The lower East Buttress is the face visible from Hell Roaring Lake and from most of the approach. There are at least 4 climbs on this cliff. Two climbs follow the most obvious dihedrals and the other two ascend the cracks and slabs to the left.
The most commonly climbed routes are on the North Face. This face is visible mainly in profile on most of the approach until one curves around and looks back from the North or Northeast.
The Book III 5.8
The most popular climb on the Finger. This route follows the
obvious and longest open book on the North Face. After 3 pitches
in the dihedral, scramble up and right to a notch. Move right
from the notch and climb the improbable looking but easy (5.7)
twin cracks which are right of the chimney. After the twin
finger/hand cracks, friction up and left (no pro) for 30-35 feet
to a belay underneath the summit blocks. Crawl underneath the
blocks, walk out a ledge, then cross over to the East side of the
summit block. From this final notch, hand traverse right, then
pull onto the summit.
The next 4 routes are all accessed by 3rd classing up to a ledge about 100 feet above the ground, at the base of the North Face.
Tiptoe II 5.10-
Traverse out the approach ledge as far as possible (may
want to rope up). Stay left of the wide crack going through the roof
(Feelin' Free) as you ascend very thin cracks in a dihedral.
The second pitch follows a hand crack to the base of the twin cracks
of the Book route.
Feelin' Free II 5.9
Head toward a small roof with a wide crack going through it.
Climb through the roof (not as hard as it appears). Follow a
left facing book from here to the notch.
Bino's Book II 5.9
Start up an obvious dihedral to the right of Feelin' Free.
An awkward layback in a groove finishes in a finger crack.
Approximately 2 pitches bring one to the West ridge and the summit block.
Drizzlepuss II 5.8
The farthest right book on the North face. Two pitches up this
book and you approach the West ridge. About 30 feet below the ridge,
climb the crack that diagonals right. At the top of the crack
work your way into the chimney. Go along it horizontally and
exit onto the East face.