Calaveras Dome, Sargent Rock, Phantom Spire/Robert's Crack  10/28-29/89
Subject:      frosty lads

Went to Calaveras Dome with Marc Sheppard, in spite of cool weather, and we
got frosted.  Tried a new line there left of Time Traveler; the first pitch
had been done and was only 5.9 knobs and shallow corner.  Marc got plenty
cold belaying.  He tried the second pitch, a shallow flaring finger crack,
but only got up 15' before it became technical hard 5.11.  We'll be back
when our tips aren't frozen!  Checked out other routes there; Rainbow's End
looks very nice, although there is a little squeeze chimney action and end
of first pitch and start of second.  Also checked out Sargent Rock, toproping
the 30' 5.11c/d finger crack.  I got it with a semi-lieback technique; Marc
didn't have much luck.  Three stars, for sure.
The routes on Sargent Rock itself also look very nice.
We drove to Phantom Spires Saturday night, because I thought there was not
enough to do at Sargent for our partial Sunday, but we were greeted by 6" of
snow at the campsite (6000') -- a frosty night.  We only did one pitch:
Robert's Crack (I led).  It's supposed to be runout 5.10d before reaching
the crack, but it's more like one 5.10a move 8' up and a 5.8 move reaching
the crack, with a narrow (Spectra) runner on the horn to your left.  Some
5.10b moves getting past 2 pins, then 5.7 to the upper corner.  Here it
goes to tips and thinner, maybe 5.10b reaching a sling on an old pin (another
pin fell out and dangles from the same sling...).  More like 5.11a stemming
there (not 5.10c) -- I yarded on the sling, but Marc followed free.  We exited
the right side of the roof and up 5.7 knobs -- a 140' pitch, plus 20' to reach
the anchor on top.  The 5.11d to the left looked a lot less impossible than
last time, but attempts on it will have to wait; we took off so Marc could make
his 7pm flight to Bakersfield.