rev. 2/26/09
Sawtooths Rock Climbs

sources:
topos and photos from The Elephant's Perch store - Ketchum, ID
(copied by myself, Brad Brandewie, and others)
 www.elephantsperch.com
Brad Brandewie's trip reports
cascadeclimbers.com trip reports
summitpost.org
mountainproject.com
google maps
topozone.com (USGS quad topo maps)
Rock & Ice magazine, Climbing magazine
"Idaho: A Climbing Guide", Tom Lopez, 2nd edition, 2000
  (does not have topos or much detail, but has basics)

trail map

Mt. Heyburn

1. Stur Chimney 5.6, 3p, large RFC on west face.  Mostly edges and cracks.
(will add topo)

Super Slab
approach map
photo
topo 1 - Climbing #204
topo 2

2. Hyperspace 5.10, 2-5p
3. Leviathan 5.10a *, 3p
4. Bacon and Legs 5.9 *, 3-5p, polished rock
5. Super Slab - Regular Var. 5.8+, 2-5p
6. Super Slab - Gully Centrale 5.7 *, 5p
7. Catwoman 5.10d *, 10x, 1-3p
 Brad Brandewie's photo trip report
8. Tin Man 5.9+ *, 1-3p

Outside Chance area (drainage NE of Elephant's Perch, approach opp. Super Slab)
(will add topo)

9. Claptrap 5.10, 2p
10. Outside Chance p1 var. 5.10
11. Outside Chance 5.9+, 2p
12. Magic Fingers 5.9+, 3p

The Black Buttress (same drainage)
photo

13. High Anxiety 5.9+, 5p
 topo
 Brad Brandewie's photo trip report

Elephant's Perch
main Elephant's Perch page, with topos and TR links

14. The Breach 5.11
15. Pandemonium Palace 5.11
16. Splittgerber-March Direct 5.10b
17. Pachydermal Pleasantries 5.9 A2, 11p
18. Beyond the Zero 5.9 A3
19. Chasing the Dragon 5.11+ A0
20. Mountaineer's Route 5.9
21. Trunkline 5.10+
22. Wendy 5.10+
23. Route X 5.9 A2
24. Boomer's Story Var. 5.9 A2
25. Boomer's Story 5.9 A2
26. The Thorn Bush 5.9 A3
27. Slipstream 5.10 A3
28. Hook & Ladder 5.9 A3
29. Direct Beckey 5.11a **
30. Original Beckey 5.11+, stemming pitch from Fine Line to Direct Beckey
31. The Fine Line 5.11a ***
32. Fine Line Var. 5.8 A3
33. Lost Horizons 5.10 A2+
34. The Seagull 5.10 A3
35. King's Highway 5.9 A3
36. Myopia 5.11a ***
37. Divine Guidance 5.11- *, quality but runout on hard 5.10
38. Elephant's Eye Var. 5.10+ A3
39. Elephant's Eye 5.10+ A3
40. Astro Elephant 5.10a **
41. Side Line Var. 5.9
42. Sunrise Book 5.12a or 5.10a A1 **

43. EP Arete, first arete S of E Perch
44. The Tusk, second arete S of E Perch

Chipmunk Perch (9840', SW of Elephant's Perch, E of group)
brief route descriptions
(will add topo)

45. The Four Horsemen 5.9, east ridge, 14p
 John Frieh's photo trip report
46. Chipmunk Arete 5.9+ *, north ridge, 9p

Goat Perch (10080', middle of groupe)

47. Goat Perch - North Ridge 5.7 or 5.9, E Face to N Ridge
48. Goat Perch - SW Ridge 5.0

Eagle Perch (9560', W of group)

49. Eagle Perch - North Ridge Direct 5.8
50. Eagle Perch - NW Buttress 5.6

Warbonnet (10200', 8 mile hike from Redfish Lake to Bead Lakes base camp)
outline of ridge with climbs shown

51. Warbonnet - Southwest Ridge 5.4
52. Warbonnet - Southwest Rib 5.9, 8p
 (will add topo)
53. Warbonnet - Southeast Face 5.7, 7 short pitches
 (will add topo)
54. Black Crystal 5.12a, 10p, N face
55. Warbonnet - NE Face A1

56. Energizer Bunny 5.9, 6p, p5 wide hand crux, unnamed peak N of E ridge of Warbonnet

Cirque Lake Peak

57. Cirque Lake Peak - Central Tower - South Rib 5.9, 9p
 topo
 route description summitpost.org

Lion's Head

58. Lion's Head - Southeast Face 5.9
59. Mane Attraction 5.9+

Silicon Tower

60. The Implant 5.10
61. Silicon Tower - Southwest Face 5.9+

Baron Spire (9837', 10 mile, 3100' approach)
summitpost.org
(routes rated to base of summit block, then A2 old 22 bolt ladder to top)

62. Baron Spire - Royalty Ridge 5.10+, SW ridge, many towers, cc.com
63. Baron Spire - S Ridge 5th?, aka Old Smoothie
64. Baron Spire - Summit Block A2, final old bolt ladder is A2, 22x
65. Lawdog's Lament 5.10-, 5p, chimney on SE face, 150' L of SE Face, MP
 (will add overlay photo)
66. Tall Boys and Breakfast Burritos 5.10c A0, 6p, LFC 30' R of Lawdog's Lament, MP
67. Deliverance 5.10c A2, 6p, starts 50' L of SE Face, splitter on prow, MP
68. Baron Spire - SE Face 5.9, 5p
 (will add topo)
69. Baron Spire - E Face 5.9
70. The Destroying Angel 5.11b, North Ridge, 18p, p2 5.11b or aid, 12p are 5.9 or 5.10

71. Bum Rush 5.11a, 5p, E Face of p9211', NE of Baron Spire along ridge, MP

Baron Falls Tower (8960', N of Baron Spire, W of p9211)

72. Carpal Tunnel 5.11- A0, 6p, cc.com
 (will add overlay photo)
73. Baron Falls Tower - W Face 5.10, 7p, 2p chimney then right

Finger of Fate - Lower East Buttress
approach map
East Buttress topo

74. FFE A 5.9, 3p
75. FFE B 5.9, 3p
76. FFE C 5.11+, 3p
77. FFE D 5.10, 3p

Finger of Fate - North Face (900' monolith)
route descriptions for North Face routes

78. The Open Book 5.8+ ***, 6p. 4p up corners on north face, hand/finger crack,
arete, tunnel under summit block.
 Open Book topo
 Brad Brandewie's photo trip report
79. Tiptoe 5.10-, 2p, very thin cracks in corner, hand crack, joins Open Book
80. Feelin' Free 5.9, 2p, wide crack through roof, LFC to notch
81. Bino's Book 5.9, 2p, awkward layback in groove to finger crack, to W ridge
82. Drizzlepuss 5.8, 2p up farthest right book, exit in diagonal crack/chimney
(Dorworth-Poulsen is 75' right of Open Book, has roof, hand crack)

Arrowhead (80' tower, 15' wide at base)

83. Arrowhead - West Face 5.9, straight-in cracks and small corners
(will add topo)

Mt. Cramer (SW of Finger of Fate, can approach 6-8 miles from Redfish Lake)

84. The Only Dance There Is 5.10+, 13p, on NW Face
85. Mt Cramer - North Face 5.11a C2, 6p, cc.com