Phantom Spires  6/10-11/89

With N + R + Alice + Sean.  Grabbed many knobs in
good weather, in spite of nearby thunderheads.  All 4 of us did 6 routes on the
Middle Spire (5.5 Tyro's Testpiece was Sean's lead, then I led 5.7 Over Easy
and we tr'd Lean and Mean, Cornflakes, and 3 variations).  I tried the 5.11 tr
crack, getting a titanic pump and stepping right to rest for 5 minutes before
cranking the final overhanging 6 feet.  Then I led Candyland
5.10c again and Nancy nearly followed -- she stood on the final 2 knobs after
doing nearly all the moves (2 sling pulls and 1 fall), but couldn't reach the
knob right of the final crack.  We all got a great workout.
Sunday was slightly cloudy, which was good because Renata had gotten a slight
sunburn from reflected rays.  We also hid here in a good boulder cave.
We did the One Way pinnacle 2 ways after building a 2.5' cheat stone pile.
Then I led Jugs Revisited, placing a bolt at the upper 5.8 crux.  What was
once 5.8 R is now quite safe and more accessible to moderate climbers as it
should be.  One of the first ascent party climbs 5.12 routes so I can see how
he didn't need the bolt when he did it...