Pinnacles Rebolting
This is an attempt to list a few of the Pinnacles routes where
the original bolts have been replaced with new ones, and
where chains have been added to avoid unsightly and dangerously
rotted slings.
The Friends of Pinnacles ("FOP") have
been involved in much of this work. They are careful to ask
permission of the first ascent party, and have developed some
good methods for bolt removal and replacement.
Of course, even though the new bolts are better than the old,
Pinnacles rock is imperfect, so always use them at your own risk!
Detailed list of all replaced bolts, added chains,
removed extraneous bolts, and replaced hangers performed by
Friends of Pinnacles
(last updated 11/17/06).
Bad bolt list - nominate a bad bolt for
replacement
Route restoration guidelines by Larry Arthur
Brief list of recent rebolting efforts
- This list of recent rebolting has not been updated for awhile, sorry.
Rebolting is still ongoing, and the "Detailed list" above is sorted
by date, so it's not too hard to find out what has been done recently.
- 11/04 - Balconies - Lava Falls - Erik Bratton,
Dennis Erik Strom
- placed chains at anchor at end of pitch one of Lava Falls
(replacing multiple slings)
Note: there are still some old lead bolts on this route
- 11/04 - Balconies - Hook and Drill - Erik Bratton,
Dennis Erik Strom
- placed chains at top of route
- replaced bolts 2 and 4
- 3/04 - Monolith - Terranean Tango - Chris Kurrle, Chris Ackerman,
Mike McCabe
- replaced 2 bolts (the second bolt, and the Indirect Traverse bolt)
- replaced 3 hangers on existing bolts
- 3/04 - Monolith - Lower North Face - Chris Kurrle, Chris Ackerman,
Mike McCabe
- replaced 4 bolts (former bolts #1, 3, 5, and a directional on the slab)
- removed 1 bolt (former bolt #2)
- 2003 - work by FOP which I have not updated to this page yet (sorry,
I'm laggin'!).
- 3/03? - East Side - The Hatchet - Tom Rohrer
- added a stainless bolt on the summit
- to go with the Star Dryvin bolt he placed there in 1967!
- 3/03 - High Peaks - FOP
- 3/03 - West Side - Hummingbird Spire - Clint Cummins
- replaced protection bolt on chimney route
- replaced 3 protection bolts on arete route
- 3/03 - Bear Gulch - Relayer - Clint Cummins
- replaced the 4th bolt, which had been missing for some time
- 2/03 - Bear Gulch - Wet Kiss, Tarantula - Dennis Erik Strom, Clint Cummins
- Wet Kiss - replaced lowest lock links on chains (old ones
were visibly worn down)
- Tarantula - anchor chains added. New anchor bolts added closer
to edge; painted brown. Removed rappel slings from top of
No Holds Barred.
- 2/03 - High Peaks - FOP
Detailed FOP list (same as above)
- Dwarf Pinnacle - 2 anchor bolts + chains
- The Cone - 1 prot. bolt, 2 anchor bolts + chains
- The Rook - 1 prot. bolt, 1 anchor bolt + chains
- 2/03 - Bear Gulch - The Gag - James McConachie, Clint Cummins
- replaced both (1/4") protection bolts with 3/8" bolts
- 1/27/03 - The Shaft - FOP (Friends of Pinnacles)
- 9 of 10 bolts replaced. The 6th bolt on the 7-bolt ladder
(with drilled piton for
hanger) was left in place, to preserve the historical feel!
- Chains added on top for the rappel.
- 1/03 - High Peaks - FOP
- Pot Pinnacle - 2 anchor bolts + chains
- Peyote Pillar (both summits) - 3 anchor bolts + chains
- Proclamation Pinnacle - 1 prot. bolt + 1 anchor bolt + chains
- Arch Pinnacle - 2 anchor bolts + chains
- Teapot Dome - 2 anchor bolts + chains
- 1/03 - Frog - Tuff - Brad Young, Dennis Erik Strom
- 4 of 6 bolts replaced
- It still may be scary leading past that old fixed pin --
good luck you guys!
- 12/02 - High Peaks - FOP
- Pipsqueak Pinnacle
- Snout
- Monument
- Tombstone
- Egg - 4 prot. bolts + 3 anchor bolts + chains
- 11/02 - High Peaks - FOP
- Salathe's Sliver
- Nelson's Needle
- 3/09/02 - Machete Ridge - Son of Dawn Wall - Clint Cummins
- The bolts on all pitches of this route are now in good condition.
There are still some old bolts and hangers which require
narrow carabiners, but not in crux areas.
- 3rd pitch: 7 bolts replaced, 1 additional bolt pulled
-
details
- 2/10/02 - Machete Ridge - Desperado Chute-Out - Clint Cummins,
Chris Sheldon
- 7 bolts replaced, 2 additional bolts pulled
-
details
- 11/30/01 - The Thumb - 50 Meter Must - "The Merry Cranksters"
- all bolts replaced. The original bolts, placed in cobbles,
were left intact. New bolts were placed next to them.
- 11/10/01 - High Peaks - Squareblock Rock - Mark Fletcher
Squareblock Rock Crack
- 3 bolts replaced
- details
- 11/3/01 - High Peaks - Flatiron - Mark Fletcher, Sid Hill, Florence Scholl
Northeast Face, Regular Route, variations 1 and 2
- 8 bolts replaced, 1 hanger replaced
- details
- 7/29/01 - West Side - Tilting Terrace - Mark Fletcher
- 2 bolts replaced (4th bolt on first pitch, bolt on 2nd pitch)
- details
- 4/01 - Monolith - Bridwell Bolts - Brad Young
- 3 of the first 4 bolts replaced, with 3/8" x 3.5" Rawlbolts,
with threads glued by red Locktite.
- 6 bolts replaced, starting at top
"With about 3-4 more replacements in the middle areas of
the pitch, this route should be A1."
See original rebolting report, 11/00
- 4/01 - Pipsqueak Pinnacle - Rightfoot - Brad Young
- first bolt replaced
- third bolt needs to be replaced
- 3/01 - The Monolith - Greg Barnes, Dave Buchanan, John Steinmetz
(using glue-in bolts, an
ASCA project)
- Cantaloupe Death - all 5 bolts
- Feed the Beast - all 4 bolts
- Monolith Regular Route - 3 bolts
- details
- 3/01 - Discovery Wall - The Verdict - Greg Barnes
(using glue-in bolts, an ASCA project)
- The Verdict - 3rd, 4th, 5th bolts
- details
- 3/01 - Machete Ridge - Son of Dawn Wall - Clint Cummins
- 1 bolt replaced on 3rd pitch (upper crux), plus 1 bolt
at belay
- 2 bolts replaced on 4th pitch, plus 1 bolt at belay
- 1 (second) bolt added at 5th pitch block belay
- details
- 1/01 - Machete Ridge - Son of Dawn Wall - Dennis Erik Strom
- crux bolt replaced on 4th pitch
- belay bolt added at block on top of 5th pitch
- 12/00 - Resurrection Wall - Dennis Erik Strom, Matt Eastman
- last bolt on 1st pitch replaced (in a new hole)
- crux bolt (approx. 4th) replaced on 2nd pitch
- 12/00 - Balconies - Dennis Erik Strom, Brad Young
- Lava Falls - chains added to 2nd belay only
- No Sense of Measure - chains added to both 1st and 2nd belays
- 12/00 - Yaks Wall - Venus Fly Trap - Brad Young
- 2 bolts replaced - 3rd and 4th bolts upgraded to 3/8"
- 11/26/00 - West Side - Mark Fletcher
- The Shepherd
- 4 bolts replaced
- 1 extra bolt removed
- Rumbling Rampart
- 1 bolt replaced
- 1 hanger replaced, after improving rock surface to
engage all threads
- Elephant Rock, Regular Route
- 1 belay bolt placed at bottom
- 3 hangers replaced
- details
- 11/26/00 - Monolith - Bridwell Bolts - Brad Young
- 4 bolts replaced, starting at top
Some older bolts which looked OK were left in, as was the
hook move. "With about 6-8 more replacements it will be
a hard route to die on." See update, 4/01
- 11/26/00 - Deserted Valley - Little Mustaugh - Brad Young
- 3 bolts replaced - "now a survivable lead". The route
starts by throwing a rope over the right end of the ledge
and jumaring up 10'.
- 10/22,11/5/00 - Machete Ridge - Son of Dawn Wall - Clint Cummins
- 9 bolts replaced on first pitch
- 5 bolts replaced on second pitch
- details
- 10/8/00 - Monolith - Ranger Bolts (aid version) - Mark Fletcher
- 4 bolts replaced (3 on initial traverse, 1 higher)
- details
- 9/23-24,30/00 - Citadel - Costanoan - Mark Fletcher
- 19 bolts replaced, plus 7 additional hangers
- details
- 9/15/00 - Monolith - Ranger Bolts - Mark Fletcher, Gina Tan
- belay placed at start of aid version
- details
- 8/26/00 - The Hatchet - Mark Fletcher
- All bolts replaced
- 17 bolts pulled or broken, 14 bolts placed
- details
- 4/22/00 - Machete Ridge - Son of Dawn Wall - Clint Cummins
- Replaced the broken 1/4" bolt near the end of the first pitch,
at the final free crux where you climb semi-loose flakes out left.
A 3/8" x 3.5" Rawlbolt was used. The rock was atypically very hard;
the hole took one hour to drill.
- How I'm spending a $100 donation.
- 2/10-11/00 - The Upper Crust - Mark Fletcher
- When in Doubt Run it Out
- top anchor bolts replaced with rap ring hangers
- Japanese Water Torture
- one anchor hanger replaced
- two protection bolts replaced/moved. The first one had been
missing for many years. Both old bolts broke off inside the
holes.
- Nodal Line
- one protection hanger replaced
- one protection bolt moved (rock broke around the old
bolt when it was removed)
- one protection bolt replaced
- Me and My Monkey / Baboon Crack
- top anchor bolts replaced with rap ring hangers
- two loose protection bolts moved
- one protection bolt replaced
- one protection hanger replaced
- 1/15/00 - The Frog, Lonesome Dove - Mark Fletcher, Stephen Riddle
- Replaced the 6 protection bolts, including 2 shared with the
second pitch of Ski Jump. Replaced the top anchor, using
rap ring hangers.
- 1/8/00 - The Thumb, Regular Route - Mark Fletcher
- Replaced the 2 lead bolts, and the 2 anchor bolts (with
rap ring hangers).
- 1/7/00 - The Frog, Ski Jump - Brandon Lampley, Robert Zambetti
- Replaced the 3 bolts on p1, replaced the 2 anchor bolts
(100' off ground; was 2 bad 1/4" bolts), added chains to anchor.
- 1/5/00 - new report on rebolting in March 1999 -- see
below.
- 12/99 - Portent - Brandon Lampley
- Replaced one of the midway anchor bolts, added short rap chains.
(Slings have appeared often at this anchor).
- 12/99 - Yankee Pinnacle - Brad Young, Dennis Erik Strom
- 11/28/99 - North Yak - Mark Fletcher, David Schneider
- Replaced anchor bolts with 3 good bolts and rap ring hangers.
- The bolt ladder itself was not replaced yet, although it
probably should be.
- 10/28/99 - The Torso - Mark Fletcher
- Replaced anchor bolts and all but the last 2 aid bolts
(which were in better shape than the others).
- 10/16/99 - Machete Ridge (Old Original and East rappel route
finished!) - Mark Fletcher
- Replaced bolts and belay anchor on Middle Tower Continuation
- Added final rappel station on East rappel route, so that
it can be done with a single 50m rope.
- 10/3/99 - Machete Ridge (East rappel route) - Mark Fletcher +
David Schneider
- Added rappel station (to handle single 50m ropes)
- Replaced final rappel station
- One more rappel station needed to fully handle 50m ropes
- 8/16/99 - new report on rebolting in December 1995 -- see
below.
- 8/7/99 - Machete Ridge - Mark Fletcher
- Old Original - pitch 6 and rappels -- 8 anchor/rappel bolts replaced.
Work still in progress on Old Original.
details
- 7/30/99 - Machete Ridge - Mark Fletcher
- Old Original - pitches 3 and 4 -- 3-6 anchor/rappel bolts replaced,
1 hanger replaced
Work still in progress on Old Original.
details
- 7/99 - Machete Ridge - Mark Fletcher
- Old Original -- 1 belay/rappel moved, 4 bolts replaced,
1 hanger replaced
Work still in progress on Old Original.
details
- 6/99 - Machete Ridge - Mark Fletcher
- Derringer -- all but 1 bolt replaced
- Derringer -- bolt added to intermediate belay (otherwise
a 60m rope is required). This belay is shared with
Desperado Chute-Out
- Denny-Colliver -- its single bolt replaced
- Old Original -- one bolt replaced, 2 hangers replaced
Work still in progress on Old Original.
details
- 4/99 - Bear Gulch - Greg Barnes
- Jorgie's On Crack - replaced three 1/4" bolts
with 1/2" x 3.75" Rawl 6-piece (non-stainless) and Metolius hangers
- 3?/99 - Thrill Hammer - Brandon Lampley
- At first anchor, removed 4 old bolts, and added one good one.
- At top anchor, replaced hangers and added rappel chains.
- 2/99 - Bear Gulch - Greg Barnes, et al
- Mammary Pump - replaced first and last bolts, removed hanger
from project above first bolt, removed old anchor bolts at
belay ledge
- Rat Race - installed new rap station with chains
- all 4 bolts are 3/8" x 3.5" Rawl 6-piece stainless
- 1/99 - Citadel - Mark Fletcher
- Costanoan p1 - 2nd 3/8" anchor bolt installed (old belay
bush is now dead)
- Costanoan p3 - old 1/4" anchor bolt replaced with 3/8"
Mark notes that the 4th pitch now has a belay/rappel
anchor, and that all anchors have at least one 3/8" bolt.
- 12/98 - Condor Gulch - Brad Young, Dennis Erik Strom
- Hip Hip Hooray - 2nd anchor bolt installed
- Casino Rock - anchor bolt installed
- 12/97 - Moses Spring Wall - James McConachie
- Buzzard Bait - first bolt replaced, 1 anchor bolt installed
- Heat Seeking Moisture Missile - last 2 bolts replaced (crux
and top bolt), redundant bolts removed at crux,
2 anchor bolts installed
- 11/97 - West Side - FOP
- Elephant Rock - anchor bolts replaced, chains added
- Once Around the Backside - bolts replaced, chains added
- 11/97 - High Peaks - FOP
- Long's Folly - 4 lead bolts replaced
- Condor Crags, South Summit Traverse - 3 bolts replaced
- Condor Crags - rappel anchor installed to replace dead tree
- 10/97 - High Peaks - FOP
- Unmentionable - rappel chains added
- Flatiron - 2 bolts replaced, rappel chains lengthened
- Photographer's Delight - rappel chains added
- Mechanic's Delight - 3 bolts replaced, rappel chains added
- South Finger - rappel chains lengthened
- H & L Dome - 3 bolts replaced, rappel chains added
- Piglet - 2 anchor bolts replaced, rappel chains added
- 10/97 - High Peaks - FOP
- The Sponge - rappel chains added
- North Finger - rappel chains added
- South Finger - rappel chains added
- Long's Folly - anchor bolts replaced, 2 rappel chains added
- 10/97 - The Hand - FOP
- Salathe Route - bolts replaced, redundant anchor bolts and pitons
removed
- Burnette Bolt Variation - bolt replaced
- Wilts Variation - bolt replaced
- 1997 - High Peaks - FOP
- The Sponge - rappel chains added
- Burgundy Dome, Rappel Route - bolts replaced, rappel chains added
- 12/1995 - Lava Falls - Jeff Ernstein
I replaced the first 2 1/4" bolts, the 3rd and 4th Star Dryvin,
and the 8th? bolt Dryvin on the overhang after a friend took a
whipper when a rock broke loose. It held, but it was quite loose!
- 12/1995 - Tilting Terrace - Jeff Ernstein
I replaced the first 3 1/4 " bolts (I pulled them with my
fingers!). I used 3/8x 3 3/4" wedge anchors.
- 1995? - Back of Hand - Dennis Erik Strom
- 1994? - Monolith (many routes) - FOP
Some of the most active FOP members in these rebolting projects
have been Bruce Hildenbrand, Brooks White, Seizo Sakurai, Kelly Rich,
and David Rubine.
What can go wrong when a bolt (or the rock!) fails
Here's an interesting story of a
wild fall and bolt/rock failure
on the Monolith Regular Route, from back in 1972.
It was posted on the rec.climbing newsgroup in July 2000.
Rebolting Links
Please send any additions/corrections to
Clint Cummins.