Pinnacles (Clint discovers the new sport routes)   4/2/89

Had a good workout (mostly jug-hauling) at the Pinnacles this Sunday with
Greg Murphy.  A honed dude, Bob had mentioned he was looking for a partner
this weekend.  There are a lot of new routes down there with nice 3/8" bolts.
The weather had been worsening, but Greg called me back Sunday morning and
we took off (but not before setting the VCR to keep recording the Snowbird
competition show).  It was partly cloudy, perfect temperature and green.
Nancy arrived later with Renata.

First stop was the NW arete of the Monolith.
Greg had tried it twice before but had not been able to put the moves together;
not surprising since the crux bulge is 5.12a pumper sideclings and medium
sized slightly sloping knobs.  He got to the bulge but fell -- too pumped.
I tried and got the 5.11 start, but could not make the arete moves to his
last bolt (2-3 falls).  Then he fired it, including the top which was a bit
runout on the usual fragile knobs.  I got past my high point after one more
fall, but couldn't crank the bulge (just way too pumped), so I batmanned 3'
to the next bolt and finished from there.

Next we did a new 5.10d jug-haul just right of P.O.D.  It was fairly crowded
on this side of the Monolith, as usual.  (Greg led).  There were people yoyoing
on POD.  Somebody had led a new 5.11b left of POD, but the second couldn't
follow, so Greg tied in and fired it.

Finally we went over to Discovery Wall.  There's a new recommended route
there called Buffalo Soldier (I think) -- 5.10d.  Nancy found us, and Greg
led as usual.  It branches right off of Ordeal, and features a sustained
dihedral which disappears and a seam which opens and closes (once past the
loose rock down low).  You had to keep thinking to maintain upward
progress -- not much jug hauling on this one.

After this we did a 5.11c (The Verdict?) a few dihedrals to the right.
It started with a horizontal traverse featuring a long dyno right.  I made
the dyno the first try, but forgot to unclip, but I got it clean the second
time.  Greg took a fall up high where it overhangs and is quite pumper,
even though the holds are large.  Then he had to deal with 2 wasps (no stings).
I took a fall up high also when I missed an intermediate hold and didn't
want to make a long lunge.  Got it second try, and also pinched a pebble and
mantled higher, where Greg had made an incredibly long dyno.  This routed
ended at a nice rap chain so we didn't have to do the walkoff again.

Like I said, the new routes are nice and have good bolts.  They have been
established from the ground up, often drilled from hooks.  There are some
new topos available from Paul Gagner at Palo Alto North Face for 50 cents.
I'll make some copies for you Berkeley folks, in case you don't have them
already.

Clint