rev. 3/06/09
Bugaboos route list

compiled by Clint Cummins, mostly using the Benson-Green 1990
guidebook, J.F. Garden's "The Bugaboos: an alpine history",
plus web reports from Gripped magazine, Climbing magazine,
AAlpinist magazine, AAJ, and elsewhere.
A few routes added from Atkinson-Piche' guidebook; more still to add.
Routes are listed from left to right on each formation.



North Howser Tower (11150')

1. North Howser - East Face - South Ridge 4th
2. North Howser - East Face - North Ridge 5.4
3. North Howser - East Ridge - North Ridge 5.4
4. North Howser - North Ridge Integral 5.4 **
5. North Howser - Northwest Face 5.8 A2
6. North Howser - West Buttress 5.7 A2
7. All Along the Watchtower 5.12a *, 23p, 9p of Warrior, L, 800' 5.11, 30' crux
8. Armageddon 5.11+ A2, RFC, 10' of aid, 7p of Warrior, to RFC and huge dike
9. Warrior 5.9 A3, 20p
10. Mescalito 5.9 A3
11. Spicy Red Beans and Rice 5.12a, start on p2 of Seventh Rifle, L chimney+wide
12. Seventh Rifle 5.11b, 34p, chimneys, loose rock
13. The Shooting Gallery 5.10 A2+, 23p, starts 600' R of Seventh Rifle
14. Young Men on Fire 5.11 A4, 26p, Climbing #153, p.72-75, start 40' R of SG
15. Hey Kool-Aid 5.11+, 8p start to Young Men on Fire, many wides
16. North Howser - Southwest Face 5.7 A2

Central Howser Tower

17. Central Howser - North Ridge 5.3
18. Central Howser - East Face 5.7, 5p
19. Central Howser - South Ridge 5.8 C3, 5p
20. Chocolate Fudge Brownie 5.9 A2, west face, starts with 3p of FoD, then L
21. Fear and Desire 5.9 A3+, west face
22. Spinstone Gully TD+ (M7), between Central and South, from west side

South Howser Tower

23. South Howser - East Ridge Integral 5.8 A1, 8p to join EFR, (N. Howser?)
24. South Howser - East Face-Ridge 5.6 A1 **, 7p
25. South Howser - East Face var. 5.8, 2-4p to join EFR
26. Thompson-Turk 5.10 R, 7p, 150m LFC, alt. rap route
27. South Howser - Northeast Face 5.7 A2, now the standard rap route (6 raps)
28. Perma Grin TD- (M5 WI4), 6p, ice smears on NE Face, not sure of rel. loc.
29. The Big Hose D+ (M4 WI3), 700' ice climb, nice when in condition
30. South Howser - Northeast Buttress 5.10, 2p ice, 7p rock, finish on N face
31. South Howser - North Face-Ridge 5.6 A2, 8-9p
32. Beckey-Chouinard 5.10a ***, 20p
33. Lost in the Talus 5.11-, 5p direct start to B-C, on featured wall to right
34. Lost in the Towers 5.10 A1 **, 15p
35. Catalonian Route 5.11 R, 20p, 2 spicy 5.11 pitches with RPs for crux pitch
36. Soul Cinders 5.11 R C2, 20p, steep chimney system bet. Catalonian + Minaret

Minaret

37. Minaret - West Face 5.10+, 11-13p, not sure if completed
38. Bad Hair Day 5.12a, 18p, 3p on WF, R trav. to IP, R, crux roof, 5.10+ ow
39. Bad Italian Hair 5.12a, new 5.10 start to BHD, then joins Italian Pillar
40. Italian Pillar 5.11+, 14p, free variation starts from left to avoid A4 p1
41. Martin-Smith 5.11 A2
42. Doubting the Millenium 5.10 A3, 1200' to join SW Pillar
43. Minaret - Southwest Pillar 5.12 R/X, 21p, usually wet, preplaced heads + pins
44. Cameron's Pillar 5.11+, 1500', Alpinist 2
45. Minaret - South Face 5.8 A2, 9p, location unclear

Pigeonfeathers (9650')

46. Pigeonfeathers West - East Face 5.4
47. Ride the Snafflehound 5.10, 6p, on NW rib of East Pigeonfeather
48. Prince Albert Spire - Dingleberry Spam 5.10, 5p, between E and SE PF
49. Wild Fire 5.11+, 11p, NW face of Wide Awake Tower
50. Wide Awake 5.10 A2, south side of SE peak
51. Solitary Confinement 5.11, 6p, straight widening crack, not sure of rel.loc.
52. ICU 5.11+, 4p, ow and roof, L side of 300' Peek-A-Boo Pinnacle
53. Peek-A-Boo 5.11+, 4p, overhanging finger crack, R side, behind Fingerberry
54. Lost Feather - Back at Bob's 5.10 A2, wide pitches to corner below summit
55. Lost Feather 5.10 A3, 10p
56. Lost Feather - new free route, new 6p var. start to Lost Feather

Pigeon Spire (10250')

57. Pigeontoe - West Summit 5.4
58. Miller-Shepard 5.6, 6p, NE ridge
59. Pigeon - North Face 5.7 A2, 7p
60. Wingtip 5.10- *, 6p, ow crux
61. Pigeon - Northwest Face 5.7 A3, 6p
62. Feather Fallout 5.7 A2, 6p
63. Tailfeather Pinnacle - Right Side 5.10-, 4p
64. Pigeon - West Ridge 5.4 ***
65. Lambice Tour 5.8, 5p
66. Parboosingh Route 5.5, 8p
67. Pigeon - South Face 5.6 A1
68. Southeast Buttress var. 5.6 A0
69. Southeast Buttress 5.8 A2
70. Cleopatra's Alley 5.12a **, 13p
71. Pigeon - East Face 5.10-, 17p, often wet, nice when dry

Snowpatch Spire (10050')

72. Snowpatch - South Face Left 5.8 A3, poor rock, joins SW ridge at Surf's Up
73. ASTA
74. This Monkey's Gone to Heaven 5.6 A4, 12p, starts 30' R of ASTA
75. Snowpatch - South Face Direct 5.11+ R, 9p to join upper part, sustained
76. Snowpatch - South Face - Upper Section 5.11, 7p
77. Lightning Bolt Crack 5.10, 3p, LFC, 9, 10 undercling, 10
78. Snowpatch - SE Corner - Direct Finish 5.9
79. Snowpatch - Southeast Corner 5.6 ***, 16p
80. Beckey-Mather 5.7 A2, 17p
81. Vertical Party 5.10a A3, 600m
82. Snowpatch - East Face Diagonal 5.7 A3
83. In Harm's Way 5.8 A4
84. Deus ex Machina 5.9 A2, 17p
85. Deus ex Machina var. 5.10+
86. Les Bruixes Es Pentinen 5.10+ A3, 12p
87. Parker-Brashaw 5.9 A1
88. Sunshine Wall 5.10- **, 11p, upper chimney system
89. Warrior Way 5.10- A2, 4p LFC, joins Tom Eagan Memorial, MP
90. Hockey Night in Jersey 5.9 A3, starts 100' R of Warrior Way
91. Sweet Sylvia 5.12b, start 2p on Tom Eagan, then left to 400' ow, AAJ
92. Tom Eagan Memorial 5.9 A3 **, 13p
93. The Power of Lard 5.13, 7p, 1.5p Tom Eagan to p6 of HH, 8 12b 11c 11b _ 13
94. White Ducks in Space 5.7 A3
95. Hobo's Haven 5.7 A4, 6p
96. Bugaboo Corner 5.10- ***, 12p, ow to chimneys, joins Parker-Brashaw
97. Banshee 5.10 **, 9p, 9+ ow
98. Sunshine 5.10+ ***, 9p, 9+ ow
99. Dark Side of the Sun A4, 2p
100. Buckingham Route 5.6 A2
101. Buckingham rappel var.
102. Gran-Hudson 5.7 A2, 8p
103. Quasimodo 5.9 A1, 10p
104. Flamingo Fling 5.9 **, 8p
105. Snowpatch - North Summit Direct 5.11+ ***, 7p
106. Tower Arete 5.10- A2 **, 8p
107. Tam-Tam Boom-Boom Pili-Pili 5.11 A1, 7p
108. Beckey-Greenwood 5.7 A2, 6p
109. Beckey-Rowell 5.8 A4, 9p
110. Wildflowers 5.9 **, 6p, shady and sometimes wet
111. Kraus-McCarthy 5.8+, 8p
112. Furry Pink 5.10c **, 8p
113. Which Way 5.10c **, 8p, joins Furry Pink
114. Rock the Casbah 5.9, 7p
115. Degringolade 5.9+, 8p
116. Attack of the Killer Chipmunks 5.9, 6p
117. Snowpatch - Southwest Ridge Left Finish 5.9
118. Snowpatch - Southwest Ridge Middle Finish 5.9 **, aka Surf's Up
119. Snowpatch - Southwest Ridge Right Finish 5.9 **
120. The Beach 5.10+ A1, indirect start to SW ridge, crumbly ow

Bugaboo Spire (10450')

121. Bugaboo - Kain Left var. 5.8
122. Bugaboo - Kain Route 5.6 ***, 4p plus class 4
123. Bugaboo - Kain Right var. 5.8
124. Herr2 5.10, 10p, loose rock on lower section
125. Cooper-Gran 5.11, 12p
126. Symposium 5.8 A2+, 8p diag. system, then joins Cooper-Gran, rockfall hazard
127. Midnight Route 5.9 A3, 10p
128. Divine Intervention 5.11b, 9p, somewhere on E face
129. Vacant and Obscure 5.10
130. Pretty Vacant 5.9 A2
131. Bugaboo - Northeast Ridge 5.7 ***, 6p plus approach, traverse and descent
132. Bugaboo - North Face Direct 5.10 A1
133. Bugaboo - North Face 5.7 A1
134. Bugaboo - West Face 5.4, 13p, version of WFD direct to summit
135. Bugaboo - West Face Direct 5.4 A2, joins Kain route

Crescent Spire (9350')

136. Crescent - West Ridge 5.2, 2p to Bugaboo-Crescent col, then easy
137. Crescent - Southwest Gully 4th
138. WIMTA (Who is McTech Anyway?) 5.10b, 5p
139. Paddle Flake 5.10b *, 6p
140. Crescent - Left Dihedral 5.8 A2, 5p
141. Roof McTech 5.10, 2p
142. Energy Crisis 5.11c **, 2p
143. McTech Arete 5.10a **, 6p, bolted rappel route to left
144. McTech Direct 5.9, 2p, offwidth
145. McTech Right 5.10a **, 3p
146. Wosa Moya 5.10a *, 6p
147. Surprisingly Subsevere 5.10a, 6p
148. Crescent - Southeast Slopes 4th
149. Crescent - Northeast Ridge 4th

North Crescent Tower (9000')

150. North Crescent - North Ridge 4th
151. North Crescent - NW Ridge - SW Gully Right 4th

Central Crescent Towers (9000')

152. Central Crescent - SW Gully 4th
153. Lion's Way 5.6 **, 7p
154. Tiger's Tail 5.9, 4p

Donkey's Ears - South Crescent Towers (9000')

155. Thatcher Cracker 5.10 X, 6p, p6 is 30' 5.10 stem corner, no pro
156. Ears Between 5.7 *, 6p

Eastpost Spire (8850')

157. Eastpost - West Face Left 5.8, loose in middle section
158. Eastpost - Shelton Route 5.10b, 4p, 3 are 5.10
159. Flaming Hack 5.11d, R of Shelton p3
160. Classic Grit 5.10-, 6p, W face, just R of center, start in 5.7 LFC
161. Eastpost - South Face Left 5.7 A3, 3p
162. Eastpost - South Face 5.6 A2, 6p, has rotten corner
163. Eastpost - Southeast Ridge Direct 5.5
164. Eastpost - Upper Southeast Ridge 4th
165. Eastpost - East Face 4th

Applebee Dome

166. Dislocation 5.6, 5p on south buttress

Northpost Spire

167. Northpost - Northwest Face 5.6, lesser quality rock
168. Northpost - Northwest Face - West Side 5.5
169. Northpost - Southeast Face Left 5.10 A1
170. Northpost - Southeast Face Right 5.10+, note: ratings may be swapped