Connecticut Traprock (Ragged Mountain, etc.) Rock Climbs

This area is located south of Hartford, Connecticut, roughly between Southington and Meriden. The rock quality is usually quite good. I've helped to produce some of the guidebooks to this area in the past: These guidebooks (when in print) may be difficult to find in local stores, because Ken Nichols has been involved in some controversial actions in the past, and I believe local shop managers have wanted to express their disapproval. It's rather ironic, as Ken has devoted much of the past 25 years of his life to Connecticut climbing.

In recent years, the controversies seem to have degenerated into a feud between Ken and other local climbers, which has cast an unfortunate negative shadow onto Connecticut climbing in general. I'm tempted to provide a chronology of the problems, so that people can get an understanding of what has happened. But I'm afraid that it might further polarize the factions and prevent a long-needed resolution of the conflicts.

In spite of these political problems, the climbing itself is great, and can even be enjoyed during the winter, on the east and south faces during frequent sunny days. The rock type is "traprock" which is a combination of basalt, dolerite and gabbro. Mt. Arapiles in Australia is the same type of rock.

Some people have remarked that the ratings are a bit stiff compared to some other areas in the US. This can be partly explained since the climbs are rated by the "easiest known way" to do the route, rather than an "onsight" type rating which would consider the "likely attempted way". The rock is steep and the holds are often inobvious or hard to locate, so there can be a big difference between the two types of ratings.

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Please send any comments or questions to Clint Cummins clint@leland.stanford.edu.