Mickey's Beach                rev. 9/10/07

New routes, ratings and stars from Tresa Black's "Rock Climbing in the
San Francisco Bay Area".
First ascent corrections from Jim Thornburg, 9/07 - thanks!


East Face

1. unknown E 5.11c R **, 3x to 2x anchor, face left of corner, crux at top
2. Corner Route 5.10b R *, 2x to 3x anchor, 50'
3. Walk a Thin Line 5.10c R ***, 5x to 3x anchor
4. Pelicans 5.12a *, 6x to 2x anchor, starts on WaTL then out right
5. Holy Mackerel 5.13a **, 7x
6. Wet Dreams 5.12c/d **, 8x, start on 3x of HM, then right, to DoWP anchor

North Face

7. Dreams of White Porsches 5.13b **, 7x, overhanging arete
8. Dream On 5.13b, 7x, start on 4x of DoWP, then right to Insomnia
9. Insomnia 5.13b **, 7x, 2x start, next 2x on DoWP, then right
10. Mickey's Beach Arete 5.13b **, 7x, start on 1x of NaD, drilled pocket halfway up, low tide

West Face (ocean face - low tide)

11. Naked and Disfigured 5.12d ***, 8x, first crux halfway, then technical stemming
12. Mutiny 5.13a *, 8x
13. Hot Tuna 5.12a *, 5x to cold shuts, 1x on Mutiny, then right
14. Cold Tuna 5.12a TR **, direct to HT anchors, aka Sharkey's Machine
15. Motion in the Ocean 5.12d *, 7x, to Gidget anchor
16. Gidget's Motion 5.12b ***, 5x, 3x on Gidget, then 2x on Motion
17. Gidget Meets the Turgid Sea Monster 5.12d **, 5x
18. Sturgeon 5.13a? **, 6x to 1x anchor, 1x on Nancy, crux at 2/3, hold broke recently
19. Scurvy aka Rock Lobster 5.12c/d **, 8x to Sturgeon anchor, 4x on Nancy, 4x left
20. Courtney 5.12a, 6x, 4x on Nancy, 2x straight up
21. Nancy 5.11d **, 6x to 3x anchor, just north of the arete

South Face (low tide)

22. Squid Vicious 5.13a **, 5x to Nancy anchor, 2x to 3x on Sex Porpoises
23. Sex Porpoises 5.12c ***, 5x to Nancy anchor, staple bolts

Grey Slab

24. Rust Never Sleeps 5.10a **, 2x to 3x anchor, optional gear, 40'
25. unknown GS 5.9 *, 2x, start 1x on RNS

Peeper Rock

26. Peeper - East Face 5.9+, 2x, short steep face, 24'

The Egg (near Steep Ravine cabins, .5 mile S of Mickey's Beach)

East Face

27. Egg Face 5.9 **, 2x to 1x anchor
28. unknown EE 5.6 **, 2x to Egg Face anchor

North Face

29. Egghead 5.11b ***, 6x, a boulder slid under the start, easier but slightly less safe now
30. Bad luck streak in Dancing School 5.12a TR *, 2x on Egghead, then right, aka Junglework
31. This is Your Brain on Drugs 5.12b ***, 7x
32. Sign Language 5.10c ***, 8x, low tide

West Face

33. Sunnyside Up 5.11a *, 7x, crux start, low tide
34. Shell Shock 5.12c **, 6x to SU anchor, V6 start, stick clip, low tide

California Slab

35. CS left a 5.7
36. CS left b 5.10a
37. CS Main Crack 5.9, 80'
38. CS Offwidth 5.9

Endless Bummer Rock (pullout 1.1 miles S of MB lot, hike down ridge)

39. Endless Bummer 5.13b **, 7x, very overhanging
40. Surf Safari 5.14a **, 7x, very overhanging