Mark Fletcher
06/07/99 01:20 PM

I replaced all except for one bolt on Derringer (5.5-5.7 R) in the Machete
Ridge area with either Fixe S.S. 3/8" x 3-3/4" double wedge bolts (in
harder knobs) or Rawl 6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolts (in softer rock).  The
hangers were replaced with Fixe S.S. or Metolius S.S. hangers.  A second
bolt was added at the intermediate belay on the first pitch of Derringer
(doing this pitch without this intermediate belay required a 60 m rope and
resulting in considerable rope drag even with long slings).  This
intermediate belay also serves as the belay point for Desperado Chuteout
(5.10 or 5.6 A1 R). Derringer - Direct Start has good bolts, so no
replacement was necessary.

The single bolt on the Denny-Colliver Finish (5.7) was replaced with a Rawl
6-piece 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt.  I replaced a Leeper hanger on the second pitch
of Old Original (5.3) but kept the good bolt intact.  One bolt of the
second/third pitch belay of Old Original was replaced with a Rawl 6-piece
3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and a Fixe rappel ring hanger.  A Leeper hanger on a
good Rawl bolt at this same belay was replaced with a Fixe rappel ring
hanger, thus allowing one to rappel down the Hideout variation.

I plan to continue replacing bolts on the Old Original, and other climbs on
the west side of Machete Ridge since I love this area, but there are many
bad bolts.