Pinnacles - Machete Ridge new route (3th day) - 2/27/2006  Bruce

Up the West Face approach pitch.  I aided up the bolt ladder and back cleaned
the first several bolts, then used full length runners on many of the bolts,
with the goal to reduce rope drag.  At Bruce's high point, I easily pulled
through the bulge on big solid holds to a rest point.  I considered placing
a bolt, but the moves were not too hard above, so I made it to a natural
belay spot (where the streak gets low angle and heads up left), where I
placed a belay bolt with lap links.

Bruce jumared while I placed the first bolt on p2.  He placed a second belay
bolt and chains.  Bruce led up p2 without needing any more bolts.  We made
it to the notch where it joins Old Original at the base of its rappel(s).
The upper streak was a gully and we noticed two old shield bolts near the
lip.  Bruce went back down to the lip and placed 2 3.5" belay bolts with
chains.  We rapped 80' back to the top of p1.  Here we decided to try
the direct finish streak, so I went up mostly easy rock and placed a bolt
about 50' up.  There were actually a few steep moves below where I placed
the bolt, but I wanted to get a bolt as high as possible in our limited
time.  We knew that later we could always add a bolt below to protect
the lower moves.

It was getting late, but we had time for Bruce to add a final bolt to
the top runout of p1 (at the rest above the headwall).  This will certainly
help anyone leading the pitch, especially if they have a lot of rope drag.

We rapped off our usual way.