rev. 2/11/07
Bugaboos route list

compiled by Clint Cummins, mostly using the Benson-Green 1990
guidebook, J.F. Garden's "The Bugaboos: an alpine history",
plus web reports from Gripped magazine, Climbing magazine,
AAlpinist magazine, AAJ, and elsewhere.
Routes are listed from left to right on each formation.



North Howser Tower (11150')

1. North Howser - East Face - South Ridge 4th
2. North Howser - East Face - North Ridge 5.4
3. North Howser - East Ridge - North Ridge 5.4
4. North Howser - North Ridge Integral 5.4 **
5. North Howser - Northwest Face 5.8 A2
6. North Howser - West Buttress 5.7 A2
7. All Along the Watchtower 5.12a *, 23p, 9p of Warrior, L, 800' 5.11, 30' crux
8. Armageddon 5.11+ A2, RFC, 10' of aid, 7p of Warrior, to RFC and huge dike
9. Warrior 5.9 A3, 20p
10. Mescalito 5.9 A3
11. Spicy Red Beans and Rice 5.12a, start on p2 of Seventh Rifle, L chimney+wide
12. Seventh Rifle 5.11b, 34p, chimneys, loose rock
13. The Shooting Gallery 5.10 A2+, 23p, starts 600' R of Seventh Rifle
14. Young Men on Fire 5.11 A4, 26p, Climbing #153, p.72-75, start 40' R of SG
15. Hey Kool-Aid 5.11+, 8p start to Young Men on Fire, many wides
16. North Howser - Southwest Face 5.7 A2

Central Howser Tower

17. Central Howser - North Ridge 5.3
18. Central Howser - East Face 5.7, 5p
19. Central Howser - South Ridge 5.8 C3, 5p
20. Chocolate Fudge Brownie 5.9 A2, west face, starts with 3p of FoD, then L
21. Fear and Desire 5.9 A3+, west face
22. Spinstone Gully TD+ (M7), between Central and South, from west side

South Howser Tower

23. South Howser - East Ridge Integral 5.8 A1, 8p to join EFR, (N. Howser?)
24. South Howser - East Face-Ridge 5.6 A1 **, 7p
25. South Howser - East Face var. 5.8, 2-4p to join EFR
26. Thompson-Turk 5.10 R, 7p, 150m LFC, alt. rap route
27. South Howser - Northeast Face 5.7 A2, now the standard rap route (6 raps)
28. Perma Grin TD- (M5 WI4), 6p, ice smears on NE Face, not sure of rel. loc.
29. The Big Hose D+ (M4 WI3), 700' ice climb, nice when in condition
30. South Howser - Northeast Buttress 5.10, 2p ice, 7p rock, finish on N face
31. South Howser - North Face-Ridge 5.6 A2, 8-9p
32. Beckey-Chouinard 5.10a ***, 20p
33. Lost in the Talus 5.11-, 5p direct start to B-C, on featured wall to right
34. Lost in the Towers 5.10 A1 **, 15p
35. Catalonian Route 5.11 R, 20p, 2 spicy 5.11 pitches with RPs for crux pitch
36. Soul Cinders 5.11 R C2, 20p, steep chimney system bet. Catalonian + Minaret

Minaret

37. Minaret - West Face 5.10+, 11-13p, not sure if completed
38. Bad Hair Day 5.12a, 18p, 3p on WF, R trav. to IP, R, crux roof, 5.10+ ow
39. Bad Italian Hair 5.12a, new 5.10 start to BHD, then joins Italian Pillar
40. Italian Pillar 5.11+, 14p, free variation starts from left to avoid A4 p1
41. Martin-Smith 5.11 A2
42. Doubting the Millenium 5.10 A3, 1200' to join SW Pillar
43. Minaret - Southwest Pillar 5.12 R/X, 21p, usually wet, preplaced heads + pins
44. Cameron's Pillar 5.11+, 1500', Alpinist 2
45. Minaret - South Face 5.8 A2, 9p, location unclear

Pigeonfeathers (9650')

46. Pigeonfeathers West - East Face 5.4
47. Ride the Snafflehound 5.10, 6p, on NW rib of East Pigeonfeather
48. Prince Albert Spire - Dingleberry Spam 5.10, 5p, between E and SE PF
49. Wild Fire 5.11+, 11p, NW face of Wide Awake Tower
50. Wide Awake 5.10 A2, south side of SE peak
51. Solitary Confinement 5.11, 6p, straight widening crack, not sure of rel.loc.
52. ICU 5.11+, 4p, ow and roof, L side of 300' Peek-A-Boo Pinnacle
53. Peek-A-Boo 5.11+, 4p, overhanging finger crack, R side, behind Fingerberry
54. Lost Feather - Back at Bob's 5.10 A2, wide pitches to corner below summit
55. Lost Feather 5.10 A3, 10p
56. Lost Feather - new free route, new 6p var. start to Lost Feather

Pigeon Spire (10250')

57. Pigeontoe - West Summit 5.4
58. Miller-Shepard 5.6, 6p, NE ridge
59. Pigeon - North Face 5.7 A2, 7p
60. Wingtip 5.10- *, 6p, ow crux
61. Pigeon - Northwest Face 5.7 A3, 6p
62. Feather Fallout 5.7 A2, 6p
63. Tailfeather Pinnacle - Right Side 5.10-, 4p
64. Pigeon - West Ridge 5.4 ***
65. Lambice Tour 5.8, 5p
66. Parboosingh Route 5.5, 8p
67. Pigeon - South Face 5.6 A1
68. Southeast Buttress var. 5.6 A0
69. Southeast Buttress 5.8 A2
70. Cleopatra's Alley 5.12a **, 13p
71. Pigeon - East Face 5.10-, 17p, often wet, nice when dry

Snowpatch Spire (10050')

72. Snowpatch - South Face Left 5.8 A3, poor rock, joins SW ridge at Surf's Up
73. ASTA
74. This Monkey's Gone to Heaven 5.6 A4, 12p, starts 30' R of ASTA
75. Snowpatch - South Face Direct 5.11+ R, 9p to join upper part, sustained
76. Snowpatch - South Face - Upper Section 5.11, 7p
77. Lightning Bolt Crack 5.10, 3p, LFC, 9, 10 undercling, 10
78. Snowpatch - SE Corner - Direct Finish 5.9
79. Snowpatch - Southeast Corner 5.6 ***, 16p
80. Beckey-Mather 5.7 A2, 17p
81. Arbos-Clotet 5.10a A3, 600m
82. Snowpatch - East Face Diagonal 5.7 A3
83. In Harm's Way 5.8 A4
84. Deux ex Machina 5.9 A2, 17p
85. Deux ex Machina var. 5.10+
86. Parker-Brashaw 5.9 A1
87. Sunshine Wall 5.10- **, 11p, upper chimney system
88. Warrior Way, LFC
89. Hockey Night in Jersey 5.9 A3, starts 100' R of Warrior Way
90. Sweet Sylvia 5.12b, start 2p on Tom Eagan, then left to 400' ow, AAJ
91. Tom Eagan Memorial 5.9 A3 **, 13p
92. The Power of Lard 5.13, 7p, 1.5p Tom Eagan to p6 of HH, 8 12b 11c 11b _ 13
93. White Ducks in Space 5.7 A3
94. Hobo's Haven 5.7 A4, 6p
95. Bugaboo Corner 5.10- ***, 12p, ow to chimneys, joins Parker-Brashaw
96. Banshee 5.10 **, 9p, 9+ ow
97. Sunshine 5.10+ ***, 9p, 9+ ow
98. Dark Side of the Sun A4, 2p
99. Buckingham Route 5.6 A2
100. Buckingham rappel var.
101. Gran-Hudson 5.7 A2, 8p
102. Quasimodo 5.9 A1, 10p
103. Flamingo Fling 5.9 **, 8p
104. Snowpatch - North Summit Direct 5.11+ ***, 7p
105. Tower Arete 5.10- A2 **, 8p
106. Tam-Tam Boom-Boom Pili-Pili 5.11 A1, 7p
107. Beckey-Greenwood 5.7 A2, 6p
108. Beckey-Rowell 5.8 A4, 9p
109. Wildflowers 5.9 **, 6p, shady and sometimes wet
110. Kraus-McCarthy 5.8+, 8p
111. Furry Pink 5.10c **, 8p
112. Which Way 5.10c **, 8p, joins Furry Pink
113. Rock the Casbah 5.9, 7p
114. Degringolade 5.9+, 8p
115. Attack of the Killer Chipmunks 5.9, 6p
116. Snowpatch - Southwest Ridge Left Finish 5.9
117. Snowpatch - Southwest Ridge Middle Finish 5.9 **, aka Surf's Up
118. Snowpatch - Southwest Ridge Right Finish 5.9 **
119. The Beach 5.10+ A1, indirect start to SW ridge, crumbly ow

Bugaboo Spire (10450')

120. Bugaboo - Kain Left var. 5.8
121. Bugaboo - Kain Route 5.6 ***, 4p plus class 4
122. Bugaboo - Kain Right var. 5.8
123. Herr2 5.10, 10p, loose rock on lower section
124. Cooper-Gran 5.11, 12p
125. Symposium 5.8 A2+, 8p diag. system, then joins Cooper-Gran, rockfall hazard
126. Midnight Route 5.9 A3, 10p
127. Divine Intervention 5.11b, 9p, somewhere on E face
128. Pretty Vacant 5.9 A2
129. Bugaboo - Northeast Ridge 5.7 ***, 6p plus approach, traverse and descent
130. Bugaboo - North Face Direct 5.10 A1
131. Bugaboo - North Face 5.7 A1
132. Bugaboo - West Face 5.4, 13p, version of WFD direct to summit
133. Bugaboo - West Face Direct 5.4 A2, joins Kain route

Crescent Spire (9350')

134. Crescent - West Ridge 5.2, 2p to Bugaboo-Crescent col, then easy
135. Crescent - Southwest Gully 4th
136. WIMTA (Who is McTech Anyway?) 5.10b, 5p
137. Paddle Flake 5.10b *, 6p
138. Crescent - Left Dihedral 5.8 A2, 5p
139. Roof McTech 5.10, 2p
140. Energy Crisis 5.11c **, 2p
141. McTech Arete 5.10a **, 6p, bolted rappel route to left
142. McTech Direct 5.9, 2p, offwidth
143. McTech Right 5.10a **, 3p
144. Wosa Moya 5.10a *, 6p
145. Surprisingly Subsevere 5.10a, 6p
146. Crescent - Southeast Slopes 4th
147. Crescent - Northeast Ridge 4th

North Crescent Tower (9000')

148. North Crescent - North Ridge 4th
149. North Crescent - NW Ridge - SW Gully Right 4th

Central Crescent Towers (9000')

150. Central Crescent - SW Gully 4th
151. Lion's Way 5.6 **, 7p
152. Tiger's Tail 5.9, 4p

Donkey's Ears - South Crescent Towers (9000')

153. Thatcher Cracker 5.10 X, 6p, p6 is 30' 5.10 stem corner, no pro
154. Ears Between 5.7 *, 6p

Eastpost Spire (8850')

155. Eastpost - West Face Left 5.8, loose in middle section
156. Eastpost - Shelton Route 5.10b, 4p, 3 are 5.10
157. Flaming Hack 5.11d, R of Shelton p3
158. Classic Grit 5.10-, 6p, W face, just R of center, start in 5.7 LFC
159. Eastpost - South Face Left 5.7 A3, 3p
160. Eastpost - South Face 5.6 A2, 6p, has rotten corner
161. Eastpost - Southeast Ridge Direct 5.5
162. Eastpost - Upper Southeast Ridge 4th
163. Eastpost - East Face 4th

Applebee Dome

164. Dislocation 5.6, 5p on south buttress

Northpost Spire

165. Northpost - Northwest Face 5.6, lesser quality rock
166. Northpost - Northwest Face - West Side 5.5
167. Northpost - Southeast Face Left 5.10 A1
168. Northpost - Southeast Face Right 5.10+, note: ratings may be swapped