Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 (for 30 Sep 2000, see below) Last weekend I did some rebolting work on "Costanoan" (5.4), a four pitch climb on the Citadel at the Pinnacles N.M. Despite the hard uphill approach to this climb, it is fairly popular due to the multiple pitches and easy rating. Pitch 1 All lead bolts except for the second bolt were either pulled or were broken during the pulling process. The existing hangers on this climb were homemade angle iron hangers which would transmit a downward force into a outward-levering force. The lead bolts and hangers which had already existing Rawl bolts were replaced with the existing Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3" bolts and Fixe S.S. "ASCA" hangers. Despite trying to carefully pull out the existing 1/4" threaded stud bolts, these bolts easily broke during the pulling process. Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolts and Fixe S.S. "ASCA" hangers were placed in new holes close to the previous locations. I missed replacing the hanger on the second lead bolt because I bypassed it twice while climbing. At a later date I will replace this second bolt hanger. I placed two Fixe S.S. double ring rappel ring hangers with Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolts at the edge of the ledge at the top of this pitch. These rappel rings allow easy rope pulling compared to the horrible rope drag that resulting when pulling the rope through the rappel rings and slings attached to two bolts 30 feet from the lip of the edge. The existing slings and rappel rings were removed. Bolts Pulled or Broken: 6, Bolts Replaced or Placed: 6, Hangers Replaced Using Existing Bolts: 2 Pitch 2 All existing lead bolts were 1/4" threaded shaft bolts which broke during the pulling process. These bolts had homemade angle iron hangers. All lead bolts were replaced with Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolts in new holes located near the previous bolt location. The homemade angle iron hangers were replaced with Fixe S.S. "ASCA" or regular Fixe S.S. hangers. One aluminum Kong hanger at the belay/rappel station was replaced with a Fixe S.S. double ring rappel ring hanger using the existing Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3" bolt. A 1/4" threaded bolt and new-style SMC hanger was replaced with a Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt in a new hole (bolt broke during pulling) and a Fixe S.S. double ring rappel ring hanger. The third bolt at the belay/rappel station, a 1/4" threaded shaft bolt and a homemade angle iron hanger, was replaced with a Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and a Kong S.S. hanger. The existing webbing and rappel ring were removed. Bolts Pulled or Broken: 8, Bolts Replaced or Placed: 8, Hangers Replaced Using Existing Bolts: 1 Pitch 3 I did not replace any of the lead bolts, although one bolt had been replaced with a Rawl 6-piece bolt and a Petzl S.S. hanger by someone previously. I will replace two 1/4" lead bolts with angle iron hangers at a future date. The guidebook shows four protection bolts on this pitch, but I only counted three. If I find the location of the broken fourth bolt, I will replace that bolt also. I replaced the existing Fixe S.S. hanger at the belay/rappel station with a Fixe S.S. double ring rappel ring hanger using the existing Fixe S.S. double wedge 3/8" x 3-3/4" bolt, which I installed previously on 1/9/1999. I replaced an existing 1/4" threaded shaft bolt and a homemade angle iron hanger at the belay with a Fixe S.S. double ring rappel ring hanger and a Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt in a new hole (bolt broke during pulling). The third bolt at the belay, a Rawl 6-piece 3/8" bolt and a Metolius camouflage hanger was left intact. The existing webbing and rappel rings were removed. Bolts Pulled or Broken: 1, Bolts Replaced or Placed: 1, Hangers Replaced Using Existing Bolts: 1 Pitch 4 At a later date I will replace the 1/4" threaded shaft bolts and angle iron hangers on this last pitch at well as those bolts which have already broken off. I will also replace the rappel webbing and slings at the top with rappel ring hangers using the existing bolts. [Mark Fletcher] --------------------------------------- On Saturday, September 30 I completed rebolting "Costanoan" (5.4) on the Citadel at the west side of Pinnacles N.M. This four pitch climb now has all 3/8" bolts, modern climbing hangers, and rappel ring hangers at all belays. The work described is in addition to the work I did the previous weekend. Pitch 1 I replaced the homemade angle iron hanger at the second protection bolt with a Fixe S.S. "ASCA" hanger. The existing Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3" bolt was used when replacing the hanger. Hangers Replaced: 1 Pitch 2 No additional changes since the work done the previous weekend. Pitch 3 I tried to pull the first 1/4" protection bolt, but as with all of these bolts, the bolt broke. I replaced this homemade angle iron hanger and 1/4" bolt with a Kong aluminum hanger and a Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt in a new hole. The second protection bolt may have already been replaced by someone earlier because this protection consisted of a Petzl S.S. hanger and a Rawl 6-piece 3/8" bolt. I tried to pull the third 1/4" protection bolt and homemade angle iron hanger, but the bolt broke. This bolt was was replaced with a Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and a Fixe S.S. hanger in a new hole. The guidebook shows four protection bolts on this pitch, yet I only found three bolts and did not find a broken stud. I do not see where you would want a fourth protection bolt on this short, easy (5.3) pitch. Bolts Pulled or Broken: 2, Bolts Replaced or Placed: 2, Hangers Replaced: 0 Pitch 4 I tried to pull all four homemade angle iron hangers and 1/4" threaded shaft protection bolts, but all bolts broke during the pulling process. The four lead protection bolts were replaced with Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolts and Fixe S.S. hangers in new holes. I also broke off a 1/4" threaded shaft stud located near the third protection bolt. The bolt placement appeared to be botched during the placement by the original ascensionist, hence the second bolt nearby. The rappel webbing and rings tied through the two bolts at the top of the climb were removed. The two belay/rappel hangers were replaced with two Fixe S.S. double ring rappel ring hangers using the existing bolts. The existing bolts were a Rawl 6-piece 1/2" x 3-3/4" bolt and a 3/8" threaded shaft stud bolt. Bolts Pulled or Broken: 4, Bolts Replaced or Placed: 4, Hangers Replaced: 2 Mark Fletcher