Calaveras Dome, Lover's Leap  6/24-25/89

6/24:  Calaveras Dome with Marc Sheppard (he's staying at Bob Palais'
and is doing the Salathe' with him right now; I climbed in the Needles with
him last year).  We did Time Traveller (12 pitches, 5.10b) left of War of
the Walls, using the bootleg topos from Adrian Juncosa.  The ratings for
most pitches were too high by 2 grades or letter grades; it was a pretty
moderate route with only 10' of 5.10b (the first 10') and 30' of 5.10a
on a higher pitch.  It was hot there and it kept trying to rain so we
left for...

6/25:  Lover's Leap -- did The Hourglass 5.10b and added a bolt belay/rappel
anchor below the loose-looking 5.11a last pitch (we rapped).  Got a look at
Hourglass Wall which has a lot of fixed pins (and a RURP).  Started out
trying Wallflower but it didn't look so good.  The route further left looks
better.   Then Marc led Mainline 5.11c thin hand -- 3 hangs but I followed
clean.  There's a trick foothold on the right edge of the crack which I had
heard about that helps a lot.