Index Town Wall Rock Climbs
Back in 1993/94, I compiled a guidebook to this climbing area
in Index, Washington (1 hour NE of Seattle on highway 2).
It is still available at the Index General Store, for about $10.
There is no copyright on this climbing guide, and it is in 8.5" x 11"
format, so you can also make your own copies if you can find someone
with a decent original.
I let the guide go generally out of print, because Darryl Cramer was
working on an updated guide which I thought might be available soon
(although he advised me otherwise!). Like most guides, it took awhile
for it to be finished, and I found out in June 2000 that it has been
Darryl Cramer's new guide, Sky Valley Rock,
ISBN 0-9678531-0-9, is an excellent guidebook, with over 500 routes
and variations covered in 302 pages (5.25" x 8.25" x .7").
It includes beautiful topos, photos, maps, written route descriptions
and action photos.
Besides Index, it also covers Static Point, Zeke's Wall, Snoqualmie
Pass, Steven's Pass, Holoman Ridge, and alpine rock climbs on
Mt. Index, Mt. Persis, Gunn Peak and Mt. Baring (Dolomite Tower).
It sells for $18 retail, and can currently be found at:
If you're a dealer, and you want to sell the book, you can
contact him at:
- Pro Mountain Sports (Seattle)
- Cascade Crags Rock Gym (Everett)
- Feathered Friends (Seattle)
- Asplunds (Wenatchee)
- Marmot Mountain Works (including Vertical World gyms) - stocking in progress
- REI (Puget Sound area stores) - order in progress
- More places will follow shortly.
Sky Valley Press
11540 Palatine Ave North
Seattle, WA 98133
2008 update: Sky Valley Rock observed available on the shelf
for sale at REI in Seattle.
Scans from the 1993+ guidebook
Here is a wide selection of scanned pages from the "1993+" guidebook.
All are scanned at 300DPI, without being customized for viewing or
printing. They are mixed portrait and landscape mode.
Pages without *** routes were left out at present.
Sources + Acknowledgements
Lower Lump + Inner Wall
Beetle Bailey Arch
Inner Wall - Left of cave
Tie Me to a Length of That
Great Northern Slab (has easiest routes)
Lower Wall - Left
Dihedral Wall + Shield
Lower Wall - Center, Lower pitches
Lower Wall - Center, Upper pitches
Lower Wall - Right, Lower pitches
Lower Wall - Right, Upper pitches
The Country + trail to Upper Wall
The Country - Center, Lower pitches
The Country - Center, Upper pitches
The Country - Right
Far Left (Earwax)
Green Dragon (1999)
lower Cheeks - Right
Lists + Indices (sample scans)
Routes by Type
Routes by Rating
Lists + Indices (full text)
- route list 521 routes from original 1993 guide
- itw.xls spreadsheet version of route list,
sortable by rating, stars, type, date, name, etc.
- routes by type slab, face, arete, thin crack,
etc. (does not include special lists like "dry on wet days" and
"harder for short people")
- routes by rating
- first ascent and FFA info
Note: the FA and FFA dates from the 1980s may be somewhat inaccurate.
They are based on what was reported to magazines, which was sometimes
well after the route had been climbed, and in some cases before the
climbs had been completed.
- index of route and crag names
- 6/94 - I made some minor changes to the guide; the cover of this
guide says "1993+". The two most interesting changes were probably:
- 377. Town Crier 5.8+ C2+ (clean rating, using cam hooks)
- 504. Rattletale 5.10a/b ** (rating change; averaged correctly now
from ratings survey)
- 9/99 - 374-376. Green Dragon 5.9 C2+ (clean rating).
Brandon Calloway (Asheville, NC) sent me a
He noted that the route goes clean with
cam hooks, 3 regular hook placements, a #1 Lowe Ball, and the occasional
fixed pin and head. They belayed higher on p4 (140' - above a free move
on the bolt ladder), and combined p5 and p6 at 100'.
- 1997 - Chris Schlotfeldt free the remaining aid from Narrow Arrow
Overhang - 5.12d. This involved some difficult stemming in the "C3" section
on the first pitch of the old topo (previously freed at 5.11b),
and then tricky arete slaps in the old "A2" section
just below the 5.12a roof. On his free lead, he led from the ground
to a few moves above the 5.12a roof, where the crack peters out.
Note: apparently other people have freed the old A2 section during the 90s
as well; it was even bolted recently....
Narrow Overhang free topo
- fall/1999 - Chris Schlotfeldt made a pinkpoint free lead (preplaced gear)
of City Park, after working on the route for several years (he also toproped
it free 5 times during that time). This is
the only free repeat of the route that I am aware of, besides
Herr's ascent with special "bladed" "shoes".
City Park free topo
photo of one of Chris' pinkpoint attempts
- spring/2006 - Mike Schaefer made a redpoint lead of City Park.
This was the first redpoint lead. When Todd Skinner first freed it,
some of the pro was left in place from a previous attempt that day.
brief report on cc.com.
Photo in Climbing #250, August 2006.
- 2007 - for folks possibly looking for basic info on the routes, or
routes by type and rating, I have added route lists from the original
1993 guide, with a few ratings corrections as given above. The route names
and first ascent names should
also be available to web searches as well.
Please send any comments or questions to