From: Mark_Fletcher%TURNERDESIGNS@turnerdesigns.com
Subject: "The Hatchet" At The Pinnacles Rebolted
To: clint@Stanford.EDU, runitout@hotmail.com
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 08:58:54 -0700

"The Hatchet" (5.10a or 5.3, A1+), Pinnacles National Monument, East Side

This climb has been entirely rebolted now with 3/8" bolts and modern
stainless steel climbing hangers and is now safe for falling on bolts while
free climbing.  Numerous extra bad bolts were removed.

I added two belay bolts at the bottom of the climb since I was climbing
solo and the only protection available was a 2" diameter tree that looked
like it could easily pull out.  These belay bolts are Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x
3-1/2" bolts and Kong S.S. hangers.  The first bolt directly above the
belay, a Leeper hanger and a Rawl 1/4" x 2" split shaft buttonhead bolt was
easily pulled.  This bolts was replaced with a Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2"
bolt and Fixe S.S. "ASCA" hanger.  On the first ledge were two bolts.  The
first bolt, a threaded 1/4" split shaft stud without a hanger was broken
during the extraction, so I replaced this bolt in a new hole close by with
a Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and Fixe S.S. "ASCA" hanger.  The second
bolt on the ledge was a Leeper hanger and 1/2" x 1-1/2" self-drill torque
bolt.  The rock around this bolt easily exploded during pulling this bolt.
This second bolt was not replaced.

The first bolt above the first ledge had been previously replaced with a
Rawl 6-piece 3/8" bolt (depth unknown) and a camo Metolius hanger.  The
Rawl bolt wobbled slightly, so I tightened it slightly.  I pulled a Star
Dryvin bolt and broken homemade hanger from this same location, which were
not removed by whoever placed the new Rawl bolt and Metolius hanger.

The next bolt and galvanized Leeper hanger had a stamped plate behind it
which read "3 IN. DEEP SET 12-25-1967."  I tried to pull this bolt, which
was similar to a Star Dryvin, but had an aluminum sheath, but I was not
able to pull it without breaking the head off.  I replaced this bolt with a
Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and Fixe S.S. "ASCA" hanger is a new hole.
The next bolt above this one, a Star Dryvin-like bolt and homemade strap
aluminum hanger (death hanger!), was pulled and replaced with a Rawl
6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and Fixe S.S. "ASCA" hanger.

The Star Dryvin bolt and homemade strap aluminum hanger in the
"nail-puller" slot or cave was easily pulled and replaced with a Rawl
6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and Fixe S.S. "ASCA" hanger.  The first
protection bolt above the "nail-puller" slot, a Star Dryvin bolt and
homemade strap aluminum hanger, was easily pulled and replaced with a Rawl
6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and Fixe S.S. "ASCA" hanger.

The next protection bolts consisted of two side-by-side bolts, one a Star
Dryvin bolt with a homemade strap aluminum hanger and the other a Star
Dryvin bolt and a Leeper hanger.  Both bolts were pulled and were replaced
with a single Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and Fixe S.S. "ASCA" hanger
in one of the holes.  The next protection bolt before the ridge was a 3/8"
x 2" Star Dryvin bolt and Leeper hanger.  This bolt was easily pulled and
replaced with a Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and a Fixe S.S. camo hanger
(I ran out of "ASCA" hangers).

Two side-by-side bolts on the ridge just before the belay were easily
pulled.  These bolts consisted of a Star Dryvin bolt with a homemade strap
aluminum hanger and a Star Dryvin bolt with a Leeper hanger.  These bolts
were replaced with a single Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and a Fixe S.S.
camo hanger in one of the holes.

The three belay bolts consisted of two 3/8" x 1-1/2" Star Dryvin bolts
combined with Leeper hangers and one 3/8" x 1-1/2" Star Dryvin bolt with a
old SMC hanger.  These bolts were all easily removed and the mass of rappel
webbing also removed.  In one case the rock around the bolt easily broke
during the pulling.  The belay was replaced with one Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x
3-1/2" bolt and a Fixe S.S. camo hanger in one of the previous holes.
Also, two Fixe S.S. double ring rappel ring hangers were installed in new
holes in sound rock with two Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolts as part of
the belay.

Mark Fletcher, August 28, 2000

Bolts Pulled or Broken:  17,  Bolts Replaced or Placed:  14,  Hangers
Replaced:  0

Note for Clint:  The 1995 guidebook lists this as being entirely A2 if done
on aid, but the climbing up to the first ledge is free climbing at the 5.3
level.  Also, a 5.3 move is required to move from the last protection bolt
onto the ridge.  I would now give the aid climbing a rating of A1+ because
of the long reaches between bolts and the tension move to make the long
reach to the bolt above the "nail-puller" slot.