Bob Palais + John Ackerley coming down from the Prow
(wetness, lack of time, too many ugly fixed heads, ...).

On Astroman, I took the odd pitches and Marc the even.  We soloed 1 (I clipped
a fixed line for the last move), 3 seemed easy, and the first taint was Marc's
lower and 2 hangs on the 4th (quite the classic enduro pitch!).  My first taint
was on the 5, where I had only 1 3.5 Friend for the last 35 feet -- I hung on
it and had Marc send me a 3 from the belay.  On 7 (the Harding slot), I aided
on 3 pieces gaining entrance to the chimney (so did Marc).  I did the upside
down lieback/stem with no problem, but got bicep cramps trying the first
entrance move, so I aided.  I doubt I could have freed the next moves even
without the cramps!  The slot itself was no problem for me; Marc also aided the
same section plus he got a bit stuck in the slot and some tugging was needed to
free him!  On 8 he found a way around the 5.11b lieback (just right).  On 9 I
hand traversed left to avoid the 5.11a mantle.  Above, I tried the face moves
left of the arete, but it was too runout and I was getting rope drag, so I
went up the crack (on aid, cramps again).  I did get the 5.11b top section with
no problems, though.  We plowed up the next 2 fist cracks (having taped after
the Harding Slot), but it got dark before Marc started the last pitch.  He led
it on aid with the headlamp, and I followed in the dark.  The headlamp battery
was fading badly, so we had to bivvy on top after finding a good bed of pine
needles (we had hats, turtlenecks/pile shirt, long pants, etc.).  I learned how
to climb fist cracks up there, but I don't enjoy them that much, so I'm not
that eager to repeat except as a workout.  My cramps were due to the hauling
(3 liters of water was right, but the boots for descent were heavy).  It was
good to finally try it even though we didn't free it.  If there was a way to
avoid cramps/hauling, I think I could lead all of it except the 4th (I think
it was only 5.10d to follow, but solid 5.11c to lead).  The final pitch is a
question mark, but at least it has several fixed pins so it's safe (I know
they're solid because I yarded and stood on them...).  Don't know if I'll be
back for a repeat; certainly not before trying the West Face of El Cap, and not
without matches next time!