SAC Anchors II class - Yosemite - 11/12-13/2005 Trip Leader: Clint Cummins Instructors: John Montgomery-Brown, Sam Chang, Darko Sarenac Students: Jesse Cunha, Lukasz Fidkowski, Patrick Girard, Karen Kapur, Sebastian Maerkl, Serban Nacu, Elaine Zelby We carpooled into Yosemite, with some people leaving Friday night at 6 or 7:30pm and others Saturday morning at 5am. We rendezvoused at Swan Slab, with some folks parking at Camp 4 and others at the Lodge Parking Lot across from Lower Yosemite Falls. The Saturday session was patterned after the 10/2004 Anchors II class. Clint began the anchor setting instruction at 2 cracks on the far left end of the slab, roughly under the Penthouse Cracks. The left hand crack is a nice deep 1.5" crack with good spots for cams and a big stopper. The right crack is thin and intermittent, more of a challenge, but still a few good places for small wired nuts and small cams. We split up into 4 groups with one instructor and 1-2 students each, so that students could practice placing gear anchors at different spots under close instruction. We used several other cracks nearby - the 5.7, 5.9/5.7 and 5.8 left of Oak Tree Flake. Besides slings and cordelettes for creating anchor systems, we also had a few short sections of lead rope so that the clove hitch system could be used. We teamed up initially as: Clint, Jesse, Lukasz John, Patrick, Elaine Sam, Karen, Sebastian Darko, Serban Most of us practiced placing and evaluating gear anchors, although Sam's group started initially with a mock-multipitch on the 5.1 below the Penthouse Cracks. After several sessions of anchor building, we moved on to multipitch following and regrouped slightly. Clint, Karen, Sebastian: Climbed the strenuous 5.9 layback start to 5.7 short crack. Practiced cleaning the short pitch, clipping into the anchor, and rappelling off with a belay, including stopping on the rappel by wrapping the rope around a leg. Oak Tree Flake 5.6 and Bay Tree Crack 5.6 as a 2-pitch climb. Then walked off to the left and made a short rappel at the end. John, Elaine, Lukasz: Oak Tree Flake 5.6 and the corner above as a 2-pitch climb. Grant's Crack 5.9. Sam, Jesse: The 5.7 crack next to Clint, then a second pitch to a tree belay. Oak Tree Flake 5.6 and Bay Tree Crack 5.6. Darko, Serban, Patrick: The left side of Oak Tree Flake and Bay Tree Crack 5.6. Swan Slab Gully as a 2-pitch 5.6, and rappelled the route. On Saturday night, Clint had been unable to make campground reservations (most campgrounds close by the end of October), but Serban noticed that there was a list of available spots at Camp 4, so after a brief discussion we went there to cook and sleep. Darko and Elaine spent a few hours at the inside of the Curry Village Pizza Deck having some pizza and reading. Some firewood was located and most of us hung around the campfire at one of the Camp 4 sites, where Sebastian amazed us with his talents on the guitar. On Sunday morning, we moved over to the Church Bowl to have breakfast in the sun. There were a few light clouds, so it was not as warm as expected, but it was not too bad. We regrouped for more multipitch climbing, with plans to meet back at Church Bowl before dark. Clint, Karen, Sebastian: Harry Daley Route 5.8/5.7 - we were hoping for morning sun on the Apron, but this route was too far to the north and fully in the shade. Fortunately we brought a belay parka. 2 rappels back to the ground. Bishop's Terrace 5.8/5.6 - it was nice to be back in the sun for this classic crack climb. Sam, Serban: Grack Center 5.0/5.6/5.6 - they got stuck behind some slow climbers, but fortunately it's still a very nice crack climb. Uncle Fanny 5.7 - Sam's second time on this route; it went much smoother due to better technique this time! John, Elaine, Lukasz: After Six 5.6, 5-6 pitches. Darko, Jesse, Patrick: Nutcracker 5.8, 5 pitches. They took the 5.9 variation start but still got stuck behind some very slow parties. Still, it's not too bad to be on one of the best routes in Yosemite. We met up at Church Bowl as planned, regrouped for carpooling and headed home.