Needles Rock Climbing
(California, Sequoia National Forest)
Before trying to wade through the information on this page,
I recommend
Alexander Cooper's Needles Mini Guide
for its beautiful set of topos and route descriptions for
most Needles routes.
I have linked a few of these topos below, but he has many more.
We hope to do more "research" and add further topos
and updates to our pages!
Sources:
- JL -
Stonemasher Rockclimbing Guide to the Kern River Canyon and Environs
E.C. Joe, Dick Leversee, 1983
- JH -
The Climber's Guide to North America - West Coast Rock Climbs
John Harlin III, Chockstone Press, 1984
- VM - The Rock & Ice Guide to the Needles of California,
Gregory Vernon and Sally Moser, Rock & Ice Magazine 11/87
- MVP - Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: The Needles Area
Sally Moser, Gregory Vernon and Patrick Paul, Chockstone Press, 1992
- E.C. Joe's website, rockclimbing.com, summitpost.org - see links below
Route lists
updated 1/25/08: corrected The Seven Year Itch - route name on
Sorcerer's Apprentice, FA info, topo
updated 11/9/06: added Shikata Ga Nai, Road to Perdition
updated 6/23/06: added routes from E.C. Joe and Dick Leversee guide,
added first ascent info
updated 9/3/05: added some new routes
updated 7/26: adding all routes from MVP guide, plus newer routes
Maps
added 7/21/05: new area map (properly scaled, based on aerial photo)
updated 6/17: JH maps split into 2 pages
added 6/16: USGS topo maps, USFS road map, aerial photo
Topos
Many of these topos are adapted from the Rock&Ice guide of 11/87 (VM), using
the Lechlinski/Vernon corrections of 1/88. Many others were drawn
by E.C. Joe.
updated 8/30/08: corrected links to Alexander Cooper's topos
updated 8/30/07: Warlock NE Face topo - rappel from top to Howling
chains is more than 100'
updated 4/9/07: added links to several of Alexander Cooper's topos,
corrected links to E.C. Joe's new vertical20.com site
added 9/2/06: Warlock E Face Right topo, Warlock NE Face topo,
Witch E Face topo
added 9/2/05: Sorcerer's Apprentice
updated 7/26: rotated Magician, Demon photos to landscape mode
added 7/21: enlarged Liquid Sky/Harlem Shuffle topos
added 7/21: enlarged West Side Story/Double Trouble topos
updated 7/21: corrected Wailing Banshees rating
updated 7/21: corrected White Punks on Dope rappel route
updated 6/17: enlarged Necromancer
added 6/15: Strange Brew, Voodoo Chile, Crossbones
- Magician - West Face scaled topo of all routes -
Alexander Cooper
- Magician - Lower West Face detail starts for Black Magic, Strange Brew, etc. -
Alexander Cooper
- Magician - Upper West Face detail rappel options from top -
Alexander Cooper
- Magician Black Magic (overlay photo)
- Magician, Djin Black Magic (topos) [topo now legible!]
- Magician Liquid Sky, Harlem Shuffle - MVP
- Magician West Side Story, Double Trouble - MVP
- Magician - Strange Brew version of Black Magic,
E.C. Joe
- Charlatan - West Face Spooky
- Sorcerer - West Face The Predator, Stars + Stripes
- Wizard - West Face Alexander Cooper
- Wizard - West Face Lethargy, Yellow Brick Road
- Wizard - SE Face, Sorcerer's Apprentice
Danse Macabre / Broomsticks (mostly unreadable)
- Sorcerer's Apprentice - South Face
Broomsticks, Love Potion #9 - Clint
- Wizard - SE Face Golden Needles
- Charlatan - East Face, Blockhead
- Fire Wall Pyromania
- Sorcerer - East Face Left Davy Jones' Locker
- Sorcerer - East Face Thin Ice, Atlantis - Clint
- Witch - West Face Left Airy Interlude, Igor Unchained
- Clint
- Witch - West Face Left/Center overlay photo
(mostly unreadable)
- Witch - West Face Right
- Necromancer below Witch
- Witch - E Face The Iceberg, Lifeboat - Clint
- Warlock - NE Face The Howling, Ghostbumps - Clint
- Warlock - E Face - Right side
Planet Waves, Imaginary Voyage, Shadows in the Rain, Dragon's Back - Clint
- Warlock - SW Face Romantic Warrior (best topo), Sea of
Tranquility, etc. - Alexander Cooper
- Necromancer, Warlock - West Face, Witch - East Face
Romantic Warrior
-
Warlock - Romantic Warrior E.C. Joe
- Warlock - South Face
-
Warlock - Bird of Prey Rob Brown
route info
- Voodoo Dome - South Face Left White Punks on Dope
(mostly unreadable)
-
White Punks on Dope E.C. Joe
- Voodoo Dome - South Face Middle (CCN version)
WPOD rappel route, Random Neural Firing, Voodoo Chile, Crossbones
E.C. Joe version
-
Voodoo Dome - Voodoo Chil E.C. Joe
- Voodoo Dome - Crossbones E.C. Joe
- Voodoo Dome - South Face Right
- Demon Dome
The Hermit Mark & Susan Robinson's 1992 routes
Links
For several years, David Hickey and Patrick Paul were working on an updated
Needles guidebook.
Progress was slow, and recently they lost much of their
work in a computer crash or theft, and gave up on the project as a result.
The material they had accumulated was given to Kevin Daniels, who is in
the early stages of planning to make a Needles guidebook.
We wish him success in his work on this.