Valley:  started Perfect Vision   4/7-9/89

     Joel and I had a good 3-day trip to the Valley, in spite of a real heat
wave.  On day one, I spent some time training my telescope on El Cap, checking
out the features in detail.  We were already feeling lazy due to the heat when
we headed for Serenity Crack and Sons of Yesterday.  Those routes turned out to
be crowded, so we did Super Slide instead.  Not recommended -- much dirt and
loose/crumbly stuff, except for 20' on pitch 3.  We really got baked in the sun
and were glad to get down.  Did find booty on the ground, though -- a red DMM
T-cross section biner, and an REI biner with a set of wired Rocks (1-6) on
board!  We headed for the shady Chapel Wall, where Joel led Gold Dust, using
the right crack system.  Quite thin in spots and rather steep.  We scoped the
new bolted face routes there.  Had a nice night at the El Cap Hilton.
     Day 2:  we hiked up the Spires gulley to check out a possible new route
right of Braille Book.  It looks good -- maybe 4 pitches if some questionable
sections have enough knobs.  Established the first pitch after the sun went
around the corner at 1pm.  3 5/16" bolts plus a 5/16" and 3/8" belay anchor,
about 5.9.  Looks a lot steeper above!  Joel did a direct start to the pitch
which was great, so we will probably add a 4th bolt for it.  The bolts went in
slowly, and I broke my new drill after 4 holes, so I think I'm drilling wrong.
Perhaps I should pound less heavily, but more frequently.  Will try this out
on the next pitch next weekend!  Got down late, meeting Nancy and Renata 1 hour
later than planned (they were just about to drive out!).  Had tasty burritos,
and headed for the Hilton, where Renata slept well.
     Day 3:  Headed for shady Sentinel Creek area, where Joel made a very
stylish lead of Manana (5.10d flash).  I had a lot of trouble following, and
wondered why I had recalled it as being "casual".  Maybe it was the tape on the
lower section (1") and no chalk on the upper thin section.  At least I didn't
fall.  Then I led the vegetated Hara Kiri (5.10a) and we TR'd Yin Yang 5.10d/
5.11a.  Yin Yang had easier cruxes but would be harder to lead than Manana
because the hard sections are longer and thinner.  Then we checked out some
potential new routes near Mental Block, which involved some jingus 3rd and 4th
classing for both of us.  Fortunately we managed to extract ourselves with just
one rappel and made it to the car before dark!

Clint